Talk Morgan

Idling puzzle

Posted By: SCX358G

Idling puzzle - 06/08/19 06:33 PM

Can anyone suggest the root cause of the following fault on my 1969 4/4?

This a 1600GT Ford crossflow with a single Weber carb, and a mechanical fuel pump, unleaded head, Shell V power fuel. Standard distributor with electronic points. Manual choke.
Car starts and runs normally initially, for maybe 10 mins. Once thoroughly warmed up though, when the engine returns to idle at say a junction, anything but the most gentle application of the accelerator causes the engine to stall. The more rapidly the accelerator is pressed, the more likely the engine stalls (with a bit of a 'whuff' sound). Gradually applying the accelerator avoids the problem. Above idle, engine response/revs is normal. In fact, on recent hot days, if the car is allowed to coast to a halt, say from 30 mph, in neutral, the engine will stall before the car actually comes to a stop. Engine idles at approx. 900 rpm when warmed up and choke is fully in.

Ignition timing and advance are correct, though engine does seem to pink a little pulling up steep hills in a high gear, on a hot day. The problem goes away in the winter, ie cold days.
Carburettor has been cleaned, and the mechanical fuel pump replaced?

Any suggestions?

Many thanks
Posted By: Gambalunga

Re: Idling puzzle - 06/08/19 07:17 PM

Points a bit to a rich mixture particularly if it is OK in cold weather when the motor will run with a richer mixture, . Is there a little black smoke from the exhaust at times or does it smell a little rich? Float level not correct, worn out needle valve, etc.
Posted By: andymot

Re: Idling puzzle - 06/08/19 09:28 PM

I think I'd be looking for an air leak in the carb/induction area. Try spraying WD40 or brake cleaner around - it'll get sucked in if you spray the leak point and it'll alter the revs alerting you to the location.
Also maybe fuel starvation - is fuel getting throu ok? A possible culprit is a rubber hose breaking down internally - that would be worse when hot. I'd be looking at the fuel line in the engine bay area first. Float level could be suspect as suggested also.

I have had some dodgy electronic components before - if you had a condenser I'd be swapping that out to check. Not so easy with the electronic kits but if all else seems ok on the fuel side I'd be suspicious of the little box of tricks hiding in the distributor.

Good luck searching.
Posted By: Button

Re: Idling puzzle - 06/08/19 10:19 PM

My experience with these Weber Downdraft Carbs is that they are very prone to junk in the carb. There is a tiny screen at the fuel input, check it out. I agree about air leaks. Tighten every nut and bolt and then give it spray. I use WD40 if nothing else is handy. Not sure if in the UK ethanol is a problem. In the U.S. Corn Farmers are making lots of money at the expense of fuel hoses etc.
Posted By: tmg513

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/08/19 06:01 AM

Originally Posted by Gambalunga
Points a bit to a rich mixture particularly if it is OK in cold weather when the motor will run with a richer mixture, . Is there a little black smoke from the exhaust at times or does it smell a little rich? Float level not correct, worn out needle valve, etc.

I'd go along with that, for what they cost probably worth doing anyway.
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/08/19 06:32 AM

When looking for air leaks I employ a length of rubber tube kinda like a stethoscope, one end to my ear the other following round the joints in the carb(s) and inlet manifolding etc. The tube can also come in handy for balancing twin carbs by listening to the tone of the airflow having one end of the tube held close to the intake of the carb..
Posted By: DonM

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/08/19 08:04 AM

Seem to remember Weber’s have an extra little pump that squirts fuel into the inlet when the accelerator is pressed to stop this happening. Maybe blocked, faulty.

I had a problem with one that had clear silicone sealant in the float chamber that had been used as a gasket. I cleaned the carb numerous times before I found it.
Posted By: Max5

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/08/19 08:09 AM

Sounds like a blockage in the pump jet. With the air cleaner removed check if, when you snap the throttle open manually there is a squirt of petrol from the pump jet. You could also check the integrity of the vacuum advance and retard hose as these can perish and cause a leak.
Posted By: Gambalunga

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/08/19 08:27 AM

Originally Posted by DonM
Seem to remember Weber’s have an extra little pump that squirts fuel into the inlet when the accelerator is pressed to stop this happening. Maybe blocked, faulty.


