Immobiliser disable help please

After my immobiliser fob dying today I would like to remove / disable my immobiliser, or have the capability to do this on the road.
This is my original 2013 fob so it has lasted best part of 9 years, not too bad, but when you dont have your spare with you its game over !
Luckily it failed a short distance from home so I was able to get to my spare and get home with out doing anything drastic.

I seem to remember many years ago on TM a thread about this , how disable the immobiliser using a plug supplied by Morgan ?
I have googled TM and used the TM search facility with nothing directly on this that I can see, except a reference in the Club Parts List to a diagram in the Morgan Parts Book page 69 about an immobiliser socket, which just has a diagram of the wiring loom and an immobiliser connector C33 on the loom and another socket C47 not connected to the loom labelled immobiliser connection lead. I am guessing this is the Morgan socket ? From the diagram it look like C47 has all pins connected ?

Question - Anyone know how I can get hold of one of these sockets, or make one , and roughly physically where is socket C33 ?

Thanks

anything that can immobilize you eventually will and usually not at a time of your choosing. So I guess the devices worked, kudos to MMC.

Good luck getting it back into working order.

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The plug can be bought here
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/3629193
You also need the appropriate pins and then wire as per the instructions in the wiring diagram. The mating connector is also white and behind the dash somewhere near the middle.

Thanks guys

I have bought the connector, but not sure of the pin connection needed on the connector.
The Morgan diagram seems to have all pins shorted together, GLLOQ's has specific pins wired together, is there a definitive answer please?

Thanks

This taken from the M3W Parts Book.

This is the shorting plug schematic factory fitted when optional immobiliser not spec'd.



As can be seen if provides four loops identified by wires of the same code. These complete each leg of start circuit and coil circuit which presumably the immobiliser (when fitted) inhibits until cancelled by fob.

If you look carefully at the last image GLLOQ posted, the above not surprisingly, ties in perfectly.

ETA: Andy beat me too it

Many thanks Andy , Richard.
Spot on.

This group is amazing, finding the right things in a timely manner. Good job guys!

There is also an article about the immobiliser and link plug, with details on how to make one in the MTWC Bulletin, August 2020.

Apologies for resurrecting this thread , but I am not having much success with the substitute immobiliser plug.
I have got around to making the immobiliser bypass plug as described above, and checked for continuity and shorts with my multi meter and all is ok.
My only concern with the plug is the pins dont project through very far through the socket body, but roughly the same as the original.
I can hear them click into place with the latch in the socket body, so have assumed thats ok.

But when I plug it in and ignition on, I get :
Headlights on
Indicators on
Many dashboard warning lights on.

I have not tried starting the engine as this is clearly wrong and I dont want to risk damaging anything.
On reverting to normal with the bypass plug out and the original in , all is ok !

I am aware the original socket has more pins in use than the new bypass plug uses?
I dont profess any skills as an auto electrician , but I do know my way around a soldering iron and building basic electronic circuits and gadgets, so not a complete newbie.
That said I think I must be missing something obvious !

There is only one socket the new plug would fit, so I am think I am plugging into the right one, though I cant track that socket back to what I think is the immobiliser box.
Does this look ok?

I think you have viewed the diagram plug socket from the wrong side Nippy. The diagram is from the back of the plug with the lock slot on the top. See the photo of my made up plug (that works) and you will see what I mean.

Mine from same angle , looks the same to me ? , except the soldering is pretty rubbish.....

This should work so there must be something basic we are missing. Attached is a photo of the other side of the jumper socket, just in case. Also attached is a photo of what the immobiliser box looks like. There is no set location for it as the dealers fitted them usually and the location can change from dealer to dealer. My sensor was taped on in the steering shroud with insulation tape, not very professional. It's a shiny box about the size of a fag packet. If you have found that the key fob isn't working then they can be re-activated with a set procedure, as detailed in the MTWC article. They sometimes stop working as they have not been used for a long time. The jumper socket should work though and is a useful tool to eliminate the immobiliser if you have starting issues. I hope this helps, good luck.

Thanks Planenut
My equivalent image.


Grasping at straws : Can I ask how far through do your pins protrude on the side of this image ?
They all look a similar height to me , but just in case some are not making contact.
That said I cant push them any further in , but tempted to have another go making them as neat as I can.

I have a call outstanding with Toad about replacement fobs.

I think that's the wrong plug - the immobiliser multi-plug is higher up and predominently managaing black wires (which is normal and makes it hard for tea-leafs to know how to over-ride). I could only get to mine by removing the back fire-wall panel under the bonnet.

I agree with Ringa, that appears to be the wrong plug - the immobiliser is accessed by either removing the dash dial faceplate from inside, or by removimg the firewall from under the bonnet.
The correct plug is populated with black wires.

Regards
Andrew

That explains a lot if I am using the wrong socket

However , with the firewall swung out the way, I cant see any other sockets the immobiliser plug would actually fit.

This is a series of 4 shots into the area behind the dash ,with the firewall swung out, far left, center left , center right , far right
If anyone recognises the right plug to insert the immobiliser plug into , please shout up , thanks.

Far left

Center Left, arrow pointing at the plug I have used to date

Center right

Far right - I think the silver box is the immobiliser

The last photo with the metal box looks like the immobiliser. Follow the wires back, the insulation wrapped loom and you should find the plug. I think Chris and Phil are correct about the loom being black wires as well, from memory. Your jumper plug looks the same as mine, it should work.

I have done this on my 2012 car.
The immobiliser unit is the silver box, all wires to it were black on mine. I presumed this was to be a bit secret squirrel and make it harder to by pass?
Will post pix shortly

Photos
First shows box and wires and plug exiting box

Second shows blank plug(black) with black wire loom to the white segment.


There is also a pair of wires from the dongle sensor to the box with a connector wrapped in blue tape. On mine this was loose and would disconnect with vibration!

The myriad of green wires and a fuse connector was the solution to mysterious electrical issues including the ability to start motor without key by having emergency flashers turned on? There were multiple inputs to single fuses which are nice routed individually

A quick postscript to say I have finally found the wiring loom immobiliser plug and socket, fitted the immobiliser jumper plug and all works as expected, huge thanks to all who have contributed !
Every one was valid and helpful.

My immobiliser loom plug turned out to be immediately behind the rev counter in the scuttle space, but had dropped down between the chassis tube which runs under the dash and the rear of the dashboard plate itself, so not obvious from the firewall direction.
Following the harness from the immobiliser box was the first clue - it ended in a barely visible white plastic shape with black wires - haha !.
I tried to get a meaningful picture of this but failed.
Fumbling around to try and get access to the plug from the firewall side clearly wasnt going to happen due its position and the undergrowth of wires in this area.
Removing the rev counter and speedo panel from inside the car gave enough access for a quick test with the immobiliser plug in place and success !!!!

I have moved the loom connector where the jumper plug fits so it is accessible from inside the car - so on the odd chance if I am leaving it somewhere I dont trust ( I never do on purpose, but we all have breakdowns ) I can easily and quickly remove the jumper plug.

I must say it is a joy to start without having to fumble around with the immobiliser dongle !

Thanks again for the help.

Good to see it is all sorted in the end. We have all learnt that there are at least two AMP 070 12 pin plugs under the dash of a M3W 😁.

Thank goodness I never had the immobiliser fitted, just something else to go wrong.