Just trailered Bluebelle back from dealer. Rear sprocket was getting gradually eaten down, the belt was fraying and the noise was incredibly loud. Undrivable.
Front sprocket is steel and about a month ago a flange was added to that as the belt was drifting off too much and getting frayed. Took the car back after the noise started to really get obnoxious. Lost about 1/16th inch of aluminum on the rear end and that will change the belt tension which will aggravate the noise as well as eat the aluminum faster.
They replaced the rear sprocket as well as the rear spindle that holds it all together, added a flange and changed the belt. Good as new. Actually better as I can hardly hear any belt action and the bevel box seems quieter as well. So, basically, I have the new upgraded 2013 parts on my 2012.
The rear wheel appears to be closer to centered now instead of offset.
I am hoping that the next time I am at the dealer, it will be to change out all the tires next year. I have over 5500 miles on them and they are easily able to double that and a bit more. They are wearing evenly but I like to punch it here as the roads are nice and twisty and there are a few very nicely graded turns where drifting is easy and much fun!
Oh yeah, I swapped out the alternator/rectifier almost immediately and replaced it with the H-D unit WITHOUT rubber bushings. They are not necessary. The Cycle Electric unit is known for being delicate, or, as I would sum up, a P.O.S. 'Nuff said.
That is aalllllllll........
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
This is a straight swap. As can be seen, I used oversized nuts on the connecting bolts to create a stand-off. I have found that it is unnecessary. The unit never even gets warm.
I, ahem, researched this thoroughly. Found myself being adopted by a large bike pack and while at a rest stop I asked them how their units were bolted on. Without exception, all were just bolted to the frames with no rubber.
Last edited by Michael H; 14/09/1309:30 AM.
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
Most bikes would have the rectifier bolted onto the frame - not sure why the mog would have rubbers - does anyone know the facts?
Even on Cycle Electric's site there is no mention of the rubber blocks or even any way to purchase them. Looks like this was done by MM on their own initiative. It doesn't appear to be necessary or useful. All of the electronics are solid state and embedded in epoxy. You could probably take a hammer to it and not hurt it but it appears susceptible to internal electrical damage.
Facts would be nice but as long as the H-D unit works, I've other things to mess with!
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