Originally Posted by Max5
Sounds like a blockage in the pump jet. With the air cleaner removed check if, when you snap the throttle open manually there is a squirt of petrol from the pump jet. You could also check the integrity of the vacuum advance and retard hose as these can perish and cause a leak.

I had forgotten about the throttle pump. Yes I would agree that that could be a cause.

Though I think if that was the case it would still happen in cold weather.
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 19/09/19 11:19 AM

I almost have the same problem. At times when I go to neutral to stop at an intersection the engine just stops. My mechanic has cleaned the jets on the sides of the Webber carbs on my ford Kent 1600 engine but although in garage the idling was ok when I went on a trial it stalled a couple of times when changing to neutral. The engine was running ok up to yesterday . Although it is not the solution I have also increased the idling revs to 1200 but problem still persists. Any other suggestions besides the above thread.
Posted By: CooperMan

Re: Idling puzzle - 19/09/19 12:39 PM

Dave, looking at the age of your car I would also look at the quality of spark you're getting and especially the condenser
Posted By: britmog

Re: Idling puzzle - 20/09/19 02:49 PM

When this happened to me in my 64 4/4 with the 1600 crossflow and weber down draft it was the float not being correctly set after the rebuild. Another check is to slightly increase the idle revs and see if this resolves the issue, if this is the case then it could be the timing being slightly off allowing it to run rich.
Posted By: Arwyn Williams

Re: Idling puzzle - 20/09/19 09:49 PM

Have you carried out a plug check after one of the stalling episodes?

My suspicion is that this is a carburettor problem rather than an ignition problem. Having said that, I once had an curious problem on a Crossflow engine which would not idle below 1200 rpm - it turned out to be the bob weights in the Motorcraft distributor having seized.

Have you checked the accelerator pump diaphragm? If its perished it should drip a little petrol when you operate the the throttle lever and if it let's petrol out it will probably let air in. A new one is included in a genuine Weber service kit.

Arwyn
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 21/09/19 01:38 PM

My mechanic and myself have completely stripped down the carb ,checked and cleaned. Also checked the accelerator pump. Put the carb back in place and the problem still persists. I tried the car on a 10 mile trip and had to increase idling speed to 1500rpm to avoid stalling in traffic although cruising on gear is normal. But idling even at 1200 rpm is not smooth. I will replace the air filter next but I do not believe this could be the cause. Sometimes the engine just dies when idling but there is no problem to start again.
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 21/09/19 03:00 PM

MOR404, rather than throwing out a series of suggestions I would be interested to know some details... Is this Morgan new to you, if not has the fault just started recently. I note you mention carbs, plural..? Type of carbs. Is the engine tuned. Do you have the correct settings for valve clearances and ignition timing to suit the cam installed. Have you performed a compression test, are the ignition leads in good condition.. Run the engine in the dark, look for sparks leaking around the leads, dizzy cap and coil. You may have noted I mentioned using a length of rubber tube to check for air leaks around the inlet manifold to head joints and carb to inlet manifold I take it all the spark plugs have the same colour and gaps and are correct grade for the state of tune and that the spark is strong. Dependant on your location how is your fuel quality... water in the tank..? Also is the breather hole in the fuel cap clear, does the tank suck air when you take the cap off after a run...As has been pointed out already you have changed the simple stuff like rotor arm points and condenser, if fitted..and checked the advance and retard mechanism is not sticking, can be checked by holding the rotor arm and trying to turn it, it should turn fractionally in one direction and spring back. While you are in there lift off the rotor arm and add a few drops of oil on to the cotton wool if still in there, if not drop some oil on to the head of the screw that will now be visible. Clean the tip of the rotor arm by rubbing it on the tyre sidewall, ideally you do not want to take any metal off at this point as you will increase the air gap between it and the segments in the dizzy cap. The segments foul up in time give them a scrape with the blade of a screwdriver you may find crud flakes off them. Check the carbon brush that makes contact with the rotor arm check it springs or that the spring on the arm (dependant on type), makes good contact, clean the point of contact on the rotor arm.While at the dizzy pull the end off the vacuum pipe near the base of the carb or somewhere on the inlet manifold (if fitted) and suck on it while looking at the dizzy internals and the plate which the points are mounted should move and spring back when you stop sucking, proving that the vacuum advance if fitted does in fact operate...

