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Joined: Aug 2010
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Paul F Offline OP
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The past 2 services on our 4/4 have flagged a very slight coolant leak from the thermostat housing. I decided that a mild afternoon in January was the ideal time to fix this. Parts ordered and delivered, I set to straight after lunch on Monday. Dismantling was straightforward. The thermostat housing is fitted underneath the alternator on our 2014 car - and just above the engine mounting. The two hoses were OK to remove from underneath with the car on axle stands. I placed a container under the hoses and caught most of the coolant that escaped.

Working from the side of the car, with a 1/4" drive socket set and a long extension I was able to remove the 4 set screws quite easily. The thermostat housing then pulled away and it was easy to spot the problem. There is a small gasket on the smaller of the two pipes and the thermostat housing has a rubber ring which acts as the other gasket. I replaced the thermostat housing and the thermostat. Looking at Ford forums, these plastic thermostat housings are prone to cracking. Best to consider them as consumables.

Re-assembly got me flummoxed for a while. I ran out of time on Monday as it soon became time to get the horses in. The problem was that I could not hold the thermostat housing in place and insert one of the 4 set screws at the same time.

I used rubber grease (red) to coat the two rubber gaskets and to hold the new thermostat in place. The thermostat is on the side of the engine so I ensured that the small pimple (bypass thingy?) was in the same orientation as on the thermostat that I removed.

This afternoon, I finished the job. In order to get the thermostat housing ti stay in place, I cut the head off an M6 set screw and then cut a slot in the end. I was able to get the resulting threaded bar started in one of the fixing holes using some gaffer tape and a length of electric cable. Then the thermostat housing stayed in place long enough to get one of the other set screws started. A dab of grease in the socket held the set screw in place so that I could feed it past the assorted pipes, wires etc. Once all three other set screws were in place, I unscrewed my makeshift dowel and replaced it with the set screw. Torque settings for the M6 set screws (from a Ford forum) are 9Nm / 7 lb ft (I had to buy a new small torque wrench too!).

Once all was back together, I refilled with coolant and ran the engine until the thermostat opened. So far so good. No time for a test drive today - getting the horses in intervened.

Old thermostat housing showing tell-tale seepage & 2 rubber gaskets.
[Linked Image]

Old thermostat housing showing 2 pipes - this is upside down compared to the orientation on the engine. Not sure where they crack though.
[Linked Image]

The answer to my inability to get any screws started.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Last edited by Paul F; 01/02/23 06:11 PM.

Paul
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Good job well done Paul 👌


Craig Jezz

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+1 Paul thumbs

Would just add that to avoid coolant loss when removing hoses you could use radiator drain to allow some out first in a controlled manner.

OE plastic rad drain shown below.

[Linked Image]


Richard

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+2 Paul
A well thought through solution 👍


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Paul F Offline OP
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Thanks Richard re draining. I was a bit too hasty and didn’t spot the drain on the rad until I was underneath re-fixing the hoses.
Simon SiFab will cringe given that he thought to include the drain.


Also, I forgot to include the part numbers:

Housing = Ford part number 1707050

Thermostat = 1712228

Got them from the Ford eBay shop. £31.23 for the thermostat and £38.99 for the housing.

Last edited by Paul F; 01/02/23 08:19 PM.

Paul
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Good job, Paul👍 Have you had a look which degrees celsius your new (and old) T are? should perhaps be engraved on the T. If I recall it right, somewhere around 82C?


'14 4/4 graphite grey
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
+1 Paul thumbs

Would just add that to avoid coolant loss when removing hoses you could use radiator drain to allow some out first in a controlled manner.

OE plastic rad drain shown below.

[Linked Image]

When I went to undo the plastic drain plug on my old plastic radiator for a routine coolant change, it sheared in half along the threaded part, making me wish I had simply pulled a hose off instead! So I replaced the whole radiator with a Si fab one.
Incidentally, I would have thought it just as well to replace the coolant on a 2014 car when doing a job like this, unless its been changed previously since new.


Doug

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Paul F Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Heinz
Good job, Paul👍 Have you had a look which degrees celsius your new (and old) T are? should perhaps be engraved on the T. If I recall it right, somewhere around 82C?



Sorry Heinz, I haven't checked either. The annoying thing is that that old thermostat seemed fine but the rubber "gasket" had degraded. When I ran the engine up to temperature, the opening seemed to be the same as before.


Paul
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Paul F Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Deejay

Incidentally, I would have thought it just as well to replace the coolant on a 2014 car when doing a job like this, unless its been changed previously since new.


Good point but changed when the radiator was changed.


Paul
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Originally Posted by Paul F
Originally Posted by Heinz
Good job, Paul👍 Have you had a look which degrees celsius your new (and old) T are? should perhaps be engraved on the T. If I recall it right, somewhere around 82C?



Sorry Heinz, I haven't checked either. The annoying thing is that that old thermostat seemed fine but the rubber "gasket" had degraded. When I ran the engine up to temperature, the opening seemed to be the same as before.


Thanks to your part number I was able to google it, I hadn't thought of it at first. I just wanted to compare if I had bought the right thermostat three years ago. Yes, 82 degrees is what I also bought and it matches your part number.


'14 4/4 graphite grey
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