I was wondering if someone could offer an explanation for the massive gap between the rebound spring and the hub on my 1970 4/4. As I understand from reading here the spring should contact the hub but be just about 'turnable' when grabbed. I should add that my car has been set up for sprint/hillclimbing and has telescopic (Avo) dampers all round and negative camber plates - could it be a competition modification? What are suggestions for my intention to return it to a fun road car - should I leave well alone? I've barely driven it since I got it but on first impressions it drives well. And, "deep joy" my first image posted.

I guess if for any reason the main springs have been lowered, or may have suffered broken coil(s) it might create the situation in your pic...? Other than that if the shocker is restricting full extension of the spring..? I guess the initial clue might be in the appearance of a lower ride hight relative to the affected wheel(s)..?

The main springs have weakened or are simply too short Peter, assuming you have pushed the car back and forth a short distance to find an average static position. Dampers will not affect this situation unless they have seized or are too stiff to allow normal suspension articulation. Given your mention of competition use the car will have had a hard life which may have contributed to this situation.

With that amount of play you will have little roll resistance and a large amount of rebound suspension travel over bumps.

Suggest the well proven SSL RS kit which includes full set of dual rate springs, adjustable gas dampers and steering bearings. It allows accurate setting up of the ideal zero static play on rebound spring you mention.

Daft question but does the suspension move fully. Sometimes the bushes can sieze. That gap is certainly larger than anything I have ever seen.
GoMog has something on that here siezed front end

Yep, looks like someone's put in short high rate springs to stiffen the rear suspension and lower the ride height. Like Richard says, the roll on turn in will be pretty savage. Definitely agree with installing SSL kit instead.

Looking at the grease witness marks, it appears that the rebound springs are never called upon to perform at all!

I would release the front shockers temporarily and bounce the front a few times to see if it settles, helps to narrow down the cause

Thank you everyone. I now have a much better idea of what I'm looking at/for. The car is new to me and I have not had a proper opportunity to closely look it over and check things. I will first do the GoMog jacking up check (thank you John V6) and take it from there. I do understand that low speed steering is normally heavy but I have to say it is VERY heavy on this car - so maybe a clue to something seized. The SSL conversion is very appealing but cost may come into the equation. Once again, thank you for all suggestions - I will investigate when the weather in these parts improves a bit and report back on any findings.
Peter H

Just to be absolutely certain the main springs are too short I would echo Jon (Coopermans) advice on removing dampers but after suspension has been lubricated. I would add grease at the stub axle nipples. The kingpin top bolts may still have the OE engine oil lubrication system but many owners have replaced this with extra grease nipples.

When all lubed do a drop test by jacking wheels a few inches above ground with hydraulic jack and allowing to drop quickly. The car should bounce but note the kingpin geometry causes tyres to squeeze together slightly under compression hence possible need to push the car back and forwards to allow settling and accurate assessment of static ride height.

If rebound spring gap remains similar to your photo it needs sorting. Whilst dampers are off you can check them manually. As a minimum you will probably need new main springs but it's pot luck where that will leave the rebound spring gap if any, which is why the SSL kit although expensive is the attractive option. As it also includes stub axle to spring roller bearings it will almost certainly lighten steering as well.

Look forward to hearing your further findings.

The steering on a 4/4 should be that heavy it has narrow tyres, are the tyres old & are the pressures correct (22 psi). We are all different & I don't use the SSL but others love it.