I finally found time today to do this job so that I could Danish oil the floor. The following relates to a 2005 Roadster, but I guess most are similar.

First job is to take the roof down.........

Then remove the cap over the seatbelt bracket and take the bolt out. Make a note of it's position.


The seat is held by six bolts. The first two go through the crossmember and are 8cm over the heads. The second pair, also in front of the seat itself are 7.3cm and go through the wooden floor. The third pair are at the rear of the runners and go through the crossmember level with the front of the leaf spring. These are 9.25cm over the heads. All appear to be AF with 1/2" heads.

The carpet was a mess...........(Drivers side).....


It was held down with half a dozen tacks, I bet they do that so that it doesn't move while they drill the holes. I've pulled the tacks out, because.........
They are tacky...

The floor is in good shape and was treated to two coats of Danish oil. (I did all the rest on an earlier thread).


Here's the side view of the wooden batterns. I assumed they would be of uniform thickness but no........


They taper front to rear from 4cm to 2.5cm and it's very obvious here....


Newer Morgans don't have these batterns, and it's easy to assume that the seats are lower, but I would need to check the frame....it might be different. If the seats are the same then on later cars the seat base will not tilt back so much if it's bolted to the flat floor.
Either way, you can modify the seat height fairly easily to suit you if you're not happy.

The next two pictures show how two holes were drilled in the wrong place for the gearbox remote bracket - they were too far forward.




Fortunately you can get at the bolt heads here.......(Centre of picture)...


I filled the holes with JB Weld and used some penny washers underneath. Much tidier.


Carpet back in. I've blown the wood over with a bit of black paint.


More to follow.............>>>>>

This was the passenger side.....


Under the seat is a metal plate which I'm guessing is for protection if anything comes through the floor......


These are the seat bolts.....two matching pairs at the front and the rears just visible...


Rears.....


Finally...this is the end of that crossmember (this is nearside). The lower bolt is the front leaf spring, and the upper one is the seat belt mounting.


The offside is obscured by the fuel lines, but is just accessible.


The whole job took four hours. Replacing the bolts is fiddly but nothing in this job is difficult.

I must now dash...........

Nice work Dave,

I wish I had heard about the Danish Oil treatment before you first mentioned it on an earlier thread.

I had the seats out of my car last year as I wanted to get a slight backward tilt on my fixed seats. I created new battens with a slightly more exaggerated incline by raising the front of seat. Luckily I can still get under the larger wooden steering wheel! I wanted to drop the seat a bit as I am a bit of a 'tall lad' and would be nice to be further 'in' the cockpit but on investigation (and pre-advised) the intrusion of the rear spring housing would not allow this unless modification to the underside of the seat.

Looks like I will have to have them out again to 'oil' the floor in the Spring now!

Hello
you have some picture, i am interest to do the same
with my 1,92 to find more place

He Dave
wath hapen if i do nit the wood part in

Well Done Dave - An Excellent Presentation again .

Thanks all......

Sukram

If you don't refit the wood, your seat will lower by 4cm at the front and 2.5cm at the rear.You can keep the angle of the seat by fitting 1.5cm washers under the front bolts, and 1cm washers under the second set.
You will also need to find shorter replacement bolts.

Keith - the Danish Oil came from Wickes, and is easy & pleasant to use.

Thanks Dave, I have a load of Danish Oil after we bought some nice modern Oak furniture a few years back and advised to use it once a year. You don't need much so will be good to find (what some may say.....a more worthwhile cause) a good use for it!

Sukram - As regards dropping the seat, again I would be careful of the clearance at the rear of the seat as it may rub on the upstand of the 'box' where the rear leaf spring mounts. Measure it before you try and remove the battens entirely. (I am sorry I have no photos of the operation).


Dave - Also a bit off the thread but further too your other 'distraction of model railways' I was given an acquitance web address of his hobby of photography and railway modelling. You may know him ......www.nevard.com

Sukram,
I would agree totally. I took out the spacers on my seat becuae I wanted to get more protection from the windscreen and had to be very careful that the runners still functioned. Also, as I think Nigel Puttick has pointed out some of the most recent cars don't have the wooden spacers anyway

Best wishes,
G

Thanks to all.
i will inform you after transformation about results
Dave, i love your instructions with picture, why not fix all in a separatet side as manual.

Thanks Sukram.
One day I might try to make something of it, but just now I don't have enough extra time.............
Maybe when I retire - which might be 'quite soon'.....

There is one more thing:
My driver's seat had three scratches in the right hand bolster, from rivets on jeans. I did one myself but the other two were already there.

