How to wash your car - By used2clean1

First off, you'll need the right products and equipment. Here is a list of the bits and bobs that will allow you to safely maintain the appearance of your car.

Equipment

3 buckets (one for wheel brushes, two for washing)
3 microfibre or lambswool mitts (1 for wheels, 2 for bodywork)
1 tyre brush (small curved brush the width of an average tyre)
1 Meguiars slide lock brush for wire wheels
Lots of microfiber cloths (these can be purchased inexpensively at Costco)
1 foam lance if you have a pressure washer
1 large microfibre drying towel
1 Meguiars all surface interior brush (for mohair hoods or carpets)
1 paint brush for applying tyre dressing
2 microfibre polishing pads or polishing sponges
1 x 1 litre pump spray bottle
3 or 4 x 500ml trigger sprayers.

Products

Car shampoo. I'd choose one from Meguairs Shampoo Plus (low cost) or Zymol Natural Car Shampoo (lovely stuff!). I don't recommend anything marketed as wash and wax. Fairy liquid will completely strip your car of any protection it might have and make your paint go dull and cloudy with time.

Meguiars Hyper Wash for pre-wash foaming purposes (only if you have the foam lance).

Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner. This is a must have and is good for 100 different jobs at different concentrations. If you don't have a foam lance, dilute to 10 parts water : 1 part APC and use as a pre-spray (dilute 4:1 for filthy tyres). You can spray it on your wheels, your hood, your carpets, your door shuts, your tyres'.. anything really.

R222 Total Auto Wash. To be used on particularly dirty exterior surfaces. Will safely shift oil, grease etc. Also great for engine bays or bug splatter. Brilliant stuff but you can manage without it if you're on a budget.

Poorboy's Bug Squash. A must have in the warmer months. Washing with shampoo will not get rid of bug splatter on your windscreen or paintwork, and if you don't do something about them they will etch into your paintwork and require a lot of polishing. Rinse any treated areas thoroughly as this is solvent based.

Autosmart Tardis. This is another must have for removing tar spots. Don't even think about using paraffin rags or turps, or scrubbing away with a cloth. This stuff is brilliant - simply spray on, leave for a minute or two, and wipe off. Rinse any treated area thoroughly as this is solvent based.

3M Glass Cleaner. This is one of the cheapest glass cleaners on the market for the inside of your windscreen. I can't think of a good reason to use a different one.

Leather cleaner. I like the Zymol leather cleaner because it even smells like leather. Raceglaze is known to be excellent too. Using a leather brush can make a real difference to your results.

Clay Bar. Perhaps for the more enthusiastic of owners. Washing your car removes loose dirt and grime, but you paint will still be loaded with contaminants that affect the finish. The clay bar will remove them and make your paint feel silky smooth. It's the perfect step to take before waxing or polishing.

Wheel Cleaner. Wolf's Chemicals Wheel Cleaner (The Brake Duster) is a fairly new product and one you should not be without. It's safe, brilliant, easy to use and inexpensive.

303 Convertible Top Cleaner. This is only needed for those of you with mohair hoods, which we all know are an expensive option so they really ought to be looked after with some proper stuff.

Tyre Dressing. Once you have removed the dirt from your tyres, applying some dressing is a nice finishing touch and stops your tyres from going grey or brown. There's not much difference between dressings in my experience, but I prefer to use one that sprays on.

Waxes, sealants, polishes and compounds. They're all different.

Polishes and compounds contain abrasives to provide a degree of cut. They are used to remove very fine scratches and minor defects. Since they contain abrasives, people are making a mistake when the routinely apply products like T-Cut to their car, as it removes a little bit of paint every time you use it. I recommend Raceglaze Signature Series Pre-wax Cut and Cleanse as a safe and easy to use polish. Polishing should really be done in preparation for waxing.

Waxes and sealants are used to enhance and protect the finish. Sealants - being man-made - are more durable, but it is generally accepted that waxes provide a richer, deeper shine. Wax is also extremely hydrophobic which results in the water beading effect that lots of people enjoy. You can use both if you wish to, but you must apply the sealant first and the wax second.

