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#169714 07/12/13 08:39 AM
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Does anyone out there have a petrol guage that gives a meaningfull reading?


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No, because the sender unit, in the tank, does not reach the bottom, therefore, it will show empty even though there is still 12" or so of fuel sloshing around, that works out at around 2 -3 gallons, taking both tanks into consideration.

Sounds like it should be listed in the improvements thread?

BTW, welcome to TM and the Three Wheeler forum, please be active, all comments and questions are welcome.


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Totally reliable; always reads 100% when the tank has just been brimmed. Does get slightly less precise after that though.

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Originally Posted By RedThree
Totally reliable; always reads 100% when the tank has just been brimmed. Does get slightly less precise after that though.


An excellent summing up!



What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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This makes the Roadster fuel gauge seem wonderful.

The tanks shows full until it is about 2/3 empty and then the needle drops rapidly until when it reads empty there is about 10L left. So the sender doesn't reach the bottom of the tank either...

Me, I use the trip as a second "gauge", after 250 miles fill up ASAP, about 50 miles left. Perhaps.


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As you'll see from other threads - the gauges may not be accurate in absolute terms, but they do seem to be consistent in their inaccuracy.... Mine always shows 100% when brimmed, 0% at about 170-180 miles driven and I fill up as Aldermog says, at 250 miles also. Doesn't seem to be much affected by how I drive either, which is interesting. Most of us on here are bikers of old, so we're used to driving to a trip meter rather that solely on a fuel gauge.

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+1 ;))


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+2 thumbs


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100 miles And indicaded 0%
I hope there is à lot of miles to do again ...perhaps

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Mine's down to 0% after 100 miles or so too. Don't brim mine totally after I had the fuel starvation effect when brimming it which was a bit alarming for a few minutes.


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Mine also reads 0% after 100 miles . There have been several other threads on this topic . The general consensus is that the capacity is 42 ltrs ( my handbook says 55 ltrs ! )

I tend to fill up after around 200 miles , I think 250 is pushing it a bit as mine recently took 40 ltrs after 250 miles , so not much left .


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^ Glad you added that. Have gone 200 miles before fill up,( about 6 gals.), thought 300 or so might be the range. I watch the trip gauge ...
thumbs cheers







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More to the point, has anyone worked out a 'fix' yet? I'm wondering about extending the tube with some plastic pipe, if it is petrol proof, but because the sender\float arrangement slides up and down on a couple of wires, it looks really difficult to do as the wires won't extend easily, and to date I haven't had any other ideas.


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How about VDO p/n 224011000280G? Its 280mm long rather than 240mm that is fitted, the max tank depth is 290mm, so a little clearance and "reserve" rather than 20 lt or so that we have now.


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Good call, but £52................? Gulp!


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Probably about the same as the value of the fuel unaccounted for smile


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Hi All
Have a look at VDO tank senders from Merlin Motorsport, it's the same as what is fitted and can be purchased in 10mm increments.
This is one of the jobs I will be doing during the winter lay-up.
Why MMC do not fit one with a more sensible length is beyond me as a 280mm one is the same price as a 240mm one. £52.35 + veg 'n' taties.

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Thanks v much DoOp thats a grt idea/fix!!:))


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Try www.europaspares.com as they are a bit cheaper for this item than Merlin. I have one on order that I got with their pre Christmas sale with an extra 10% discount....it's the Scottish genes in me. I will let you know if it works as I hope it should. All we will need then is a fix for 8% over reading speedometer.


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Originally Posted By PaulJ
No, because the sender unit, in the tank, does not reach the bottom, therefore, it will show empty even though there is still 12" or so of fuel sloshing around, that works out at around 2 -3 gallons, taking both tanks into consideration.

Sounds like it should be listed in the improvements thread?


I mentioned something about better gauge options in the improvement thread, although I did not contribute until the thread was about 6 pages deep.


