With those masks, which filters should they be fitted with to filter out vapours and overspray?

Great to lean you’re at the paint stage already, give me a shout if you want a loan of a space heater, I’d be glad to help.

Cheers Ewn .... am due a visit for some odds and ends .... will be good to have a catch up.

K

Permobel......brings back memories.
My first car was a Bedford HA van. The van variant of the Viva.
My dad was a coachbuilder. The van was in a lockup for a few months waiting for an insurance decision. My dad did a deal to buy it with the assessor including waiving storage fees ( ) New windscreen, dent in roof pushed out, minor damage to wing. A paint rep came in and gave us Permobel to try out as it was a “new” option. Free of charge! It did give a good gloss finish ( pale grey).
Cost us £105 to buy/repair. Did 100k+ miles and sold for £80. Paintwork still as good as new apart from normal stone chips etc. Back in those days cellulose was the paint type. As Ray said ^^^^^ water the floor to suppress dust, heaters to warm the paint shop, cutting paste to polish the freshly painted areas to knock back the new paint look and blend in.
I think the switch to water based paints means heated booths to accelerate drying and dust prevention is a MUST due to the extended time. Don’t know much about 2 pack paints other than the iso-cyanate types are lethal. Comparable to asbestos and coal dust for respiratory illness effects and regulations.

Sospan, Viva HA, the fastest thing on the road on the journey from from new to corrosion beyond belief...(-: As for Permobel it was quite some paint you could feel it strip the enamel from your teeth while spraying. Permobel had it`s advantages though took a while to dry to the touch and a while longer to cure, which made the repair of spraying imperfections a real pain compared to celly. As no more than an an occasional sprayer of paint, I categorised it as a one shot gloss from the gun process which was fine for whatever truck or van I was running at the time.

K, I have sprayed 2K base coat and lacquer once and with no more than a mask, and survived. I believe that it may be possible to rectify spraying errors, though perhaps not ass simple to do so as was the case with celly which of all paints seem the most forgiving for an amateur such as I, and perhaps easier to repair at any future time too...? If spraying conditions are not great , then it is possible to still recover with a bit of fine wet and dry and some "T" cut to bring things to a fine glossy finish.. As ever things have moved on considerably since I last sprayed anything so there may be far better options out there for an amateur these days..?

Good luck in your choices K.

Chew plenty of Chewing Gum and drink lots of Milk whilst your spraying, in the old days Painters were allowed a pint of milk a day
as part of their Contractual wages.

When I sprayed with celly I did the whole car and expected to have to flat back and polish. To have a "from the gun" gloss finish was impossible with the conditions and equipment I worked with. But I put enough coats on to enable me to cut back. I've just done a local repair on that car and am waiting for the paint to harden off for a couple of weeks before I flat it back and polish.

Looking at paint supplies (cellulose) for the Morgan I haven't been told of shortages of any tints.

The supplier will suggest there is no shortages because they use a binder system these days, simply add the clear Celly Binder to a raw concentrate pigment of chosen colour.

Voila

I use a firm of stove enamelers in Liverpool to do my motorcycle petrol tanks. There was an old boy there who did the pinstriping on the tanks, wheel rims etc with the long tail brush, no masking or guidelines. Lines down to 1/16" wide.

His secret for a steady hand? A pint of Guinness as soon as he got in and another pint with his lunch.

Arwyn

Which is how you supply ink for printing packaging. Varnish plus a colour concentrate(s). You blend colours to get the right match. I think it is the same with car paint.