For darker colours, it will make a huge difference using a wax specifically made for darker colours, such as Poorboy's Natty's Blue Paste Wax or Dodo Juice Purple Haze.

For lighter colours such as white or silver, it is difficult to get any real depth to the finish so there is not much point in choosing a wax over a sealant. I would recommend the Jeff Werkstat Acrylic Kit which is incredibly easy to apply and gives a great shine.

Metal Sealant. Not needed for most cars, but essential for a Morgan. From the stainless steel wheels to the bumpers to the door handles to the badge bar:- all metals should be polished and protected or it will dull, fade and go cloudy. Putting this on your wheels will repel brake dust. There is only one product you should get, and that is Blackfire All Metal Sealant.

Quick Detailing Spray such as 3M Quick Wax or Meguiars Quik Detailer are optional extras. I like them as they enhance the glossy finish and using them means you don't have to dry the car as thoroughly.


Washing Technique

Line up your 3 buckets and put shampoo in two of them and clear rinse water in the other. I put my wheel brushes and mitt in one bucket of suds, and my bodywork mitts in the other.

Give your car a once over with the hose. If you are using a pressure washer, have it on a low pressure setting. Personally, I would not use a powerful pressure washer at all on the Morgan.

If you have a foam lance, put a small amount of Meguiars Hyper Wash and an equally small amount of Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner (APC) in the resevoir and fill it up with water. Cover your car in foam and let it dwell for a minute or two before rinsing off with the hose. If you don't have a foam lance, get your 1 litre sprayer and put approximately 2cm depth of APC in the bottom of it and fill the rest up with water. Pressurize the container as you walk around the car and cover it in a layer of the mixture. Rinse off with the hose.

Spray some Wolf's Brake Duster on your wheels next and leave it for 5-10 minutes. The brake dust will soon dissolve and the iron deposits will turn purple. Don't worry! Agitate it with the Meguiars Slide Lock brush if you need to get between the spokes, use your wheel mitt to give the spokes and rims a clean and rinse them off.

If your paintwork has dried off, rinse it again with the hose as it should always be wet before you put your mitts on it.

Now get your wash buckets. If you have the PVC hood, go round the car with two mitts working from top to bottom, rinsing them regularly in the bucket with clear water. This water won't be clear for long, and the idea is that any dirt and grime your mitts pick up from the car isn't transferred back on to it.

If you have a mohair hood and there are some dirty patches where birds have bombed or tree sap has landed, spray some 303 hood cleaner on to them and agitate with the Meguiars all surface interior brush. When it lathers, rinse it off gently. Then wash your car as described above.

If at this point you notice that there is bug residue on the windscreen and headlamps, give them a scoosh of Poorboy's Bug Squash (remember to dilute) or R222 autowash. Let it dwell for a couple of minutes and then wash it off with your mitt. You can use Bug Squash on paintwork too, but it contains solvents and will do a good job of stripping wax off, so it's best to reapply some wax after you've finished washing.

It is important to thoroughly rinse wherever you have used Bug Squash or Tardis.

Your car should be looking clean by now!

The optional step of claying your car should be done a couple of times a year. Working in areas about 18 square inches, spray some water/shampoo mix onto the car to lubricate it, then dip your clay bar into the shampoo bucket. Take a flat surface of the clay and lightly rub it back and forth over your paintwork. The clay will collect the bonded contaminants from the surface. If it sticks, you need more lubrication. Once an area is finished, dry it with a microfibre cloth and move on to the next area. If you have done it correctly, the paint will feel incredibly smooth.

If you are not claying, get the large microfibre drying towel, fold it and pat dry the surfaces. Use a normal microfibre cloth in your other hand to absorb the final drops. This takes a bit longer than wiping off or just leaving it to dry, but wiping really does marr the finish and water spots/streaks don't look good at all.

Once your car is dry, it's best to stick it in the garage or in the shade before polishing or waxing or applying a sealant.