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I was so upset with the fuel guage - it is utterly useless and in my reckoning - a compulsive liar. Solution - brim tanks (spill at least 1-2 litres all over forecourt in process)- reset trip and drive a maximum of 250 miles. Then refill. I got to 287 once and ran out so I keep a 5 litre can under the bonnet for emergencies - fits well with a bungy and some Velcro.
All is sweet now I ignore it.

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I have ordered a 280mm sender from Europa spares, I'll keep everyone posted when it arrives and is fitted.

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The sender I ordered a couple of weeks ago is on "backorder" still but may arrive soon they say. Europa must be wondering about the sudden demand for 280mm VDO fuel senders.


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BINGO! a fuel gauge that actually works.

Today I fitted the 280mm tank sender. Fuel gauge came off 0% with 11 ltrs of fuel in tank and read 51% with 23 ltrs. Which gives a useful reserve of 10-11 ltrs or 50-60 miles.

A mod that is well worth the effort and expense.

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Great to hear!


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Glad it works !

Something else for Morgan to fit on the 2014 models .


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Nice job!



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Dab,

In looking up that part number ( 224011000280G) all I can find are European distributors. Local US vendors show 224-228 as the part number for a 280mm sender.
Does your box show the impedance? ie (90-0 ohm)?


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I think 224-228 is the catalog number and 224011000280G is the part number (from VDO website) Summit carries it as does California Imports Ltd. (www.cip1.com) which had best price I could find.

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Hi Redneck

It just came in a cardboard tube with some basic installation instructions, sorry no impedance values.

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Ok thanks..... Will give it a try


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My sender has arrived today after a several days in the Christmas mail system. The resistance values in the specification show 0 - 90 ohms but the real values of both senders are 3 ohms full and 75 ohms empty with a linear change between. As mentioned by "Dab", it gives you about 10 lt reserve when 0% is indicated, far more useful indications. Why don't they fit the 280mm unit from new?


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is it difficult to change the senders? Do I need special tools? read

:xmascheers:

Achim


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It's an easy job to replace the fuel sender. All you need are two Allen keys, a 3mm one for the luggage tray removal and a 4mm one for the sender screws.


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I wonder if there is a market out there for used 220mm tank senders? We probably know where there are quite a few.

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Originally Posted By Dab of oppo
I wonder if there is a market out there for used 220mm tank senders? We probably know where there are quite a few.


Perhaps Morgan WAS the market smile


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For a tech sheet on the VDO 280 mm gauge, Merlin Motorsport's web page for this unit has a "Technical Info" button that takes you to the PDF file for it:

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/files/transfer/technical/doc/vdodiptubespec.pdf

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Just ordered my 280 mm VDO fuel sender from CIP1.com for US $61 including shipping (no tax applied as I am out of state).

Note: these are marine grade units meant for yachts.

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Originally Posted By ferrisl


Note: these are marine grade units meant for yachts.


That may be handy for us in the UK at the moment, lots of rain and floods.


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I decided to removed the shell of my scarab to solve different problems insolvent and failed yet , and I also discovered that an electrical cable was crushed this may be the problem is faulty fuel gauge , it will be also avoided electric arc PARTY 2014 , I recommend that everybody allieurs control electric faisseau to this place and that there is no paint on the ground point , it is best to self meme things when we can , because if Aisse must have his vehicle whenever there is a problem we no longer runs the day repair is longer than the time in working as atentes the warranty are very long, so I decided to take the bull by the horns as some hard problems for over three months and I will Still not when they are settled. if it continues like this I likely to serve me a year of my vehicle on the first two years , the real novelty in 2014 morgan would also éfficasse after sales service, we do not sewn mouth from morgan and Dealers .I attached picture




http://imageshack.us/a/img89/1663/ckzp.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/296/f0a9.jpg

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Thanks for the warning about the wire loom chaff problem and the photos, always good to hear of potential problems. A 5 minute check is better than a breakdown or worse. Brave move taking the body off, how long did it take and how many helpers did you need to lift it off? Not thinking of doing it (for many years) but it is good to know what is needed and things to look out for.


