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#759255 24/10/22 07:13 PM
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Hi all,

Just wondering if someone has an old spare R/H or L/H 42mm splined hub (8tpi thread) knocking about?

The handing (left or right) is not important and I'm not bothered about the condition of the splines and flange either, but the 8tpi threaded section should be good.

To explain, I'm replacing the spare wheel securing T Bar and aluminum spacer arrangement on my 2012 Plus 4 with a spinner so I really just need the thread section of the hub, I intend to cut the thread off the hub and use it with a spinner and threaded rod to create a Morgan branded spare wheel securing nut.

If anyone has an old hub under the bench with worn splines or such like but with a good thread, please PM me with details.

Thanks, Dave.

Last edited by Montegue; 24/10/22 07:14 PM.
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Originally Posted by Montegue
Hi all,

Just wondering if someone has an old spare R/H or L/H 42mm splined hub (8tpi thread) knocking about?

The handing (left or right) is not important and I'm not bothered about the condition of the splines and flange either, but the 8tpi threaded section should be good.

To explain, I'm replacing the spare wheel securing T Bar and aluminum spacer arrangement on my 2012 Plus 4 with a spinner so I really just need the thread section of the hub, I intend to cut the thread off the hub and use it with a spinner and threaded rod to create a Morgan branded spare wheel securing nut.

If anyone has an old hub under the bench with worn splines or such like but with a good thread, please PM me with details.

Thanks, Dave.

Someone has done similar but think they welded a threaded rod to the underside of a spinner. Might be an easier option to get the look you want.


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Sumerset Rog did it but fixed the threaded rod in place with some poured resin. That precludes any weld damage.
Do a TM search on “spare wheel spinner”

Last edited by Deejay; 25/10/22 11:25 AM. Reason: added Rog

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Here you go, a couple of alternatives without using a hub. Here and here.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Rog; 25/10/22 11:51 AM. Reason: pics added

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Great minds Rog laugh2

Just popped into MWS and picked up a R/H brass spinner, by a lucky twist of fate MWS are only 20 minutes drive from my house, I chose a R/H spinner to fox those pesky opportunistic theives who will hopefully follow the arrow and just tighten the thing down into the captive nut rofl

Visiting in person also gave me a chance to confirm the base metal with the team at MWS, turns out it's a brass and lead alloy so the brass spinners are just the base metal polished up. We're now not going with my hub idea, instead we're going to cut an 8tpi L/H thread on some brass bar using a lathe and centre dill/tap it for the central bolt, thanks for confirming the thread we need to cut for the captive nut end too thumbs

With a L/H 8tpi thread cut on the bass bar stock we can wind the finished assembly into the spinner then tig braze it to the inner lip of the spinner, this will ensure minimal heat transfer to any visible polished outer faces, and with the outer well filled with water we can create the perfect heat sink to further minimise heat transfer.

I'll update this post with photos on Saturday when I expect it should be all completed and on the car.

Last edited by Montegue; 25/10/22 04:11 PM.
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Don’t forget it’s 8tpi Whitworth thread!


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Originally Posted by SimonH
Don’t forget it’s 8tpi Whitworth thread!


Whitworth shocked2

That's a bit oldgit

Thanks Simon, I wasn't aware frown2

My mate is the machinist so I'll let him know.

He's keen to put a thread on our insert but personally I don't think it's necessary, my suggestion was to machine the thread out of the spinner then press the chilled insert into the warmed spinner to create an interference fit, this before Tig brazing it to the inner lip of the spinner.

I still think this will be more than strong enough given the arrangement we're creating is just to secure the spare wheel.

Last edited by Montegue; 25/10/22 06:57 PM.
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Brass isn’t nice to tig braze

The zinc boils out and spits back
I’d turn a thread and use bearing fit Loctite to secure it


Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

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Originally Posted by SimonH
Brass isn’t nice to tig braze

The zinc boils out and spits back
I’d turn a thread and use bearing fit Loctite to secure it


Thanks again Simon, I'll pass that on.

You've saved the day again cheers

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The lovely fifth brass spinner I collected from MWS earlier this week, these things really are automotive jewelry love

[Linked Image]

Kept it simple by turning a blank and pressing it in at 10 tonnes, that's not coming out in a hurry, just needs de-buring.

[Linked Image]

Threads cut to 1/2 BSW at both ends, green retaining fluid used on the threads before screwing into the blank.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Job done cloud9

Last edited by Montegue; 28/10/22 03:56 PM.
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