If you're doing one, two or all three of these steps, the order they should be done in is POLISH - SEALANT - WAX.

Go round the car once applying your chosen protectant with a microfibre pad or polishing sponge, then go around the car again buffing it off with a cloth. Misting with some water makes this process a bit easier. Don't let the sun bake the product on the car before you buff it off. It wont do any damage, but it will be hard work getting it off.

You can now apply the finishing touches such as tyre dressing and metal sealant.

I spray the tyre dressing on and then even it out with a paintbrush, but don't apply too much or it will look really greasy. Have a cloth ready to wipe off any excess that runs onto your wheels.

Use a microfibre cloth or pad to apply the metal sealant to your wheels, door handles, bumpers etc, and then buff it off to leave it shiny and protected.

If you have a quick detailing spray, go round the car looking for streaks or fingerprints and get rid of them. Simply spray on and wipe off.

Voila.


FAQ'S

How long does wax last?

Depends on the miles you do, weather and whether or not you keep it in a garage, but 2-3 months is the norm. Some sealants will last 4-6 months.

What about paint protection like Diamond Brite or Supaguard?

If applied correctly (dealerships rarely do in my experience) then I have seen them used to some effect, but nothing like the claimed 3-5 years of protection.

Is the car cleaning kit I bought from the dealership any good?

It will be overpriced. I've used (under duress!) stuff from BMW, Jaguar and many more, and it doesn't compare to the products I've recommended.

Are the £5 roadside car washes any good?

No. You get what you pay for, and for £5 you get some very harsh and aggressive chemicals blasted on to your car and then blasted off again with no regard whatsoever for the life of your paintwork.

Where can I get all these products?

I get everything from the internet. The Zymol shampoo and leather cleaner are available at a great price from Halfords shops.

Is Autoglym any good?

Their brand certainly is as I get asked this all the time. It's ok. Their HD wax is impressive but none of their other products are as good as the others I've mentioned in my opinion.

Is Swissvax any good?

It's brilliant but there's no denying it's expensive.

Do bird droppings really damage your paint?

Yes! If you don't get it wiped off quite quickly the acid will leave a big etching mark on your paintwork, which will require machine polishing to remove it.

I'm sure your advice will prove to be of tremendous value to those interested in these sorts labours .But why bother ? It's only going to get dirty again .
My Plus 4 has a wash and brush up at Malvern when it has its annual service.

You need to read Ken Hills complete book of concours, plenty of good tips

U2C1 - this is a brilliant (sorry for the unintended pun!)and clear detailed guide to add to the excellent summary you posted earlier - thanks very much for this, and for the time you have taken to help us all.

Regards,

John

I don't know mate, why do people wash the windows on their house? I think it's a sin to have such a great looking car and not look after it. It's all about pride of ownership for me. I actually enjoy cleaning and polishing etc. so it's a no-brainer for me.

A good read and really worthy advice. Thank you for taking the time to write it down for the users of Talk Morgan.

Thanks! You are all very welcome

I was looking at a Brescia Bugatti last month and it has never been waxed or polished probably since the war !
The fellow who it belongs to is a very proud and enthusiastic owner who has owned it for over fifty years and would never dream of destroying the patina ....literally all it gets is the occasional rub down with an oily rag after its been thrashed up bumpy and muddy trials hills.
It looks fabulous.
Shiny is just not my sort of thing .
Regards
Gerry

Amazing. Thank you so much.

Last question: where's best on the 'net to buy these things from?

Cheers,

Nick

Vertar is good - maybe not the cheapest

http://www.vertar.com/

If you want to get into detailing your car then this is a good resource and has links to several suppliers. There are some examples of Morgans on here too.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/

Thanks for taking the time to provide all the info...its a great help. I got into detailing a bit when I had a dark blue Z4. Never knew anything about it before but things like swirls and scratches which showed up so much on the car got me looking into it. Not sure I'd call it fun the amount of time I spent on the car cleaning it but the end results were worth it. Swore I'd always stick to silver cars after that but I've ended up with a Sport Green 4/4 so guess I'll be spending time on it!

