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Leaf Springs & the Frame #555298
22/01/19 09:07 AM
22/01/19 09:07 AM
Heel_Board_Contact.jpg
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 594
I
IcePack Online content OP
Talk Morgan Regular
Leaf Springs & the Frame

Expand image & you can see the telltale mark.
11 Comments
Re: Leaf Springs & the Frame [Re: IcePack] #612382
14/01/20 08:53 AM
14/01/20 08:53 AM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 355
Cotswolds
P
PJB Offline
Learner Plates Off!
PJB  Offline
Learner Plates Off!
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 355
Cotswolds
Much of this already covered. But here goes:-
The four leaf springs for the 4 seaters are the same rate/stiffness as the springs for the 2 seaters so will ride the same, but the 4 seater springs just have more camber so they sit higher. Indeed there should be around 10mm clearance between the axle and the rebound rubber that is on the chassis unladen, depending on powertrain etc.
Leaf springs should be flat at laden ride height, that is how they are designed to be, as they then have maximum lateral stiffness, so reducing the need for a Panhard Rod.
Bump stops on the rear (& front) dampers are essential, the AVOs often come with no bump stops. Easy to add, either remove the top eye and slip them on or split you bump stop with a clean knife, coat cut surfaces with 'superglue' then push them over the damper rod and wrap them in that rubber self amalgamating tape. OK the loads through the damper bracket on the hub will increase and the early ones were not that robust. Check for cracks anyway.
To check for sagged leaf springs; jack under the exact middle of the front lower chassis cross tube to lift the front wheels just off the ground. Then without putting your weight on the car, reach through the parcel shelf opening and feel the gap below the axle and the rebound rubber. Should be the same both sides, one finger in is good, two or three fingers in that gap and the springs have sagged.
Cheers Peter (Director SSL)


Buckland B3 Mk2 (Development of F Type Morgan)
Re: Leaf Springs & the Frame [Re: IcePack] #613727
23/01/20 06:40 PM
23/01/20 06:40 PM
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 13
Bath
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jackmorini Offline
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Bath
Originally Posted by Rog
Hi Jack

It’s the proximity of the outer U-bolt nut nearest to the chassis rather than the springs that can cause a problem. If you do suspect that they are 4 seater springs then there is one check worth doing IMO….. Nothing to do with ride quality but more to do with care for the car.

It’s important that the U-bolt nuts/bolt ends are not able to make contact with the chassis as the suspension extends on bumpy road surfaces. My understanding is that if there is any contact there is a risk of developing a crack over time in the thin chassis section owing to the repeated hammering effect. It’s not something that you would necessarily notice when driving so something worth checking because if a crack were to develop it is almost impossible to repair owing to the flexure of the chassis. I think there is a bit somewhere on GoMog about it.

The check. Place a piece of paper under the nearest U-bolt nut to the chassis return on each side of the car. Jack up the car on the rear cross member and allow the axle to drop. Then check for contact between nut and chassis return by seeing if the paper is pinched or not. In fact there should be a few mm of clearance to be on the safe side.

[Linked Image]
The paper was well pinched in this picture of my car. The 4 seater springs were swiftly removed.

The spacer between axle and spring doesn’t effect the clearance between nut and chassis, their purpose is to just lower the car.

I’ve managed to get your longer stops in the post today as I’m going to be tied up during the day for the next week or so. Let me know how they go.

Regards

I'm quoting the above from a different thread because I'm struggling what was said where! Many thanks to Peter Ballard for adding his comments to two similar threads.

[Linked Image]
My rear suspension off the ground

[Linked Image]
and on the ground

So, the springs are very close to the chassis on full extension (wheels off the ground). However there is a hole below the front end of the outer U bolt so it doesn't contact (see second picture).

With the front wheels off the ground (as per Peter's suggestion) the gap between axle and rebound rubber on the chassis is 15-18mm LHS and 22-25mm RHS (approximately - more like can't/can get second knuckle under - not sure if my knuckles are imperial or ISO).

The original isue was the gap for the 'bump stop' being too big on the LHSrunning at full adjustment. So I take Roger's suggestion that I do have 4 seater/4 leaf springs although no explanation about why or when they were fitted.

I remain bothered that the RHS of the car is some 12mm lower (closer to the spring) and lower still when I get in. But elsewhere on the forum I've seen comments the factory regards this as within tolerance so maybe I just need to get used to it.

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