I finally found time today to do this job so that I could Danish oil the floor. The following relates to a 2005 Roadster, but I guess most are similar.

First job is to take the roof down.........

Then remove the cap over the seatbelt bracket and take the bolt out. Make a note of it's position.


The seat is held by six bolts. The first two go through the crossmember and are 8cm over the heads. The second pair, also in front of the seat itself are 7.3cm and go through the wooden floor. The third pair are at the rear of the runners and go through the crossmember level with the front of the leaf spring. These are 9.25cm over the heads. All appear to be AF with 1/2" heads.

The carpet was a mess...........(Drivers side).....


It was held down with half a dozen tacks, I bet they do that so that it doesn't move while they drill the holes. I've pulled the tacks out, because.........
They are tacky...

The floor is in good shape and was treated to two coats of Danish oil. (I did all the rest on an earlier thread).


Here's the side view of the wooden batterns. I assumed they would be of uniform thickness but no........


They taper front to rear from 4cm to 2.5cm and it's very obvious here....


Newer Morgans don't have these batterns, and it's easy to assume that the seats are lower, but I would need to check the frame....it might be different. If the seats are the same then on later cars the seat base will not tilt back so much if it's bolted to the flat floor.
Either way, you can modify the seat height fairly easily to suit you if you're not happy.

The next two pictures show how two holes were drilled in the wrong place for the gearbox remote bracket - they were too far forward.




Fortunately you can get at the bolt heads here.......(Centre of picture)...


I filled the holes with JB Weld and used some penny washers underneath. Much tidier.


Carpet back in. I've blown the wood over with a bit of black paint.


More to follow.............>>>>>

This was the passenger side.....


Under the seat is a metal plate which I'm guessing is for protection if anything comes through the floor......


These are the seat bolts.....two matching pairs at the front and the rears just visible...


Rears.....


Finally...this is the end of that crossmember (this is nearside). The lower bolt is the front leaf spring, and the upper one is the seat belt mounting.


The offside is obscured by the fuel lines, but is just accessible.


The whole job took four hours. Replacing the bolts is fiddly but nothing in this job is difficult.

I must now dash...........

Nice work Dave,

I wish I had heard about the Danish Oil treatment before you first mentioned it on an earlier thread.

I had the seats out of my car last year as I wanted to get a slight backward tilt on my fixed seats. I created new battens with a slightly more exaggerated incline by raising the front of seat. Luckily I can still get under the larger wooden steering wheel! I wanted to drop the seat a bit as I am a bit of a 'tall lad' and would be nice to be further 'in' the cockpit but on investigation (and pre-advised) the intrusion of the rear spring housing would not allow this unless modification to the underside of the seat.

Looks like I will have to have them out again to 'oil' the floor in the Spring now!

Hello
you have some picture, i am interest to do the same
with my 1,92 to find more place

He Dave
wath hapen if i do nit the wood part in

Well Done Dave - An Excellent Presentation again .

Thanks all......

Sukram

If you don't refit the wood, your seat will lower by 4cm at the front and 2.5cm at the rear.You can keep the angle of the seat by fitting 1.5cm washers under the front bolts, and 1cm washers under the second set.
You will also need to find shorter replacement bolts.

Keith - the Danish Oil came from Wickes, and is easy & pleasant to use.

Thanks Dave, I have a load of Danish Oil after we bought some nice modern Oak furniture a few years back and advised to use it once a year. You don't need much so will be good to find (what some may say.....a more worthwhile cause) a good use for it!

Sukram - As regards dropping the seat, again I would be careful of the clearance at the rear of the seat as it may rub on the upstand of the 'box' where the rear leaf spring mounts. Measure it before you try and remove the battens entirely. (I am sorry I have no photos of the operation).


Dave - Also a bit off the thread but further too your other 'distraction of model railways' I was given an acquitance web address of his hobby of photography and railway modelling. You may know him ......www.nevard.com

Sukram,
I would agree totally. I took out the spacers on my seat becuae I wanted to get more protection from the windscreen and had to be very careful that the runners still functioned. Also, as I think Nigel Puttick has pointed out some of the most recent cars don't have the wooden spacers anyway

Best wishes,
G

Thanks to all.
i will inform you after transformation about results
Dave, i love your instructions with picture, why not fix all in a separatet side as manual.

Thanks Sukram.
One day I might try to make something of it, but just now I don't have enough extra time.............
Maybe when I retire - which might be 'quite soon'.....