Beethoven....I can see where you are coming from as well. I've seen some lovely patinated classics over the years; rather those than an over restored classic car or bike.

You're welcome. I buy the Zymol things from Halfords. Everything else I get from www.polishedbliss.co.uk

Some cars will always look fabulous. I used to look after some beautiful cars, and there was something about a dirty Ferrari that made it stand out, as if to say "I'm a Ferrari and I actually get used!!!!" It wouldn't be mine, but each to their own as you say.

I like detailing French fashion, wash Citroen/ Pug / Renault with a wet rag and scouring powder in the spring, repeat the following spring. - apparently this was the norm for much of France until quite recently

THAT often?

G

Bookmarked!

Grand!
Thanks for all the tips and info.

Cheers,

Just 'cos I'm interested, is shampoo with carnauba in it a gimmick?

I think so. There's just no point to them.

There may be some wax in it, but not enough to offer any sort of protection to your car.

The wash and wax shampoos are not mild at all in my experience, and so they kind of do the opposite of what they are supposed to do. They add nothing in the way of protection and act quite harshly on the protection that you do have!

Great DIY thread - I've stuck it to the top of the Maintenance forum - thank you for taking the time to write the process down.

Interesting. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge is such a simple and detailed way - without big prices attached!

If you use a lambswool mit, you may find this tip useful.

When the new kitchen was fitted, I took the extending towel rail and screwed it under the bench. No clear idea what it would be used for but I'm loathe to throw anything away.



Then I realised that it makes an ideal place to dry out the lambswool mit...........

I love the ingenuity but I use a tumbledryer!

I would be punished for unauthorised use of anything in the kitchen, apart from the toaster, and even that has rules.

True enough, but the garage is my domain......and so is what goes in it.

I think that a woman's respect for the garage boundaries is crucial for a healthy relationship. My mrs used my wash buckets to feed the horses a few weeks ago. It will be years before I trust her with the combination for the new padlock

There's a brave man, locking up SWMBO...............................that's at the other end of the spectrum to DaveW!

Another sado masochistic, whips/cuffs/padlock joke from Brian ... I am seeing a pattern here; many a true word spoken in jest ...

Wow Boshers, and I was just thinking he'd locked her in the house. I think you've obviously got other things on your mind. You've been a bit quiet on TM this Easter, maybe been a bit tied-up; I suppose?

I use the washing machine/dishwasher/tumble drier at suitable times....
When the Empress is out!
No comebacks yet!
I did once clean a couple of small parts in the dishwasher as an experiment. It worked!
Not risked any more yet though!

It is also brilliant for cleaning my tools, I mean my mates tools in his dishwasher not ours, definitely not ours. In the cutlery tray at the top, or so he says,if yours has got one, like ours, I mean his.

Hmm, I suspect something but can't put my finger on it.

My first motorbike was largely assembled in my brother's dining room and my second was often stripped and built in my mum's kitchen. I've never actually done anything but polish bit's in my own house - too sensible.

The thing is though - I always end with a lightly oily cloth cleaning all the tools before I put them away. Why would your friend need the strength of a dishwasher?

BTW thanks to the OP for the tips on cleaning.

One thing though - I try not to use chemicals too much and have found an excellent bug remover from glass and headlights is any cheap sort of nylon pot scourer + hot water + a bit of work. I've even been known to use it on the stainless - it's not done my pots any harm after 15 odd years and it's not created any lasting issues on my bumper or mirrors.

J

Whats the best way to deal with water stain marks on my bonnet, do I need to use one of those cleansers (such as autoglyms HD cleanser )to get the old wax off before polishing out and rewaxing?

I am real excited. It seems that Walmart in the States not carries Meguiars products. They even had the clay cleaning kit. I have never seen the clay before.

Well, after having washed the car and flooded the engine channel where the HT leads and plugs go, the engine of course started to play up.