That should keep you busy for a while.. (-: Good luck, let us know how you get on...
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 26/09/19 05:18 PM

Having gone through the list as recommended we ended up taking out the carb again. On inspection we noted that the butterfly shaft moves when pushed sideways so we took it off to check about wear. We put on another plastic washer on the drivers side of the carb shaft and engine is now idling well at 900rpm and not hunting or dying on idle. Looks like the shat was leaking air.
Luddite I ve owned my Morgan for two years and it is a 1980 model with 36000 miles with a Webber twin choke carb.
Posted By: John V6

Re: Idling puzzle - 26/09/19 06:29 PM

Well done
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 26/09/19 08:28 PM

MOR404. Good news indeed, many thanks for coming back with the resolution to your issue.

Had you used a bit of tube as suggested, I suspect you might have heard air being sucked in around the spindle...?

The reason I asked how long you owned your Morgan was to know whether this issue had been around for a while or just something that appeared recently. Knowing the answer to such questions can help fault finding.

Over the years Morgans have been modified thus chances may be that an old Morgan may have been modified with different cam, carbs, H.C. pistons, exhaust system...any or all of which details may have been lost in the sands of time, Then a new owner sets the ign timing, tappets etc as if the car was standard, expecting it to run well..

All of which matters not a jot now that you got it running well... (-:
Posted By: Paul F

Re: Idling puzzle - 26/09/19 09:02 PM

Good news.

I vaguely remember being told that Weber carbs fitted to Ford engines had a typical life expectancy around 40,000 miles - your 36,000 is close enough.
Posted By: Richard Wood

Re: Idling puzzle - 27/09/19 07:03 AM

Originally Posted by Max5
Sounds like a blockage in the pump jet. With the air cleaner removed check if, when you snap the throttle open manually there is a squirt of petrol from the pump jet. You could also check the integrity of the vacuum advance and retard hose as these can perish and cause a leak.


As well as the hose, you could check the auto advance/retard is working at the distributor itself. A long time since I tried but I believe you can suck on the hose and check for movement at distributor.
Posted By: CooperMan

Re: Idling puzzle - 27/09/19 08:26 AM

Originally Posted by MOR404
Having gone through the list as recommended we ended up taking out the carb again. On inspection we noted that the butterfly shaft moves when pushed sideways so we took it off to check about wear. We put on another plastic washer on the drivers side of the carb shaft and engine is now idling well at 900rpm and not hunting or dying on idle. Looks like the shat was leaking air.
Luddite I ve owned my Morgan for two years and it is a 1980 model with 36000 miles with a Webber twin choke carb.


Good result, if anyone's interested - you can test in-situ by carefully spraying Cold Start around joints & spindles whist the engine is running, if you've got a leak and it's drawn in the revs will rise
Posted By: Oakvillian

Re: Idling puzzle - 30/09/19 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by MOR404
Having gone through the list as recommended we ended up taking out the carb again. On inspection we noted that the butterfly shaft moves when pushed sideways so we took it off to check about wear. We put on another plastic washer on the drivers side of the carb shaft and engine is now idling well at 900rpm and not hunting or dying on idle. Looks like the shat was leaking air.
Luddite I ve owned my Morgan for two years and it is a 1980 model with 36000 miles with a Webber twin choke carb.

