Jon, I wasn't too sure how you would react to the modified/replaced A units.
The Panhard Rods would be a good Roadster and Plus 8 club.
No problem, I admire most with the tenacity & spannering skills to have a go, I even admit to my brother and I undertaking some serious non-pc Mini mods & customisations back in the 80's
There are quite a few supercharged A Series in Mini's and some of the yoof like the Hyabusa implants, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnLorSxNSuI , personally not for me but if it keeps classics alive with the younger generation, that's good
Excellent - that is totally mental thanks for sharing it Jon
Thanks for that John, that really is a monster and that number of containers take some getting your head around. It would be very interesting to know what they value the cargo at from the Bill of lading for Insurance purposes.
Looking great Gordon .... how long before she's afloat? ..... bit of a pain on the part of the moorings .... hopefully you can come up with a solution .... look forward to pics of your first cruise!! 🙂
Ps Dumb but willing help still on offer if needed 👍
Just to add to the confusion here... my car died post IoM trip while en route to Lancaster for Phil to sort out the Centa spline issue. I had assumed it was the regulator but in the rain / Liverpool traffic I had not noticed any warning light (or monitored the charge). Power loss was total (all electrics, engine).
After a while on the hard shoulder the battery had recovered enough to run the hazard lights for a short while.
Phil reports the regulator (original) is working OK with a slightly low (<14v) output, and the battery charged up fine on the Li CTEK (starting the engine a few times without a run).
The battery is a Li based one, so can't blame Exide or lead acid issues! The mystery continues...
I don't think that using a stethoscope is the best way to determine the area of your engine that you think the noise is emanating from. Try using a screwdriver by placing the blade end on the point where you suspect the problem is, and with the handle of the screwdriver up against your ear you can adjust re-position of the blade until you pinpoint exactly where the noise is strongest
I find it works best with the screwdriver handle not against the ear but pressed onto the bone immediately in front of the ear and closing the ear canal to airborne sound.
Everything in the press allowing market manipulation seems to be the current fashion. Not certain the broad sharing of the weaknesses of various economies is a good thing. Who needs James Bond when you have the FT.
I would still recommend isolating the rectifier to see whether whether the fuse still blows. Disconnect the rectifier multiway plug and also temporarily remove the thick cable from the red terminal post just in front of the oil tank. It's a quick and easy test and will either point the finger at or exonerate the rectifier.
Must need my eyesight checking Andy but having spent time searching for other end of the tenth red wire coded R80 on schematic, I found it immediately after your suggestion .
Sincere apologies Vitaloni but it routes directly to voltage regulator of alternator. I'm pretty sure if you disconnect just this cable, which appears to terminate in a 10mm eyelet, you will find a dead short at the regulator/rectifier it connects to. A replacement 50 amp fuse shouldn't blow then by way of confirmation.
If so and given unreliability of this component, a full replacement with I believe the recommended HD unit is the way to go, even if it's found to be just chaffed wiring at regulator.
Yes Roger. My rear board is not nor was coach bolted down so did jump. That rear bolt with the tang on it, is a cap head M6 screwed into an insert, that is screwed & epoxy’d into the board, rather than a counter sunk coach bolt.(original) The fittings are marine grade stainless steel. I have placed some closed cell foam under the tangs to allow some give. Hopefully the inserts will not pull out. Just for info, apparently the Accoya wood does not need protection. Well according to the yard that supplied it.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. It definitely isn't the sidescreen/frame interface, I've already resolved that one. And it's the same with sidescreens on or off. The noise is actually more like a "creaking floorboard", and I reckon it's the junction between the glass and the lower part of the chromed frame. The ony photo I could find is on GoMog, I have highlighted the area where the noise seems to be coming from. I may try some "flowable" silicone sealer to see if that lubricates or generally improves matters.
Peter, in the area you've marked the scuttle crash pad that ultimately gets trimmed in leather often touches to 'screen frame, try pushing something like thin cardboard between and test again
An interesting and unusual offering.... 1959-facel-vega-excellence I have never heard of the car but it has an interesting history as per this inclusion in the auction commentary. I knew Camus was killed in a car accident but not the details "Facel Vega is the symbol of the French sporty and luxurious automobile. But it is also the car in which the writer Albert Camus and his publisher Michel Gallimard lost their lives. January 4, 1960, national road 5 between Sens and Fontainebleau, the powerful Facel Vega FV3B of 355 horsepower that drives at high speed, hits a tree on the side of the road and then bounces on a second plane tree. Under the violence of the shock, the car literally dislocated and the chassis twisted against the tree. A flat tire is then implicated"