Life's collected her, changed the HT leads and plugs and all without charge - even though the fault was entirely mine.

What can I say - except don't throw buckets of water over the car to rinse it.!

Put a bin liner over the engine when you do that, just remember to take it off before you drive away.........

Will do just that.

Life's suggested the same, provided the engine's cold and I don't forget to take it off before switching on.

Great Thread which I had missed thus far.

I have gone a stage further and cut two under bonnet shaped pieces of stiff polythene sheeting to cover the engine. After washing it is easy to lift off taking the water with it.

The other point not mentioned here is the factories recommendation (in my handbook) to run some thin oil (3in1 type) along the sealing rubbers, along the wings, to help keep the excess water, that gathers there under the doors, out of the seam at that point where the body frame is most vulnerable.

I don't know how effective the process is but I keep it up.

The last point essential to my wash is the Autoglym Synthetic Chamois which just sops up the excess water leaving a smudge free deep shine. It was great on the Sunset Yellow 4/4 and is equally effective on the Metalic Amazon Green. It is great for drying off the Mohair Hood as well

Frank, if you use aerosol Tectyl or Dinitrol instead of 3in1, sprayed into the lid and applied with a fine brush, it wicks into the joint surprisingly easily. I do that each winter. Also do it above and below the beading.

I would be very careful with nylon pot scourers. The same material is used to make the circular swirl marks on metal plate. I used a new one to remove something like a chemical resin that splashed on my windscreen (truck load spill?)on the Autostrada. I suspect that if I had used a used potscourer it may not have been so bad but I will never do it again. I have spent hours with a buff and jewellers polish to remove the worst of the scratches.

The ultimate tip on bug removal came from Ivo a while ago.
Soak a cloth/towel in water (warm water even better) Spread the towel on the bugged area and let soak. After 15min the bugs just wipe off easy. Works a treat. (thanks Ivo )
Cheers J

CLEANING MY CAR WILL NEVER BE THE SAME AGAIN!!


Suddenly my sponge and water seems, well, slightly inadequate.
If my wife sees your suggestions, she'll have me back scrubbing the kitchen again!!

I'll delete the page, she's coming to talk to me...whoo that was close!!!

But, many thanks for your efforts on our behalf!

Mike N

The front of my house (where my less pampered cars get parked - the mog goes in the garage) is overshadowed by a couple of huge poplars in the golf course next door. I suffer from reddish sappy spots on the paintwork which seem impossible to remove. Any of you car cleaning experts have the answer ?

Chainsaw

Won't that damage the paintwork ?

speechless just -loody speechless - as they say in Germany "schone antwort" rough translation being "good reply"

But it is bonfire night soon

Yes,

But I'm not donating the body frame of MY car...

Great thread and great advice.

Where I live the problem is seagull sh*t, so a good coat of wax is essential if you don't want the paint chemically etched. Also I have stuck with a vinyl hood as I have seen the damage that the afore-mentioned can have on mohair.

Bud

Just tried Spray'nShine on newly bought + 4. This is a waterles wash and wax
Tried it first on wifes Fiat 500 just in case. Snow is now melting leaving a superb shine.
This is superb cleaning if your lazy like me

purchased on web for about �23 for 5 ltrs

How does it cope with without first rinsing off the stuck on dirt? I'd have thought thatbtherevwas a risk of scratching the paintwork.

I took some of this down to LMC and the sceptics with buckets were converted. Works using surfactants to lift the dirty rather than spread it about.

Gentlemen I dont have to tell you , you only get out as much as you put in . If you sit on your arse and expect the fairies to keep it clean then its wake up time .Yes I hear the usual shout of we drive ours , so did Jeremy Harrison even across the USA so your shout eats no meat its a shout of lazyness and I cant be bothered if you are 100% honest to yourself . To achieve a very high shine there is no substitute for a very high quality wax many quality micro fibre dusters and many many many hours of elbow grease and not to polish the car in small circles but with the length of the wing or bonnet etc . Once you reach a high standard it is easy to keep on top of it .

