Hi,
I was out in my friends defender today, and showed me the heated seat kit he fitted, which he got of Ebay. Worked really well and very tidy.. Was simple fit in a Defender.

This got me thinking about fitting it to my Morgan.. I have the traditional tombstone style seats.

Has anyone taken off the seat covers? Is it simple. The seat has to come out anyway to fit new webbing, so might be tempted to give it a go..

The kit is only �30ish on Ebay..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Set-Auto-Car...=item2ecb4747c8

Its tempting..

Will

No idea about fitting heated seats retrospectively but I can certainly recommend them. I have factory fitted heated seats and they are very effective on a cold drive hood down. Mine don't heat the backrest however and do take rather longer to heat up than I'm used to in more mainstream cars.

Andy.

+1

So a good idea, but how..

1) Remove seat - six nuts & bolts.
2) Remove base cover - very strong C clips, so expect to bleed.
3) Insert heater pad and secure wire on frame out of harms way.
4) Refit base cover - very strong C clips so expect to bleed.
5) Refit seat - six nuts & bolts.
6) Fit switch under dash (or elsewhere).
7) Fit wiring from switch to heater pad.
8) Fit wiring from switch to a fused live feed - ignition controlled.
9) Repeat for passenger side.

DaveW view?
Not worth the hassle DIY.
Either forget it or get a man to do it.

I shall take your profound advice and let the Williams Trim Shop do it for me!

What??? The factory heated seats don't heat the back seat panel? Crikey that's a poor do! Mine were fitted by Shaun at Allon White and heat both bum and back very nicely. They are a bit slower to heat up than OE seats I've had in Volvo, VW and Ford, but they are wonderful in colder weather and of course have a very high SAF (spouse acceptance factor).

So after 9 years of pondering I think ii am going to do it.. will try the DIY route but will get a local trimmer to put the heat pads in the seats.

Where do people fit the switches?

On my 3.7l Roadster they are fitted into the heater box by the front vents. Fitted by MMC they heat back and bottom.
AW fitted ones to my old Roadster and the switches were on the underside of the dash. Far easier to reach.

Nah, it’s dead easy. Less than an hour per seat and another hour for the electrics. Switches located in the ‘gussets’ either side of the radio,

Fitting the pads is straightforward and the seat covers don’t need to come off. Take the seats out and do the wiring, unclip the rear (or bottom) of the covers and there’s ample room to slide the heat pads between the foam and the leather.

Really is simple and well worth the effort

At my local Aldi you can buy a heated seat thing which plugs into a lighter socket. I bought one for my mg. £8.95. works brilliantly, takes 30 seconds to fit.
Haven't tried it in the mog as the heater is so good.

Had a set put in when I had my seats retrimmed - there were about £40 from eBay.

I have an old trad, so I made some brackets and fitted the switches either side of the heater I also fitted myself.

Very neat

Many thanks for your tips and advice, I have fitted the pads to one seat, I had to remove some c clips to get the cover off slightly so I could get the pad in place. it’s the tombstone recliner so might be different for others.

Now just needs to wire it in. Any recommendations for a easy switched supply one could piggy back off?

Many thanks,
Will

Will, which model & year ?

1995 +4

Many thanks
Will

Try any green wire from the fuse box. Most if not all are fed by the ignition switch. I believe fuse 15 feeds the heater fan switch on such a green wire and may be convenient. What ever fused circuit you use, ensure the rating is upped to cover the extra load. I don't think the seat pads take much so an extra 5 amps on fuse rating should suffice.

Hello Will,
I have retrofitted heated seats in a 93 plus8. Some fuses have battery voltage, others have ignition voltage. So be careful! I used Lucas 2-stage toggle switches and switched the battery voltage via a relay. If you want, send me your mobile number personally, then we can call via WhatsApp.
Greetings from Germany
Günter

Sorry for my bad English but school is out since many years

Günter, many thanks Will PM you.

