Yesterday was MOT time for Ruby, I checked everything before leaving and had checked everything last week too. When the tester tried the brakes the brake lights didn't work, at this point somebody came in to speak to the tester and I jumped in the car and gave the brake pedal a good kicking and lo and behold they came on. The tester said ah probably needs a squirt of WD 40 so as they were now working all's well. I was also pleased that Cains LED headlights passed muster. So good for another year. When I got home i gave the button on the the brake light switch a good squirt with WD 40 and worked the switch in and out and touch wood (Ash) it will be ok now. It seems OK.

The exact same thing happened to me at the MOT this year. It will play up again in week or two mine did, so i bought a new one.

The switch you need is 1212C it was only approx. £11.00

Cheers Craig, where did you get it from ?

The original factory-fitted switch on mine had been hacked-about to get to the connectors, a real bodge.
I got my replacement on Ebay although if they are out of stock Rutter's have them (more expensive...).
It's one of those jobs that needs a universal joint on your neck, and probably better close-up eyesight than mine.

You can get these Apem switches in better quality with the designation 1212A2. On the one hand, A means Argentum because the switch has silver contacts and lives much longer. Secondly, the contacts are accessible and can be bent outwards if there is not enough space behind the pedal. I don't see in your photo how the contacts are accessible.

https://www.conrad.de/de/p/apem-1212a2-drucktaster-250-v-ac-4-a-1-x-ein-aus-tastend-1-st-700545.html

There are certainly similar electronic wholesalers in the UK.

here is the specs re the whole 1200 series in English.

https://asset.conrad.com/media10/ad...-250-vac-4-a-1-x-einaus-tastend-1-st.pdf

I think Heinz went through this a while back in a detailed post..?

I suspect the switch will come in two types, one with N,C. (Normally Closed) contacts, the other with N.O.( Normally Open) contacts, and depressing the switch button reverses the contacts from one to the other status... Yeah all a bit simple, but simple to buy the wrong switch too.... With the numbers posted hopefully that will be the correct type of switch for the brake light situation.

I think RS Components may have them in stock as the yellow label looks like one of theirs..?

Yes, RS have them at only £5.89 inc vat. Stock no. 103-6252.
Did a search on ebay but nothing found.

That's right, George:)

The 1212 types are "normally closed" for the brake light (which means that the brake pedal keeps it open when not depressed and therefore no brake lights or in other words, when the brake pedal is not depressed then the switch is depressed and vice verse)
The 1213 types are "normally open" needed for the ECU. Both switches are next to each other behind the brake pedal. It is also written above in the specs I linked in English.

My detailed thread three years ago was about the 1213 switch for the ECU. Without +8Rich's advice, I would have continued to be blind and no idea about the switch existing. I had already changed the throttle, the MAF sensor, the ignition coils and the accelerator pedal😰😰😰 (ok, all to test with used parts, but I was desperate).... a whole year of unsuccessful trying in the dark and all without any hint from OBD2. My garage also had no clue.
The car stalled out of the blue and wouldn't pick up the throttle. It turned out that switch 1213 had a loose contact. This switch activates another control programme as long as you brake.

I now have one of each kind of switch in my travelling spares cache. Having had the brake light switch become intermittent whilst 100 miles from home, I wouldn’t want to be stuck somewhere.