This site is such an amazing resource - I always come away feeling more educated that when I arrive :-)

The chap at Spiyda makes some really useful stuff, very helpful too

Don't forget that if you are measuring the output of the mechanical voltage regulator it won't read 10V but will chop between 0v and battery voltage (12-14V). The fuel and temperature gauge are heavily damped and take an average. The regulator that TBM mentions is easy enough to install as long as you are the size of a 6 year old child!

Yes, with a modern digital voltage tester they are too sensitive, if you have an old analogue jobbie with a nice old fashioned needle you can almost get a better average reading around 10 volts, but it does flicker a bit, by coincidence been testing one today which suddenly decided to work, I can only assume the coil contacts were a bit grotty from standing over winter

There are other solid state regulators which closer mimic OE.

Thanks for the continued advice from everyone - I used a circuit tester and there is definitely power getting to the fuel tank (the led was flickering, so I'm assuming this is what the flickering from 10v to 0v indicates) - would I find the regulator in close proximity to the petrol gauge.

As the gauge does move (albeit, always to 1/3 full) the uneducated me is going to suggest that it's the sender that needs to be replaced

Got my first ever Morgan Car meet-up tomorrow - so excited !

My regulator was on the bulkhead, behind the glovebox, passenger side (RHD car).

My regulator ('74 4/4 2 seater) is under the dash pretty much dead centre of the bulkhead. Fixed to the inside upper bolt holding the tool tray to the bulkhead. A multimeter would be a good buy. Tests more than voltage.

It's the gauge that requires the regulated 10 volts so it will always be located close by.

An old moving coil analogue multimeter is best to assess the output from an OE electro-mechanical regulator.

. Dai,. A length of bamboo is a lot more reliable.