I use Ideal World's Showroom Shine, on Wife's Freelander, my BMW X3 and our Morgan 4/4, best cleaner going in my humble opinion. Leaves a lasting shine, protects the paint and helps cleaning the next time!

Hello out there!
Has anyone heard about Mothers?
And,if so, can anyone share his or hers experience with those products.
Ken in Sweden

It does say on the bottles that you need to clean heavy deposits of dirt off first!

I recently bought some and it's very good. I have a dark blue Range Rover and waxing it is a lot of work, so I cleaned and dried it first and then used this stuff. It was the easiest wax I've ever used. Wipe it on, wipe it off. Which when you have panels the size of barn doors is a bonus!

When I eventually get my Morgan, I will probably use my vast stocks of Zymol....

So after buying my Roadster in September and using it most weekends, I have decided that this weekend the car should have some TLC.

As it is black I will probably need to work a bit harder to get the shine back and all teh dirt off.

Has anyone tried Turtle Wax Black Box Polish and wax on their black cars? understand it can be a bit messy, but want to know if it is any good.

Thanks for any advise of otehr products to maintain high shine on a black car.

I am no purest when it comes to cleaning but I have a black car and use the turtle wax black polish and it's great. Will stain your cloths black but worth it and easy to use.

I would look at a paint sealant 1st like Auto finesse tough coat. Amazing product for shine and protection. If you want to mask paint defects then the turtle wax will work but its only supposed to be used in small areas. Finish the car off with a real carnuba wax. We offer car detailing so i have tried many different products over the years.

Good luck

henry

Thanks for the tip Henry....i'd not seen the Auto Finesse range before. They seem to have some interesting products and might well pull me away from my usual Meguiars products!

In the Morgan handbook it says use wax and not polish. I queried this with Morgans and they confirmed that polishes contain a fine cutting agent which removes paint from the finer edges on the Morgan. This is borne out by my friends +8, which had to go back to the factory because the paint had worn down to the primer on the louvre edges on the bonnet.
The paint is thin on the edge and you inevitably put more pressure on these fine areas.
I do however, polish the main areas avoiding edges, then wax
the whole car. When the wax goes the polish takes over until I can be bothered to wax again.
I use Autoglym wax that seemed very expensive at the time, but I have used it a lot and the pot is still nearly full.

Thats the stuff I am about to use it on the chassis and under the wings, but forget the tiny swirls movement go with the flow of the metal wing's from front to rear same on the bonnet etc it take longer but well worth it . It's about �45/- posted to my door but if it lasts a year then thats less than a quid a week . Wash your micro fibre dusters out and the sponge's ( keep them damp in a sealed food bag ) You can pick up a RAMER SPONGE in Boots these are the same except they are a little thicker 3CM so take that bit extra work load .



I use Autoglym wax that seemed very expensive at the time, but I have used it a lot and the pot is still nearly full. [/quote]

Thanks for the tip Jack. My sponges are greasy from the bonnet catches (see Quiet bonnet catches)and even with washing you pick up oil from around the car.

I have given up on polish as well and now use only wax. It gives a far deeper shine to my Sport Black car. I use Autoglym Polish only on the chrome bits as it still gives the best shine to chrome and metal.

A product called "Poorboys Natty�s Blue Paste Wax" which smells of chewing gum gets my vote no matter what it is used for.
Thanks for your advice Used2clean1 I have ordered a pot.
I'll keep you informed of progress.

Just when I thought it couldn't get any better I have just ordered a "Dodo Juice Fantastic Fur Microfibre Buffing Cloth".
.............this is car cleaning porn at its ultimate!

Advice needed. There are what appear to be small pale circle marks on the bonnet which I think my have resulted from parking the car with rain still on the bonnet and the engine hot (that is a guess). I have tried Autoglym polish and Autoglym paint restorer but they will not go away.

p.s. Like many above I have taken to using Autoglym wax polish, provides a deep glossy finish, and does not cut into the paint.

p.p.s. I must get back into the two bucket method. Used the three beers method to get rid of the flies on front wing the other day. That method still works.