That sounds very familiar. I consider myself very much a neophyte when it comes to diagnosing such ephemeral things as a lumpy idle, but this is exactly what happened to my car a couple of years ago ('85 CVH with Weber 32/24 DFT carburettor). I went through all the usual (read: easy) stuff, changed plugs, leads, condenser... eventually a local garage who understands these things found the butterfly throttle was "loose in stays" and a tiny plastic washer was all that was needed to fix it. I'd never have dared to prod and poke around in the carb to find it myself!
Posted By: BobtheTrain

Re: Idling puzzle - 02/10/19 06:07 PM

Originally Posted by Oakvillian
I consider myself very much a neophyte when it comes to diagnosing such ephemeral things

I saw neophyte in the Matrix.
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 01:50 PM

After using the car regularly over the past days I am still not happy with idling especially when I start the car the first time during the day. It still does not run at 900rpm. However after 10 minutes on the road it runs ok even on neutral. I also noted that after I switched off the car until I open the garage door after a long run, it took me three attempts to start whilst normally it starts spot on. The car runs very well after reaching the correct temperature. What should I look at next.
Posted By: britmog

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 02:37 PM

Based on your opening statement where you indicated some pinking at various times I would check the plug gaps, points and the timing in that order. Although you mention the timing is correct what is that based on, all engines are slightly different to what is written in manuals?
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 04:32 PM

Bruce The initial problem was stalling whilst idling not pinking.
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 05:02 PM

MOR404, sorry to read that your Mog is not running as you might wish despite resolving your carb issue..I guess an other question is did it ever run to match your expectations of it..?

Modern cars have so much complexity built in to ensure smooth running in all sorts of situations that are far outside the capabilities of any elderly carb fed engine which may be less than comfortable while running on the choke, which it`s self may not be operating perfectly if automatically controlled..?

Your car is nearly 40 years old, it has spent a lot of time with it`s engine and much else not in use and depending on climate, corrosion can play a part, which can cause it`s own wear and tear issues thus mileage as recorded in the speedo may not be taken as a true assessment of condition. Also that you have only owned it for 2 of it`s years (?) you may have no idea as to how it has been cared for over the previous 30 or so years..and as I hinted before it is also possible the engine has been subject to some modifications..? Fuel quality and dependant on whether the engine has been modified to run on whatever fuel you use can play a part.

Perhaps a compression test may be worthwhile to help you partly assess the engine`s condition..?
Posted By: britmog

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 06:24 PM

When I start mine using the choke and put the choke in once it has started it takes about 8-10 minutes (depending on ambient temps) to warm up before it will idle correctly and will stall at idle before it has warmed. Have you tried a new coil, they can be fickle creatures? My comment above still holds, they are simple things to check and adjust and can make a difference. I also assume that the plugs colour and condition are correct?
Posted By: Ian Wegg

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by MOR404
Bruce The initial problem was stalling whilst idling not pinking.

Indeed, Bruce was reading the original post by "SCX358G" Dave with the '69 +4. We haven't heard from him since, I wonder if he fixed it?
Posted By: Ian Wegg

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 08:00 PM

Originally Posted by Paul F
I vaguely remember being told that Weber carbs fitted to Ford engines had a typical life expectancy around 40,000 miles

My 4/4 on TWIN Webers is about to clock up 39,000 miles. I've just had a look at the price of replacements. scared
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 08:05 PM

Luddite my car ran perfectly up to three months ago before spending the summer abroad. When I came back it ran ok the first time but developed the problem the second time I used it. I intend to fit a manual joke instead of the automatic .
Posted By: Gambalunga

Re: Idling puzzle - 05/10/19 10:31 PM

Originally Posted by Ian Wegg
Originally Posted by Paul F
I vaguely remember being told that Weber carbs fitted to Ford engines had a typical life expectancy around 40,000 miles

My 4/4 on TWIN Webers is about to clock up 39,000 miles. I've just had a look at the price of replacements. scared

You could always fit a set of throttle bodies hide
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 06/10/19 08:00 AM

Thought you might find this link interesting if this is your engine type..?

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=18247
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 06/10/19 11:08 AM

Could it be the ht leads.
Posted By: Button

Re: Idling puzzle - 06/10/19 07:36 PM

Based on My long term experience, I would suspect an Electrical problem first and than a carb problem second.
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/10/19 06:50 AM

MOR404, You typed that the problem occurred the second time you used the car after some months(?) of being laid up... which MIGHT suggest the lay-up was not the issue, or the conditions prevalent during storage..?

HT leads can and do fail though not with any regularity. Not too expensive or complex to replace anyway, have you checked in the dark for HT leakage..?

