The rear core plug has gone on my crossflow, so I'm going have to get it into my local garage to get it (and the others) replaced.

While it's out, I'll get the clutch checked and replaced if necessary. I've also been toying with the idea of sticking in a lightened flywheel.

Any thoughts/tips/hints experience with flywheels? It's the 1600GT.

Cheers

Phil

Have a chat with Burton Power

Burton Power Flywheel

Yep was planning to give them a call Monday, but I was after some personal experience if possible.

I've read some stuff online (not Morgan) - a mild lightened steel flywheel will give quicker revs, and better engine braking allegedly, but I'm seeing some contrary information about mpg - some are saying better mpg due to lack of weight, others are saying worse due to lack of inertia of heavier wheel..

On a road car? My initial thought is don't do it unless the current flywheel is so over-specified that it is preventing quick gear shifts.

Yes, lightening the flywheel will feel like the engine wants to rev more readily which will be of most benefit if the power delivery is all at the top end of the rev range, but it's not without downsides:

Typically, an uprated clutch is matched to a lightened flywheel (due to the reduction in rotational inertia, more throttle must be used to prevent stalling or clutch slip especially on downshifts). Clutches do take more of a beating, unless...
You develop the habit of using the heel of your right foot to brush the throttle whilst downshifting under braking. If you're not in the habit of doing this (I couldn't think of a bigger PITA on a road car) then you will quickly realise what job your original flywheel was doing.
If you are like my Dad (who was taught to drive this way to match revs and blip the throttle on downshifts) then you'll disregard my comments and think that heavy flywheels are just there to protect engines from bad drivers!

Thank you,

Just found this on Burtons Website:

Unless the flywheel is abnormally heavy we do not recommend flywheel lightening for road stages of tune. The slight loss of low speed torque and flexibility resulting from the tuning modifications carried out, can be greatly exacerbated by a lightweight flywheel.

On My ZETEC powered 1961 DHC I had an aluminum flywheel. I did not like it in town and noticed no difference on the Interstate. Removed the light flywheel and installed the original iron. Much easier in Town. No difference in MPG that I could ascertain but I was not focused on mileage.

I should add Seattle has rather steep hills.

Phil, I have no experience with lightened flywheels though might add to the list of those who suggest to leave it standard as many a tuning effort ends up a disappointment as the initial balance of the engine can be upset.

I do have some experience of replacing a core plug on that block, though in a Lotus Elan and at the side of the road, it was a long time ago. I used a coin of the realm, I had a ball peen hammer in my tool kit and dished the coin a little bit, also used a smear of Araldite round the edge of the coin, which if I remember correctly was a 2p.. (-: Put the coin in the block with the now raised side facing out and tapped it to make it expand into the block for to tighten the fit.... worked a treat.. (-:

It's very frustrating that of the 4 plugs, it's the one that's most difficult to get to! Reckon it's going to be several hundreds to fix for a 50p part...

Phil,
Just for your interest the book "Tuning Escorts and Capris" by David Vizard it states that the 1600GT flywheel is 18.5 lbs and that the standard 1600 is 26lbs.
I agree with the others in that you don't want the flywheel too light.
Cheers
john