You may have to go more drastic Steve. It depends if it's bleached by the sun, or if it's a residue from hard water. Meguiars do an ultimate cutting compound and a milder finishing polish. Look at their product range, and decide which you fancy. Red is quite prone to this, and I've already had problems with my Golf when I don't leather it off after washing........

Before thinking of any cutting compounds, have you tried a clay bar?

Very easy to use and I'd have thought would sort this out.

I'm happy to talk you thru the process if you're unsure.

never thought of using a clay bar. I would be very interested in finding out more.

I am literally heading into hospital as I write for a back operation.

Perhaps some other kind soul could explain.... The proper lubrication is key.

If I'm up and around I can run through it tomorrow...

Steve, have a look at Meguiars . I've used their clay bar in the past and you need to use lubrication with it, such as Meguiars Quick Detailer. It will gently take off surface contaminants and any traces of wax as well, so you need to reseal the surface with wax afterwards.

This.

Just back from the butchers.

Buy yourself a clay bar and matching lubricating spray. Don't be a cheapskate and use washing up liquid. Buy the proper stuff.

Wash and dry your car in the normal way.

Pull off a 50p sized dollop of the the clay.

Spray maybe a one foot square area of paint work with the lubricant - I'd do this when the car is cool and not in direct heat such as we've had recently.... So, spray the area and then GENTLY rub backwards and forwards (not circular) over the lubricated area.

Once your panels have been clayed, as Jays says, they are then unprotected - naked, vulnerable! You will need to wax these areas to protect them.

You will not damage your paintwork.

Take a look at the clay surface that you've been rubbing with. It will be black with crap from the paintwork. Fold this in to your blob of clay, spray a new area and start again.

Once clayed, your paintwork will feel super smooth to the touch and all marks removed.

Far better to use this somewhat laborious technique than any cutting polish or compound.

Thanks chaps. I will get on the case straight away. - well at the weekend.

Meguiars or Autoglym Surface Detailing Clay Kit?

So could it be rain/hard water dried out by the hot bonnet, as it is not on the wings (yet).

I favour Megs, having changed over to it from years of Autoglym, mainly because I think that the waxes and polishes leave less residue.....but no doubt someone else prefers the opposite! Megs was recommended to me when I was on the Zed forum....a lot of the guys were heavily into detailing which was something completely new to me and all I wanted was some advice on removing some swirl marks. I thought Megs was the bee knees until I delved further and realised what exotically named and priced cleaning preparations are out there!

It could well be hard water residue...I've had similar in the past and am now extra careful in drying off the car after washing.

Megs is good - as is Zymol.

Just as an aside, there's a new formula of Autoglym Super Resin polish which seems residue free. Worth trying - on Amazon. Autoglym is the Marks & Sparks of polishes, Megs and Zymol are a bit more Bond Street. Having said that, Autoglym is really good stuff - the new formula particularly.

Steve.... As to your small circular marks. It's very hard to say what they might be - it certainly sounds like water marks. Just go really easy on anything you do - you won't do damage with a clay bar, but cutting polishes can be difficult.

Would this be a good pack 'Meguiars Quik Clay Bar Car Detailing System Starter Kit'?

Take a look at Kleen freeks site . You can use the hard wax and let it set or leave it on the car for months ( lay up time winter ) it is harder work than Auto Glym but worth it.

Yes. Looks ideal. There's even a video!

http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/194/Quik-Clay-Starter-Kit

Obviously don't wax your car until this is done or you'll seal in the marks you're trying to remove.

And as mentioned earlier, wax your car once it's clayed and you're satisfied. Immediately wax it as the paint will be unprotected.

Thanks for your advice on that. I did think it was odd that everywhere I looked it said 'polish, wax, and then apply the clay bar'

I'm the same - moved to Meguiars from Autoglym for the same reasons. Clay will deal with hard water residue, so keep your fingers crossed! If it's bleached it will only come out with cutting.

Thanks again everyone.

