Two garage days presented themselves, so I lost no time in getting on with my front brake upgrade.
A few weeks ago, I did a rear brake inspection, and changed the rear flexible hose, and brake fluid in that circuit in readiness.
First a preamble. Ten years ago, not long after bringing my Roadster home, I discovered that the front nearside hub nut was extremely tight on the threads. Hub nuts should be hand tight after being loosened, but this one was spanner tight all the way off. It's what happens if you over-tighten, it distorts the threads on the hub.
I lived with that ever since, knowing that it needed sorting out. So a week or two ago, I bought a replacement hub assembly from MWS. The first thing I did was to try the hub nut on the new hub, and I found that it wound on all the way, by hand. This confirmed to me that the problem was with the old hub assembly.
The snag is that the new hub comes without bearings, which means either buying new bearings or extracting and refitting the old ones. Being tapered, the outer bearing drops out, and the much bigger inner bearing also drops out, once the oil seal is persuaded to come out. This has a thin metal outer cover, so needs care.
What's left is the two inner tracks. Normally, when replacing with new, I would drift the old ones out and fit the new ones using the old as buffers. Anyway I took extra care drifting these metal rings out, but I don't have a suitable puller, so it involves hammer action. They are very hard so deal with shocks quite well.
I heated up the new hub to help fit the new bearing tracks. The outer one is easy enough as a socket can be used with a threaded ro to pull it into place. The inner track is more problematical, as it's large diameter, so I had to resort to drifting in using a hammer, and soft(ish) punch. This one doesn't fit so far into the hub so went OK in the end.
This is a view you don't often see......the new hub in the back of the wheel........
I might try adopting the old hub to carry the spare wheel. It needs a spacer of 2", and would allow use of a proper hub nut , but doesn't work with a luggage rack.
Pressing in the outer bearing track........
Starting with the nearside....the original Lockheed Caliper with Greenstuff slotted and grooved discs, which are showing signs of lack of use........
New and old.....these discs are amazing. Well engineered and an interference fit into the hub. Secured with five nuts & bolts.
Now the side you don't see....there are no instructions, but the assembly is self evident. The five threaded holes visible here are for cars which use a hub mounted speedometer sensor. In this case you would need to fit five short bolts into those holes. I've given everything a light smear of ACF50, except the disc faces of course.
Pads in place. Held by two through pins and R clips, plus wire spring clips as an antirattle. Those R clips do like springing away if you let them!!!
And assembled. The old caliper is still plumbed in at this stage. Connecting the brake pipe was my final job. Amazingly not one drop of fluid came out while doing this. Usually there's a drip drip drip, when you break the circuit. There are two bleed nipples on each caliper. I didn't notice the inside one to begin with. Obviously the nipples are mounted at the top!
More to follow.......>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>