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A good watch point for owners. Thanks for sharing.


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It's a breeze for those who had to Forever usually dismantled its motorcycles , it takes less than two hours apart carrossrie the right , despite what weighs about 17 kg without the front cover and back, it would be possible to own the second time , the bodywork is attached with two screws btr 5 mm at the front under the hood, two screws btr 5 mm to the rear of the chassis extremmité the outer side and below four screws on the circles on each side at the same level of power cable crushed by the bodywork . Must be considered before disconnecting the battery, remove the oil and Looked tank, steering column, rear electric undoes faisseau , hoses and fuel filler canister screwed, only eight screws for fixing the bodywork on the chassis and 18 stainless steel pop rivets unpainted removed after the hardest is to blow the heads of the rivet itself without damaged plastic washers and the bodywork , why he drilled slowly (350 rpm ) with 4 mm drill bit to stumbled on the stainless steel nail, then again with a 5 mm drill (350 rpm ) until the head detaches itself, , , Is the most annoying pop placed near front triangle because it is necessary for the damper dismantled especially pierced in the axis of the rivet, will be removed more easily by following the rivets which have been weakened by the bore 4 mm.I'll see can be edited for a manual removal if I find two people, one to come up with are tw and another person filmed disassembly should only lasted less than 2 hours preparing everything in advance.Notice to interested amateurs to come with her ​​tw.

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the photo with the red arrow is where the electric cable rubs.Someone will have sent the photo to morgan to tell them that everything is fine and that is the only problem that I managed to find, and that is the only change that is nescésaire for the rest I would put the radio a little harder to not hear the mechanical noises.

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Thanks for all the body removal information and photos, it sounds fairly straight forward, although something I hope will not be needed for many years. I checked my wire loom route in the area you had problems and it looks OK. It goes through a cut out that yours must have missed on factory assembly, too tight through the P clips by the look of it. Nice Mustang, for those rainy days.


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Just installed my new 28cm Sender Unit and it really is an easy job. I bought the fitting kit which the website said was needed, but that only seems to be for a fresh install, not a replacement. Haven't driven the car yet (still 60mph winds and rain/hail here in the South at present), but it works and still shows 100% as expected (tanks full). Fingers crossed for a better and more accurate run when fuel gets used up.....

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I replaced my fuel sender with a VDO brand 280 mm unit from California Imports Limited www.cip1.com. Cost was $59

Installation was quite straight-forward. Be careful putting the steel screws back into the aluminum sheet metal - don't want to strip them.

The gauge now reads empty at about 180-190 miles. Much better than the 100 miles before, but there is still a gallon or two left. I am happy with this result, but if I would do it again, I would try a 290 mm unit.

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I also just received my 280mm unit from cip1. After filling up last time the
factory unit read 100%. After stopping for lunch, it stopped working and has
not worked for two weeks and approx. 150 miles.

Will report back after installing.

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Why wouldn't the wire loom be placed on the inside of the frame (no rubbing), is there something to prevent that?


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Have just ordered a 280mm sender from Eurospares -very helpful:)

will post again about this when fitted - sounds/looks like an easy fix:)) cheers


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I installed the new 280mm unit from cip1 yesterday. Big improvement. Looking inside the tank when installing I guessed 50% full. Gauge read 46% when installed.

Went for long ride of about 50 miles and gauge seemed to go down in 1-2% increments which is a big improvement. Original gauge would have been reading close to 0.

Good modification.

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Are we now sure that 280mm is the way forward?


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Why? It does fit and work.

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Fitted the 280mm sender - must be the easiest fix i have ever done on any car (or bike!) And works sooo much better as posted above! laugh2



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May you send a link or item name,part#

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Thank you,just ordered it.