I have now ordered Meguiars clay bar kit etc.

I will keep you informed.

Tried the clay bar today.

Not much 'dirt' appeared on clay even though I tried a few times.

Unfortunately the marks are still there.

Time to get a bit more physical then.........

I've been trying to deal with some stone ships and a longer chip on the top of a wing. Using Chipex I've usually been able to flatten the new paint but for some reason, probably the hot weather, the paint dried too quickly to flatten using the kit. After trying mild rubbing compound and getting nowhere I've ended up very carefully using P2500 wet and dry paper to flatten the paint followed by rubbing compound and then something I've not used before but seems quite impressive... Farecla G3 scratch remover. This seems to be quite gentle in action but clears up any small scratches. I then finished off with my favourite polish...Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and then Meguiars Carnuba Wax.

It might all be a bit too drastic for your marks Steve.....you could miss out the wet and dry...and probably should!

Jay - you are very brave.

Steve, I have a similar issue on the bonnet and around the top of the wings of my red 4/4. I wondered if it was connected to the autoglym hi def wax I used - as the first circles appeared after I treated it to some a year or so ago.

Last year I had the car detailed which improved it a lot, but the chap who did it was reticent to get too aggressive with the cutting compound on 24 year old paint.

I think I need to let him have another go, I had been wondering about clay, as I was able to restore the blackness back to our jeep last summer

Jays. For dealing with stone chips you need a dozen pencils with rubbers on the end, 3 grades of fine wet and dry, a hole puncher for putting A4 into a ring binder/ leather punch, some evostik plus paint, thinners, fine artists brushes, autoglym polish or similar and a 40w inspection lamp. I usually buy the paint from Halfords, spray cans give a better result than touch up sticks, look around the carparks for cars that are a good match to your Morgan then buy the appropriate colour.

Punch some circles of wet and dry and glue to rubbers on your pencils. This will allow you to flatten the paint between coats without colateral damage, just rotate the pencil between thumb and fingers applying light pressure. Use the inspection lamp to bake the paint between coats and when satisfied finish off with the autoglym. On non metallic paints it is possible to achieve a near invisible repair.

Great tip Easter.

I use Easter's method except I use a hair dryer (low speed) instead of an inspection lamp.

I was always taught to use lots of water when rubbing down between coats.

Bud

Being a bit of Jay Leno fan I happened upon this video advocating the steam cleaning of cars, outside, inside and under the bonnet.
Surely this can't be right.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bXmxRjjAw8

I beleive that steam cleaning wash all the rage 20 years ago, the engine bay and suspension being given a thorough claer. It was then found that the steam cleaning was removing oil and grease from areas that need protection. Chrome wire wheel were also a problem, as the steam could be forced between the spokes.

This stuff is excellent for cleaning leather - used a leather wipe in the re sealable packets - little effect so got this from the Wife's cleaning cupboard and it lifts the grime off a treat.

Used a leather wipe to apply it and a clean leather wipe afterwards to remove any residue.

Called White Wizard - it is waxy stuff - wife says it came out of a catalogue years ago. Made by LB Roe California.

That's great and systematic way to wash a car.!

Funny how old posts resurrect! I was reading about dry ice cleaning of engine bays....seems to be the way forward!

This thread was how I found Talk Morgan

I think I typed "how to wash a Morgan" into Google

Wish I'd never bothered now ! :santahohoho:

So do we. (Joke, honest!)

1) Park in Garage as normal
2) Wait for river level to rise



I do hope all's well, and your water's receding

You'll need a good quality dehumidifier, let me know & I'll send it your way.

'tis a leftover from a leaking bathroom - the lovely chaps who built the extension didn't bother themselves to move the loo overflow, even though their extension put the overflow inside... Genius!

very interesting and thank you for taking the time to write this

It takes all sorts doesnt it, but for the life of me I cant understand people who make a hobby of "detailing". How can cleaning ever be fun? Like weeding, or decorating, or doing your tax return

Howard, you clearly don't understand the joy of being a bit OCD!!