I have taken a feed off the Green / Slate wire from the heater switch so the heated seats go on / off with the heater. Which makes it convenient, my only thought is there being enough power for both..

Received my pads yesterday. Thought I may as well fit them because I new I'd have to remove the seats to get the tunnel off to renew the rotoflex coupling, will do the webbing at the same time.
A quick check of the wiring diagram shows the switched feeds are white and green or white on my car so will use one of those to control a relay with power coming from a suitable supply, maybe the 50a circuit to a new auxy fuse box.

Relay control IMHO is not really necessary given the seats relatively low current draw, adding complexity with wiring, relay(s), extra fuses etc. and so increasing likelihood of a failure however remote. Morgan don't use any of such for optional heated seats. Any suitably spec'd switch connected to an ignition switched spare or lightly loaded existing circuit should suffice, noting my comment above about increasing fuse rating. Bear in mind MMC have a dedicated fuse on the M3W that is rated at 5 amps and this to power two seats, to give you some idea of current draw.

The kit I bought and used (from eBay) had switches and relays as part of the package. I'd already fitted an auxiliary fusebox to my Mog for other accessories so just tapped off that.

EBay heated seats

each pad will draw approx 3 amps so a 15amp fuse will be ample.

Perhaps I have overlooked the answer to my question here, in which case I apologise.


Is the seat foam of the 2005 reclining seats glued to the cover?

If so, it is certainly more difficult to fit carbon heftig pads?
Also because the cover is quilted lengthwise.

Got one seat done today, also fitted new webbing base (my bum was getting a bit numb on long journeys). I see the kit comes with a relay for each seat as you say TBM. As far as glue is concerned, the base was stuck to the foam but not the back. Also there is a “flap” of leather cloth sewn in to the seam between the base cushion and the bolster under the thighs which was anchored to the frame. I cut this down in width a little, made a cut in the base heater and fed it through. It all seemed to go back together ok. Will do the passenger seat, re-fit and then sort the wiring run and switch location.

Completed the fitting of the heated seats on my 95 +4 with the tombstone recliner seats.

I used the below kit from eBay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19545724...r=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Was very straightforward, the clips holding the seat covers were easy to remove and replace. I added a 4 pin relay to the wiring on the advise of Günter for improved safety of the electrics. I also used a tap fuse from the fuse board. I then put the switches under the radio, just on a piece of wood between the radio and gearbox tunnel.

What a difference it makes on a cold winter / spring day, such a nice improvement and defiantly worth doing, just wish I did it all those years ago..

Thank you Simon,

I´ll have to look closer to my seats to find out if this is a way with my seats.

Thank you Simon,

I´ll have to look closer to my seats to find out if this is a way with my seats.

Perhaps someone has some pictures from the individual parts of the recliner seats

Slow progress on this due to tennis, grand children, grand dogs, volunteering etc etc but I agree with a lot of the above. The kit comes with relays and 7.5A fuses so no need for any of that. My biggest dilemma was the mounting point for the switches which are really nice and neat. I knew the best place was in the dash but worried about damage making the holes - decided to man up and get on with it and I’m pleased to say they look great. I’ve taken a switched supply from the fuse box (White and green in my case). Relays and associated wiring hidden behind the dash and some 4 core flex obtained to extend from there to the seats so the connector will be clipped off and soldered to the end next to the seats, cable hidden under the tunnel. Happy with the eventual outcome but that may not be till next week - then the car and wheels need cleaning

Simon

I understand your concerns about the dashboard. I will probably use the plate of the radio compartment cover as a place for the switches.

I have a radio, never listen to it but don’t like to remove it

I got a piece of wood and fitted them underneath radio. It’s just a thin piece of wood squeezed between the bottom of the radio and the gearbox tunnel but is firm and holds the switches well.

Sorry about quality of pic

There isn’t room under mine it’s tight between the under side of the heater and top of the tunnel