Perhaps a furl issue as fuel can degrade over lay-up or you fuelled up with some poor fuel, which is unusual though possible.

If your engine is of the sonic idle type, find out how that aspect operated as I have no idea.. I am pre-sonic idle..(-:

Good luck.
Posted By: clubsport

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/10/19 04:19 PM

Manual choke is the way to go, they never worked well when new.

My '75 4/4 has always had a manual choke, you don't need it out for very long at all on the move.

You can check the resistance of ht leads using a multimeter. You tend to find problems with individual leads, so can pin point any issues by removing them one at a time.

It's never easy to assess running issues online, but my own 4/4 was not running great once up to temp. Replacing the dizzy cap cured the issue, upon examination I found a hair line crack in the old one.

It is relatively cheap to replace ignition components you may as well replace them if they are not recent.

From memory a set of Ht leads = £20-25

Dizzy cap and rotor (if required) = £10

NGK plugs = £6

Coil = £15

The above list is not far off an hours labour for a mechanic?

Assuming your points or electronic ignition is sparking and your timing is right, after replacing that lot, any running issues are likely to be down to the fueling side?

Good luck
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 07/10/19 06:45 PM

Clubsport, that which you describe as a crack in the dizzy cap, could well be a... track... which can be created as the result of a high resistance elsewhere when condensation inside the cap can provide a less resistive alternate path, once the path is initially established, it is possible that carbon builds up creating the track and can etch it`s way into the surface of the plastic to look like a crack... Electricity like water, will ever take the least line of resistance, or if you prefer the easiest route.. Of course you may well already know this..
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 08/10/19 07:39 PM

So today we replaced the distributor condenser and engined started without problems. I have taken all your suggestions and As I have indicated before, I replaced the coil, plugs, points, condenser, air filter , besides dismantling and cleaning the carb and now engine does not stall at 900 rpm on idling. Whilst on the way the car performed without any hitches. I am also converting the automatic choke to manual. My engine is fitted with a 4 in 1 exhaust and my mechanic is saying that probably my engine is also fitted with an upgraded camshaft. He set the timing and the car runs fine without any smoke. The purpose I am giving these details is to ask how would one know that the camshaft is not standard. I could not contact the precious owner to confirm. When we checked the timing marks with the strobe these were way out of line but he said that this does not matter once the engine is tuned and running well. I am not technical so I am asking your opinion whether this is the case. Thanks everyone for your input
Posted By: Button

Re: Idling puzzle - 08/10/19 08:40 PM

I am mystified as You about various cams. My Mentor and Mechanic can tell a modified cam. I cannot. I am told that one of the reasons a Rover V8 in a Morgan responds very well to cam modifications. Seems the Rover cam is designed for a heavy SUV. If the Modified Cam is designed for a Morgan +8 it will be much more responsive and suitable for a Light Sports Car. There are other factors but frankly I am too inexperienced to identify them. When I changed from a Carb to an aftermarket EFI that was not designed for emission Laws My +8 Bitsa came alive. Not sure I have any more horsepower but the character of the engine now matches the needs of a Light Sports Car better than it did. I am now tempted to install a modified cam and try for more improvement.
Posted By: Luddite

Re: Idling puzzle - 08/10/19 09:21 PM

MOR404, if I read you correctly your car is running fine, though a good condition and properly tuned standard engine should run smoothly at circa 750rpm, though an engine that has been tuned may not run smoothly at low revs. A change of camshaft can alter where the maximum power is generated in the rev range.. If a higher performance cam has been fitted then perhaps higher compression pistons too also the distributor advance curve may also have been adjusted to suit, though if any or all of that has been done I might expect the carb would have been changed for one with a larger throat(s) and jets, though if it had been tuned to that degree I would expect it would be wearing a pair of sidedraught Webers.

Trying to determine which cam might be fitted to an engine may not be too easy to determine exactly.. Fitting a degree disc to the crankshaft and measuring the amount of lift and duration of one of the inlet valves and likewise for one of the exhaust valves, can be then compared to a chart of various camshaft types that one might expect to find in a Kent engine from the cam grinders of the time, such as Piper etc.

