Loctite 263 might be a better bet as it is virtually permanent. Don’t think you will have much room to get a nut on, and even if you do it may weaken the fixing into the top part as there are not many threads to play with.
Brake cleaner was pretty much the first thing I came to know as absolutely necessary in a workshop. When I was at White Power in Holland for a service training course for suspension struts and motorbike forks, this was also pointed out to me again and again.
2005 4/4 1800ccm Duratec and a lot of HONDA CX500.......
Rear damper reattached, the damper rod treaded back into top mount no problem, I was concerned it had pulled the threads but the threads were good, a few drops of Granville thread locker should stop it winding out again.
Removed the wheel, cleaned up and de-greased the spinner, hub, & wheel splines. Re-greased with fresh grease, reassembled, tightened and all good
Checked the remaining three spinners for tightness and all good, set tyre pressures and went for a test drive. Monty is back to feeling tight as a drum and he's completely rattle free too,.
I call that a successful weekend of Morgan maintenance
Some time ago, one of my friends also had a noise from the rear wheel area, and it was the brake drum loose. Unlike conventional wheels which hold the drum on by virtue of the wheel nuts, with wires of course, there is no contact. So we rely on the 4 set screws and star washers. In his case, they were indeed loose, so always worth checking whenever the wheels are removed. When replacing, I always apply a drip of medium hold locktite to the threads to be on the safe side.