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Q8 - when you fit it be very careful threading and tightening the bolts as it is very easy to strip the threads in the tank. One of my bolts had been over tightened by the factory and was spinning.


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Oh ok,thank you,ill keep that in mind

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I want to add another positive vote for the 280mm VDO fuel sender. I put mine in this morning in a relaxed half hour. The gauge was showing 66% with the 220mm unit and then showed 80% after installation of the 280mm unit. Good upgrade!

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See you are in Mesa. I am up in Carefree. If you drive(ride) North stop by.

Tom
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That's mine ordered


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I wonder when/if the factory will start fitting them ? Perhaps when they've used up existing stock .....


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HJP you may be right but they are learning in so many ways


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Surely they should be on J.I.T. and not stockpiling tank senders.

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Hi Tom,

Next time we run up to Pine for ice cream, I will let you know.

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Originally Posted By Dab of oppo
Surely they should be on J.I.T. and not stockpiling tank senders.


Suppliers might not be willing to do JIT for the small volumes that MMC operate to. Elsewhere there is a current thread that gives 2014 M3W production as 300 a year/25 a month/roughly 1 per working day, so it would only be economic for suppliers to do batch deliveries.


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Wow those Eurospares are fast, under 24 hours and delivered on a Saturday. A nice little job for a wet and wild day today.


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Presume you disconnected your battery before fitting the sender? Was there any electronic memory loss?

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Great point about the electronic memory loss.will it happen if we disconnect the battery?
how can we update the ecu if needed at home?

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I disconnect the battery regularly as I've not got power in the garage for a battery conditioner.

On reconnection it's fine, no loss of trip or mileage data but the clock does need to be reset.


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The fuel sender circuit is not powered when the ignition is off. There fore, I did not disconnect the battery.

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Recommend Eurospares too - v good service:)

No need to disconnect battery - but take precautions - ignition off - and disconnect positive first /connect neg/earth first when fitting etc - usual good practice stuff:))


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Did you mean Europaspares rather than Eurospares? Two very different companies.

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Originally Posted By m3boy
Recommend Eurospares too - v good service:)

No need to disconnect battery - but take precautions - ignition off - and disconnect positive first /connect neg/earth first when fitting etc - usual good practice stuff:))


Er, no. Negative/earth should be disconnected first.

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Yes Europaspares!sorry:((

Yes Neg/earth disconnected first - oops - had a bad day!! ooo


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Well, it could have been a far worse day if you had followed your own advice!


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mad


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Just arrived fun installation time
[url=[URL=http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/Q8morgan/media/image_zpsab555e3b.jpg.html][/url]][/url]

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From europa specialist spares ltd
Stock code 224011000280G
Vdo dip pipe sender 280mm £38

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Just before installtion

[url=[URL=http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/Q8morgan/media/image_zps8d58d768.jpg.html][/url]][/url]

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Vdo dip pipe sender 280mm £38


For those of us in the UK, we should add 20% for the dread Value Added Tax!

Does anyone know if the existing short tube can be modified? It may save some money if not too expensive eg cost up to £15 or so.


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Nice to see the cable now encased in a trunking and neatly clipped , mine is stuffed between the gauge and the wooden frame and was chafing away until I protected it .


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HJP,
What's your build number, last three of serial number ?
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Don't forget to remove the little pin that holds the float stationary during shipping.

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Hi Seeker ,
The number stamped under the seat is 334 , on the rear wooden frame it's 268 .
Hugh


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Yes thanks.i removed the pin

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Paul, having changed my 250mm sender for a 280mm one, I don't think there is a cheap or easy way to modify the original unit and be confident about it sitting in the petrol tank. Tempting as it may be it's not the best place to be trying things out...... I cannot understand why Morgan still fit a 250mm unit, other than it gives you about half a tank "reserve".