I bought a repair kit from here......
http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Touch_Up_Kit.htm
They advertise in Practical Classics.

Obviously black is easy, but they also supply colour match kits. It took just a few minutes to sand the leather with 1200 grit, and apply the magic coloured solution. You finish the job off with a clear liquid finisher which is provided high gloss and matt, so you blend to get a match, and it's amazingly good.

Unfortunately the camera won't show it well enough, so you'll just have to take my word for this one.

PS: For some reason I can't right click & paste on this post??????

One other tip is to rout out a circle in the wooden rails big enough to take a nut. Then you can bolt the seat rails firmly to the battens, giving a seat with wood rails firmly attached and the 4 now captive bolts firmly in position.

You need to to rout out a hole to allow the nut to not stand proud of the wooden rail, and it needs to be big enough to drop a ring spanner round it so you can do it up good and tight.

You can now drop the seat into position and the bolts will go through the mounting holes neatly. It makes removing and refitting the seats in future a complete doddle.

HTH
Tim

Great stuff Dave, I don't think I have the enthusiasm for taking my seats out, however I will be using some Danish Oil on the exposed wood underneath carpet.
Off topic a bit, the rubber seal at the front end of my hood has come adrift from the metal rail in parts. Is there a recommended glue to hold in place, it not only breaks the seal but is difficult to fit the hood when it is like that.

I would just use a bit of contact adhesive Dave. Apply to both surfaces and then either fit the header rail to the screen, or slot some wood in the groove until the glue sets.

It's a bit fiddly to fit the header rail at the best of times & mine's had a new seal already, just before I bought it.

Thanks Tim. I've got my passenger seat out at the moment for some TLC to the leather - this should make refitting easier, which will be nice.

Dave

Thanks for that,

I've just taken out my driver's seat - and suffered the same difficulty as with the passenger seat: one of the rear bolt heads was not held captive in the runner like it's supposed to be and so would just turn as I tried to undo the nut. I could not get a spanner on in the conventional way so my solution was to use two open ended spanners side by side shoved end-on into the gap of the runner onto the flats of the head.

If that helps anyone now then great - but I'm planning to post some before and after pics of my treated seats when I'm done and I'll try to remember to include a photo of the spanners in position.

And another note - there are two bolts for the runners on a 1988 4/4.

The interference fit in the runner is so marginal Neil that I reckon it's not designed in. Some of mine were the same and your open-ended spanner tip is a good one. I got by with just one 'end on' but didn't think to mention it!!! Oops.

That's pretty much all you can use in the confined space.

Would that kit be any use for bringing my Black Luggage Straps back to life and be water resistant?
or is Graham's Saddle Soap idea the best solution?

Graham's suggestion is a good one - any equine supplier will have the soap & oil. I've never been involved with horses, but it's a well-trodden path,or even bridleway....(HoHoHo), so it will work well.

My repair kit is for 'indoor' and car interior use. There's no doubt that it will restore the colour, and the finishing 'lacquer' is amazing. But I don't imagine it repels water in an outdoors environment.

I'm a big fan of Dubbin. (oo-er missus...... )

It doesn't polish, but it does waterproof, and now you've raised the wet luggage strap issue, I'll have to get the black Dubbin out and get mine sorted. Here's a link.....
http://www.ukequine.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=360

I'm likely to be refitting my seats this weekend (at long last). I want to replace the nuts bolts and washers whilst I'm there. The old ones are not in awful condition but I might as well, eh?

Question is: should I use BZP or Stainless A2 nuts and bolts? Why?

It doesn't really matter Neil. These fixings are not stressed, so stainless is fine. But if the originals are reasonable, try putting them in vinegar for 24 hours. Clean first with white spirit to remove oil/grease, and they will come up really well. An old restorers trick.

Ok, my seat transformation is done.
In the begin i have provisory adapt the seat that he could be back completely.
Now i have transformed the high of the seat that he moves without problem, in the same winter works,I have renovated the foam and the flex of the seat, he is now like new. The carpet is replaced (DIY handmade from a doormat) and fixed.
Dave thanks again for many ideas, more Adaptations are done or will follow.

A yes, still a question. All the screws are too long, for the technical inspection(security) the need to be cut?

It's OK to cut the ends off underneath, but might be harder to fix next time!!! (unless you use new long ones & cut again).

I don't think the screws under the must be cut to pass the inspection. If so, I would be in trouble with the original setup.

Harald

Yes the old one what to short, as Dave said i had to replace them.
I Think “wait and see”, in April a have to go