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Joined: Dec 2008
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DaveW Offline OP
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After a pleasant family Saturday with my daughter in Derby, I awoke Sunday morning with full blown General Malaise - level 4.
Aching bones, dry mouth, headache, runny eyes, runny nose, you get the picture, and it was not all alcohol induced either. So after beating a retreat home, I've spent Sunday, Monday and Tuesday being tended to, either on the sofa or in bed. It wasn't until this morning that I could face up to the garage.

My first job was to replace the revcounter. The planned switch didn't work at Shelsley so it's been done remotely.
The following photo shows the instrument, which is designed to fit 'many' cars, and is tuned by selecting the appropriate micro switches. You'll see that the original has 8 switches but the replacement only has four, thus ruling out a like for like swop. Anyway it's fitted and so far is working fine. There is one other thing to note, the instrument is held bu a U shaped metal bracket and two knurled and threaded nuts. The bracket is slightly oversize and works far better with a half inch or less hacksawed off each end. Original to the left:


To gain access, drop the steering column to its low point, remove three crosshead screws between the column and the A post and you can slide your hand up and under.
There are 'several' spare wires and plugs cable tied to the securing bracket.


This is the view under the dash in that corner looking straight up. The red & black wires are to the panel rheostat. The roll hoop is very evident. Lots of electricity in this corner. You can see the feeds to the main fuse box on the bulkhead.


Looking along the dash towards the nearside. The other instruments are visible, as is the wiper rack housing at the top. Surprisingly dusty but I suspect that some of this will be MMC dust.


This is looking up and right towards the A post. There is a main 12v feed post junction (same on my Roadster) and a seperate junction box which can be fixed to a panel, but not in this application. The main fuse box is just the other side of here, on the bulkhead under the bonnet.


While I was under there I tightened the two fasteners for the screen frame - different sizes, then did the other side.
Under the passenger side, and what surprised me was that the glove box has a metal base - might even be stainless steel.


This is looking towards the offside, and there are plenty of spare connectors. Also visible is the 12v power socket, and the diagnostic plug.


The problem - is that plug, when fitted properly is too close to the top of the handbrake. So I've pushed it in slightly without losing it into the dash. Note also that 'MMC?' has used 3mm standard density self adhesive neoprene to cover the metal brackets which hold the dash base in place. They are now covered in leather, Ha!

Those fuses under the dash are smaller than standard bayonet - research is needed.

More to follow............ thumbs


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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DaveW Offline OP
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So my next job was............


When I bought one of these for the Roadster, the red was a perfect match. This time not quite so lucky, the yellow is more of a number plate yellow.

So, here's the spare:


And now......








Because it doesn't quite match I'm wondering if I should have gone for black. Anyway I can always get one and compare.
The dimensions for the 4/4 wheel are diameter of circle 322mm, diameter of hole 165mm. Available from 'The Plastic Man', where I also get my windstop acrylic.
And at that point I stopped for today, but next job is the steering column cowl, so watch this space. thumbs


DaveW
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Very informative as always Dave.


JohnV6
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I've probably missed something here Dave- what is your reason for changing the tacho? Gerry.


Gerry
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DaveW Offline OP
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It had a fault Gerry - once warm it wouldn't go above 1,400rpm.
(and idled at about 50rpm).
Although I like seeing 1,400rpm "at speed" on the motorway, it's really hard to enjoy spirited driving without a revcounter. Try covering yours up completely and you'll see the problem.

Because I'm a long way from BHM, we planned the switch at Shelsley, but then discovered on the day that identical instruments have different numbers of switches. Which is why Nick sent me one through the post, and had I not had General Malaise, it would have been fitted on Sunday!!!!!!

It's been a theme this year because if you recall my test drive of the Lotus at Williams, there was a similar problem and it was impossible to gauge on the road as a result.


DaveW
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Must fit my black wheel blank to the 'new' car.
Fuses - are they the 'Mini' Blade rather than 'Standard' or 'Maxi'?

Cheers,


Graham (G4FUJ)

Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
'09 Gen2 MINI Cooper ragtop
'90 LR 90 SW
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DaveW Offline OP
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I didn't take a close look Graham but they appear to be maybe just over half standard size, so 'Mini' would describe them. Probably in 'that' catalogue - can't recall the name.

Just looked - vehicle wiring products - they must be the 11mm mini blades. Better get some ordered!!!

Last edited by DaveW; 09/10/13 04:30 PM. Reason: Checked......

DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Yup,
VWP - also do small boxes of the different sized fuses.
Easy to tell what you have smile


Graham (G4FUJ)

Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
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Dave, the pictures of the under dash fuses, plugs etc: all looks a bit diy?


Martin (Deano)
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Great photos Dave. Looking at all the spare terminals I wonder if to save costs, Morgan uses the same wiring loom for all their Trads. Quite intrigued as to what functions the spare ones would have.

That brown cable in Picture 5 looks a bit worrying...the insulation looks a bit suspect, or is it just dirt?


Jays
Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
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