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#559373 - 12/02/19 02:58 PM Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade
DaveW Online   content
Roadster Guru
Member of the Inner Circle

Registered: 11/12/08
Posts: 16943
Loc: South Yorkshire
Two garage days presented themselves, so I lost no time in getting on with my front brake upgrade.

A few weeks ago, I did a rear brake inspection, and changed the rear flexible hose, and brake fluid in that circuit in readiness.

First a preamble. Ten years ago, not long after bringing my Roadster home, I discovered that the front nearside hub nut was extremely tight on the threads. Hub nuts should be hand tight after being loosened, but this one was spanner tight all the way off. It's what happens if you over-tighten, it distorts the threads on the hub.

I lived with that ever since, knowing that it needed sorting out. So a week or two ago, I bought a replacement hub assembly from MWS. The first thing I did was to try the hub nut on the new hub, and I found that it wound on all the way, by hand. This confirmed to me that the problem was with the old hub assembly.

The snag is that the new hub comes without bearings, which means either buying new bearings or extracting and refitting the old ones. Being tapered, the outer bearing drops out, and the much bigger inner bearing also drops out, once the oil seal is persuaded to come out. This has a thin metal outer cover, so needs care.

What's left is the two inner tracks. Normally, when replacing with new, I would drift the old ones out and fit the new ones using the old as buffers. Anyway I took extra care drifting these metal rings out, but I don't have a suitable puller, so it involves hammer action. They are very hard so deal with shocks quite well.

I heated up the new hub to help fit the new bearing tracks. The outer one is easy enough as a socket can be used with a threaded ro to pull it into place. The inner track is more problematical, as it's large diameter, so I had to resort to drifting in using a hammer, and soft(ish) punch. This one doesn't fit so far into the hub so went OK in the end.





This is a view you don't often see......the new hub in the back of the wheel........
I might try adopting the old hub to carry the spare wheel. It needs a spacer of 2", and would allow use of a proper hub nut , but doesn't work with a luggage rack.



Pressing in the outer bearing track........



Starting with the nearside....the original Lockheed Caliper with Greenstuff slotted and grooved discs, which are showing signs of lack of use........



New and old.....these discs are amazing. Well engineered and an interference fit into the hub. Secured with five nuts & bolts.



Now the side you don't see....there are no instructions, but the assembly is self evident. The five threaded holes visible here are for cars which use a hub mounted speedometer sensor. In this case you would need to fit five short bolts into those holes. I've given everything a light smear of ACF50, except the disc faces of course.



The caliper.......



Pads in place. Held by two through pins and R clips, plus wire spring clips as an antirattle. Those R clips do like springing away if you let them!!!



And assembled. The old caliper is still plumbed in at this stage. Connecting the brake pipe was my final job. Amazingly not one drop of fluid came out while doing this. Usually there's a drip drip drip, when you break the circuit. There are two bleed nipples on each caliper. I didn't notice the inside one to begin with. Obviously the nipples are mounted at the top!



More to follow.......>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
_________________________
DaveW
2005 Corsa Red Roadster S1
2016 Saffron Yellow (Narrow) Plus 4

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#559376 - 12/02/19 03:12 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
DaveW Online   content
Roadster Guru
Member of the Inner Circle

Registered: 11/12/08
Posts: 16943
Loc: South Yorkshire
Part 2......................



Next the offside.......





This shows the inner bearing and oil seal.........





Caliper and pad details....





Fully asembled....







Too nice to use really!!!

Problems? Not really. I nearly lost an R clip when it made a bid for freedom. I missed the fact that there were two nipples per caliper, but the pedal came straight back anyway. When I'd finished the nearside I bled that side before staring on the offside.
I ended up bleeding more than I needed due to not double checking the rear flexible. It had a tiny leak at the union on the axle, so when everything was done, the pedal was very slowly sinking under pressure.

It almost got me thinking that the master cylinder needed re-rubbering. Having double checked all the front connections, I then found a damp patch on the axle and breathed a sigh of relief!

All done the old fashioned way with my bleed tube from 1972, which has just split and is no longer useable......

I can't wait to road test all these changes, but it looks like being the weekend before I can get out.

