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Engine oil #589844
14/08/19 03:13 PM
14/08/19 03:13 PM
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 205
Hertfordshire
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Obie Offline OP
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Hertfordshire
As my service agent omitted an engine oil change at its first, 1000 mile service I’ve decided to do it myself.
S&S recommend Mobile 1 20w50 v twin oil, which has high Phosphorus and Zinc at 1600 and 1750 but this is unobtainable in the UK, I’ve seen Reline 20w50 motorcycle oil has even higher zddp levels but is v expensive.
Silkoline v twin oil is cheaper but is mineral oil but can’t find any info on zddp

The more I look the more confused I get!!
As we don't have to worry about wet clutches and gearboxes is it necessary to use bike oil at all?

Would welcome any recommendations

Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589846
14/08/19 03:27 PM
14/08/19 03:27 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,030
New River Valley, VA
rcmatt Offline
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New River Valley, VA
mobil one is specific for v-twins and is also synthetic. ANY v-twin oil is at least two to three times the cost of "car oil". Synthetic oil generally has a much better endurance profile than "mineral oil".

As for bike oil YES it is important. The heads on a v-twin are significantly hotter than a liquid cooled engine.

You could use diesel engine oil as a substitute. Here in the states we have shell's Rotella, but it is only 10-40. That might be okay as a winter oil, but not as a summer oil


Rodger
2018 M3W "Dreamers on the Rise"
2004 Plus 8 (wife's)
old Goldwings and a couple of Harleys
Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589866
14/08/19 04:30 PM
14/08/19 04:30 PM
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,622
Aberdeenshire
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TimG Offline
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My dealer uses Morris V-twin 20w-50 mineral oil, so do I. Rebranded as Race V-Twin. Morgan say use synthetic for unusually hot conditions.

Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589868
14/08/19 04:42 PM
14/08/19 04:42 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,996
West Sussex, UK
Chris99 Offline
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West Sussex, UK
There's a great Alternative Parts list, available from the Morgan Three Wheeler Club website:

https://www.mtwc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/M3W-part-numbers-V2-Word-200918.pdf

Motul 7100 4T 20W-50 V-Twin fully synthetic is my preferred choice, available from Opie Oils https://www.opieoils.co.uk/

You'll need just over 5 litres, so order 6.)

Opie also stock the K&N oil filter


Red Leader drive
Re: Engine oil [Re: Chris99] #589872
14/08/19 04:56 PM
14/08/19 04:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,347
Furry Boots City
RedThree Offline
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Originally Posted by Chris99


Motul 7100 4T 20W-50 V-Twin fully synthetic is my preferred choice, available from Opie Oils https://www.opieoils.co.uk/


+1 on this
As others have said, peak temperatures can get pretty high in the air cooled heads so a fully synthetic seems like a reasonable idea

Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589878
14/08/19 05:18 PM
14/08/19 05:18 PM
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,712
Forest of Dean
SteveT Offline
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Forest of Dean
Thats not good they didn't do an oil change when its most important, the first service! Think about what else they don't do if you intend to use them again.

I did my own first service as i am unable to trust anyone to do it properly, past experience leaves me unimpressed with dealers.

You will get as many opinions on oil choice as there are brands... I have found both Opie oils and Millers very helpful, but generally go with a spec suitable for air cooled engines and fully synthetic, its superior in lots of ways to a mineral oil and don't try doing it cheaply. A good oil, changed frequently is the best thing you can do for your pride and joy.


Steve

110th +4 AM Chiltern Green
1939 Cammy Velo
1959 BSA GoldStar DBD34
LR 90 SW
1948 MG TC
Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589879
14/08/19 05:24 PM
14/08/19 05:24 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,030
New River Valley, VA
rcmatt Offline
Has a lot to Say!
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Posts: 1,030
New River Valley, VA
Good oil is ALWAYS cheaper than a new engine"


Rodger
2018 M3W "Dreamers on the Rise"
2004 Plus 8 (wife's)
old Goldwings and a couple of Harleys
Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589882
14/08/19 05:33 PM
14/08/19 05:33 PM
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 205
Hertfordshire
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Obie Offline OP
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 205
Hertfordshire
Cheers for the replies!
Agree re service omissions, would have done it myself but wanted a stamp for warranty reasons. Does doing it yourself keep that in place?
Looked at the Morris oil spec and is listed as API SF / SG which is fairly old spec.
Re the Motul, am I looking at the right stuff https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-913-motul-7100-4t-20w-50-ester-synthetic-motorcycle-engine-oil.aspx
In the spec it says it low Phosphorus and Sulphur.
Would go for the Mobil 1 if it was available.

Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589886
14/08/19 06:16 PM
14/08/19 06:16 PM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,317
United Kingdom, Lincolnshire
planenut Online NoMood
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Posts: 1,317
United Kingdom, Lincolnshire

The ZDDP in newer oils is much reduced or eliminated, I am told, as it doesn't agree with catalytic converters. I contacted the Motul tech department after being told that you must use a high ZDDP oil for the X-Wedge engine and they assured me that their oil was certainly up to the job and exceeded all the specifications for HD (and S&S) engines. We are using a little over 5 litres (a lot for this engine) of fully synthetic oil changed every 3000 miles, it's not that hard worked and usually comes out looking much as it went in. Fully agree with the comment that good oil is much cheaper than a new engine but are £100 oil changes that much better? If I was leaving it in for 6000 miles maybe??? Yes Obie, that's the the one. If you are still concerned then Matts Machine Shop, in the UK, recommend Spectro Platinum V-Twin oil, that they sell for a similar price to Mobil 1 .

Re: Engine oil [Re: Obie] #589888
14/08/19 06:20 PM
14/08/19 06:20 PM
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,712
Forest of Dean
SteveT Offline
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SteveT  Offline
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,712
Forest of Dean
Originally Posted by Obie
Cheers for the replies!
Agree re service omissions, would have done it myself but wanted a stamp for warranty reasons. Does doing it yourself keep that in place?
.


There is nothing in the warranty 'rules' that say it has to be done by a dealer, it does however say it must be done according to the manufacturer schedule and using parts that meet their spec, usually 'genuine' and not factor parts are safer in this regard.

Personally i'd rather have a challenge to demonstrate I've followed this in the event of a warranty claim than have dealers cutting corners. The stamp doesn't mean much to me in that regard.

Problem is after so many years in the motor industry i'm a fussy blighter...seen all the dodges before!


Steve

110th +4 AM Chiltern Green
1939 Cammy Velo
1959 BSA GoldStar DBD34
LR 90 SW
1948 MG TC
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