When you say the timing marks are off.... you are using a strobe, but first to be sure one would ideally confirm the static and pulley marks do indeed determine Top Dead Centre TDC... But we are getting into things you are unlikely to be involved in..?

I am guessing your mechanic swung the dizzy to get maximum revs while idling then perhaps backed it of just a tad to get the engine running as it does at present, though did you check the mechanical operation of the bobweights in the dizzy and of course the vacuum operation too...I take it that you also lubricated the dizzy centre spindle ...? Have you carried out a compression test, to compare the cylinders against each other for balance.(similar readings).?

Mr Button, I have no idea if all the V8`s Morgan received were from the Land/Range Rover production line or if some were picked up from the Rover SD1 production line which may have a different cam and carb set up from the mud plugger, more so if any came from a Vitesse SD1 I suspect a check of the engine numbers may give a clue as to the state of tune, including compression ratios...?
Posted By: Button

Re: Idling puzzle - 09/10/19 02:30 AM

"Mr Button, I have no idea if all the V8`s Morgan received were from the Land/Range Rover production line or if some were picked up from the Rover SD1 production line which may have a different cam and carb set up from the mud plugger, more so if any came from a Vitesse SD1 I suspect a check of the engine numbers may give a clue as to the state of tune, including compression ratios...?"

Now that is a thought. I will attempt to explore this this Winter. I do know that all Rover V8's do not perform the same. Some are very good and some are rather poor. I do know the 3.9 I have now. Came from a Morgan. Is much better than the 3.5 I had a Machinist build for Me using Buick 215 Specs. It had a Rover/Morgan block and Buick 215 heads. Actually this 3.9 engine Is about all I can handle in My +8 Bitsa. I am happy with it.
Posted By: britmog

Re: Idling puzzle - 09/10/19 03:20 PM

Glad that you finally seemed to have got it sorted. As I said previously the timing is never as it should be on these engines and the marks are normally way off that is why it is good to establish TDC and set your timing from there. In my case it was a good 10 degrees out and now I have the TDC marked with white paint and the correct timing set from that point.
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 09/10/19 05:38 PM

Thank you all
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 13/10/19 08:37 AM

I was still not happy with how the car is working so yesterday I decided to take off the carb again and inspect myself alone in my workshop. Also I wanted to read the exact model markings on the side of the base. I left all the settings as they were and upon moving the throttle linkages I noticed there are times when the throttle stop screw does not touch the lever. At this time the opening of the butterfly on the primary throttle shaft is open the thickness of a folded paper and also at this point the choke is closed. Is this normal. When I turn the linkage again it touches the stop screw. is there something wrong there which is causing the problem on idling. I tried to follow my Morgan workshop manual but have not managed to identify what could be wrong. My carb is a Weber 32 DGAV. I left the auto choke pipe connection with the three screws on the car.
Posted By: TBM

Re: Idling puzzle - 13/10/19 09:35 AM

I had an issue with the idling on mine - would run perfectly, then would die at every junction and roundabout. Sometimes I could get it to 'not stall' with a little bit of choke. Always easy to start straight away.

Turns out it was the idle jet (the one facing the bonnet) that was continually clogging. Mine had sat for ages before I bought it and can only assume there was some flash rust in the tank than was being dislodged - small enough to get through the standard mahle filters but big enough to clog the idle.

I fitted a new 'cleanable' glass fuel filter, and carry a can of carb cleaner and a spare idle jet (in case I drop it when cleaning).. Quick roadside remove of jet from carb and out of the holder, good squirt of cleaner and back to normal.

The new filter seriously reduced the number of blockages (I was getting one every time I filled the tank) and with extended use I now appear to have flushed the bulk of the crud out of the tank. I've only had the problem occur once in the last 6 months or so. Easy fixed at roadside.
Posted By: britmog

Re: Idling puzzle - 17/10/19 12:39 AM

Thought you might find this article useful?

https://www.racetep.com/weberadj.html
Posted By: MOR404

Re: Idling puzzle - 17/10/19 05:06 PM

Thank you Britmog. I just printed a copy to take to my garage. I now think that the car is running as it should, but with those instructions I can do the tuning myself.
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