So you'll have to wait for the verdict on this, the Panhard Rod, and the Steering Damper!! grin2 thumbs
_________________________
DaveW
2005 Corsa Red Roadster S1
2016 Saffron Yellow (Narrow) Plus 4

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#559379 - 12/02/19 03:28 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
John V6 Offline

Member of the Inner Circle

Registered: 21/07/07
Posts: 12730
Loc: Suffolk
Looks good Dave. I hope it is an improvement.
_________________________
JohnV6
2006 Indigo Blue Roadster S1

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#559381 - 12/02/19 03:32 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
DaveW Online   content
Roadster Guru
Member of the Inner Circle

Registered: 11/12/08
Posts: 16943
Loc: South Yorkshire
Data:

Bearing outer: NTN 4T-LM 11910 USA-D LW

Bearing inner: NTN 4T-LM 67010 USA-D MW

Oil Seal: 8B2-1.750 2.500 0.375 CNO 04114

Brake pipe inner wing: Pipe nut: 13mm. Under wing 16mm; Engine bay 17mm.

Hub nut: 1&3/16ths"
Caliper bolts: 19mm or 3/4"AF
_________________________
DaveW
2005 Corsa Red Roadster S1
2016 Saffron Yellow (Narrow) Plus 4

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#559392 - 12/02/19 04:48 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
CooperMan Offline

Talk Morgan Regular

Registered: 19/11/15
Posts: 641
Loc: Yorkshire
looks good Dave
_________________________
Jon M

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#559402 - 12/02/19 05:50 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
Peter J Offline
Formerly known as Aldermog
Member of the Inner Circle

Registered: 13/08/13
Posts: 10915
Loc: Salisbury, UK
A clear and lucid description, as usual.
I always felt the Roadster's brakes on the one we had were a bit underwhelming. They worked, but lacked feel.

I'm sure your new calliper and brake combination will be much better!
_________________________
Peter,
Tarka the 'Otter Mog
2014 Plus 8



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#559403 - 12/02/19 06:02 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
deano Offline

Charter Member

Registered: 12/02/12
Posts: 5273
Loc: Taunton
Great account of your upgrade Dav. Looking forward to your feedback on the level of braking lmprovement.
_________________________
Martin (Deano)

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#559434 - 12/02/19 07:30 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
Button Offline
Talk Morgan Enthusiast

Registered: 19/12/11
Posts: 1608
Loc: Seattle, USA
When I converted My +8 Bitsa from Girling 2 puck to 300MM Wilwood 4 puck I improved the braking a lot. It was interesting, the procedure Wilwood specifies to break in the rotors and then a different procedure to break in the Wilwood pads. The rear drums are Chevy S10 (a little larger than Morgan issue) and have Porterfield linings. I used Wilwood because it is a U.S. Product. It required a bit of machining to install. If UK buy a UK product
_________________________
Button

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#559437 - 12/02/19 07:35 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: Button]
Button Offline
Talk Morgan Enthusiast

Registered: 19/12/11
Posts: 1608
Loc: Seattle, USA
Originally Posted By Button
When I converted My +8 Bitsa from Girling 2 puck to 300MM Wilwood 4 puck I improved the braking a lot. It was interesting, the procedure Wilwood specifies to break in the rotors and then a different procedure to break in the Wilwood pads. The rear drums are Chevy S10 (a little larger than Morgan issue) and have Porterfield linings. I used Wilwood because it is a U.S. Product. It required a bit of machining to install. If UK buy a UK product


BTW: The calipers scraped on the inside of the wheel. I used spacers to gain clearance. Make sure the wheel studs are long enough to do their jobs.
_________________________
Button

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#559496 - 12/02/19 10:55 PM Re: Workshop Note: S1 Roadster Mulfab Brake Upgrade [Re: DaveW]
MOG 615 Offline
Has a lot to Say!

Registered: 24/09/14
Posts: 1277
Loc: London
Dave

Great diy guide as ever .

I must admit to being unclear as to whether you replaced the old bearings with new?

The high spec billet calipers must have changed slightly over time. Mine have the 2 pins and 2 "R" clips but the anti-rattle strips are not present.

I find that bleeding the calipers is best done starting with the inside nipple first and then working to the outside. I have found them quite sensitive to this procedure and even a small amount of air seems to give an "soft" pedal.
_________________________
Andy G
1999 +8 , Indigo Blue.
Ex-John McKecknie/Mike Duncan 1955 +4 racer.

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