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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 426
Learner Plates Off!
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OP
Learner Plates Off!
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 426 |
Hello TMers Ever since my rebuild of my MOG last May I have had problems with my fuel and engine temperature pressure. Last year I put in a electronic regulator after some advice from fellow TMers. That sorted the fuel gauge out but my temperature gauge was reading high. I had a word with Melvyn Rutter recently who told me my problem was my temperature sender. He sold me one for a Ford Crossflow and Smith gauge, which I have fitted. Unfortunately my electronic regulator seems to have blown. Does anyone know what the Voltage should be to the Smiths Instrument? I know my pressure in my engine is good, last year I went to MOG22 and my gasket etc did not blow. I hope the about makes sense.
Navy Dave 1976 Morgan 4/4
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 32,471 Likes: 3
Tricky Dicky Member of the Inner Circle
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Tricky Dicky Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 32,471 Likes: 3 |
Navy Dave, it's a 10 Volt Regulator you need. Alternative Supplier.
Regards Richard
1999 Indigo Blue +8 2009 4/4 Sport Green prev 1993 Connaught Green +8 prev
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 5,127
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 5,127 |
As Rich says, you want a 10V regulator. I use the Spiyda solid state one SpiydaYour engine pressure gauge should be 'mechanical' rather than electrical. There is usually a narrow plastic pipe coming from the engine block, into the kingpin oiler and then pnto the gauge. WIth the correct voltage regulator your engine temperature should be around the N. On mine there are two tiny little white dots on the edge of the gauge and the needle sits there once warm.
1972 4/4 4 seater - 3G Morganeer 1981 MGB GT Too many ratty motorbikes
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 5,127
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 5,127 |
|You can see the 'dots' in this image ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2023/03/25/IMG_20230325_074210.md.jpeg)
1972 4/4 4 seater - 3G Morganeer 1981 MGB GT Too many ratty motorbikes
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 6,124
Talk Morgan Sage
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Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 6,124 |
I can vouch for this solid state 10 volt instrument regulator on image link below. It replaces the far less reliable electro-mechanical OE one. Note the bi-metallic strip operation of fuel and temperature gauge used on earlier cars require a regulator to provide a reference 10 volts. They will not work accurately without as battery volts are continually rising and falling during driving. You may even damage the instruments irreparably without. Just noticed it's the same as TBM linked above. The kit comes with heat conducting paste and a pop rivet to secure to metal surface to keep the semiconductor cool. There are other solid state regulators that fit inside the OE metal casing (for originality?) doubt the heat dissipation is as good though.
Richard
2018 Roadster - Red/Magnolia - Morton 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 - Lenny 1945 Moto Guzzi Airone
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 6,043 Likes: 1
Just barreling along Talk Morgan Sage
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Just barreling along Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 6,043 Likes: 1 |
As Rich says, you want a 10V regulator. I use the Spiyda solid state one SpiydaYour engine pressure gauge should be 'mechanical' rather than electrical. There is usually a narrow plastic pipe coming from the engine block, into the kingpin oiler and then pnto the gauge. WIth the correct voltage regulator your engine temperature should be around the N. On mine there are two tiny little white dots on the edge of the gauge and the needle sits there once warm. Another vote for Spiyda here, I've had a few bits over the years and even converted an old wonky Smiths pulse tacho with one of their kits, clever stuff
Jon M
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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 426
Learner Plates Off!
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OP
Learner Plates Off!
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 426 |
TBM, Richardv6 - it's the Spiyda solid state regulator that I brought last year that seems to have blown.
+8 Richard - I have brought one of the regulators suitable for Land Rovers, Classic cars following your ebay feed.
Following more investigations the problem seem to be that my alternator seems to have failed, it was pushing out 15 volts!
I have been spending couple of Shekels lately on the electric side of the MOG. New battery, new alternator (reconditioned) and now the regulator. Hopefully this will sort out this problem once and for all. The cold weather last November did my battery in.
Still good job for the overtime.
As normal many thanks for the replies.
Navy Dave 1976 Morgan 4/4
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 32,471 Likes: 3
Tricky Dicky Member of the Inner Circle
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Tricky Dicky Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 32,471 Likes: 3 |
Good luck Navy Dave, it sounds like you have had a bit of bad fortune with the sparky bits but sound to be well on top of it now.
Regards Richard
1999 Indigo Blue +8 2009 4/4 Sport Green prev 1993 Connaught Green +8 prev
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 6,124
Talk Morgan Sage
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Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 6,124 |
Just as well it did blow by the sound of it Dave. At least it alerted you to the alternator regulator issue, hopefully before it damaged the battery.
It's not too difficult to fit a new regulator within alternator. Stripping down and removing old one as pattern for replacement should be easy although soldering iron may be needed. A good auto electric supplier should be able to provide replacement and they all regulate to around 14.4 volts. Keep a close eye on isolating washers though as leaving one out could spell disaster.
Richard
2018 Roadster - Red/Magnolia - Morton 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 - Lenny 1945 Moto Guzzi Airone
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