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Originally Posted By HJP
Hi Seeker ,
The number stamped under the seat is 334 , on the rear wooden frame it's 268 .
Hugh


Hi Hugh,
We've been finding those numbers are just a curiosity; my under seat frame number is 712, wood ash frame, 752. Production number 793 (last 3 of serial #), May 2013 build. I thought we might be close by production numbers ... guess not thinking
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Well Conrad , it's all pretty confusing to me !

The last 3 digits of VIN (serial?) # are 213 , I got it mid Sept 2012 .

Tally Ho ! is the perfect way to sign off smile

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I just swapped mine out yesterday. A bit of a fiddle but I just took my time. The new sender came with helpful instructions. Went from 0% to 41% and when i looked down in the tank there certainly was plenty of fuel left.

A lovely surprise awaited me under the boot. While my car was at the factory they had chafed the tiny fiddly little screws that hold in the parcel tray / mudguard. Hey presto they now have hex machine screws that fit into threads in the frame, much better.


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I too changed my "fiddly little screws" which fold the Boot in place soon after I had my car for Hex wood screws - sooo much easier to use! BTW they cost me £1 for a bag full of about 20 from a local shop!:))) rofl

Last edited by m3boy; 11/03/14 06:22 AM.

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But the factory went a step further and put machined "receptors" into the wood frame


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They are now the standard fit. My car, number 700, had them from new.


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Maybe my M3W's number is not 700 as I though, that's the number that is stamped under the seat, on the bulkhead , boot lid etc. The last three on the VIN is 799, quite a difference.


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I am sure the hard-stamped number under the seat is the best one to use, as the last 3 digits of the VIN number seem spurious at best and we know the story about the number in the wood under the boot being higher than the chassis' due to 'wastage'. I consider mine No.729 (under seat) and this has the inset mounts for the boot liner screws.

For what it's worth, by Ash Frame no. is 795 and VIN Digits 763....

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Well my wooden frame is lower than the number under the seat ...
Vin 213 , under seat 334 , wooden frame 268 .

All very confusing !


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The number under the RHS seat is the Chassis number:))


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I think we need to loosely agree to use the chassis number and hopefully we can agree?


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Just ordered from europaspares, thanks for the link Blackadder! I'll be back when it arrives and I can't work out what to do with it wink

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Got my gauge today and just fitted it, fuel has gone from 0% to 68%!!!

Very happy with that. My only mistake was pulling the old one out too fast, and spilling petrol everywhere.

A bit worried about how the belt looks when I took the rear cover off though (first time I've done that). Is this normal? Should I push or bash it back on? Seems to be possible by hand...




Hate those rusty wheel nuts!!

And... What is the black cylindrical part under the fuel filler, and should the black pipe hanging off it be connected to something?


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The belt looks worrying,you should do the upgrades if the factory/dealer is close by.sprocket is the first version

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My belt used to run in about that position on the original sprocket which wore out in around 4000 miles , as Q8 says the later sprocket sorts this out as it has a lip on each side .

The black pipe is the same on mine , I presume it's meant to be like that !
I think it's some sort of filter and the pipe is the vent .


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Regardless of single sided guide or dual sided guides on the rear sprocket, that belt is not tracking correctly and needs to be addressed very soon. It looks like it's about 1/4 off the pulley.

In the case of the M3W it can be caused by two things, a twisted rear axle, in this case the right side of the axle would need to be moved forward a bit to bring the belt back onto the rear pulley. If this had dual side guides, the belt would be pushing to the outside guide and would wear the edge of the belt quite badly.

The other possible cause is a bevel box alignment. I'm not sure if that is an option or not, but if you only have two sprockets, it has to be one of them that's out of alignment.

My money would be on the rear wheel needing to be aligned to bring back the belt to the center of the rear sprocket.

Is this type of maintenance listed or shown in the owners manual?


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The canister is a charcoal filter to stop petrol smells and vapours escaping, all to do with emissions legislation and the tube is just a vent pipe to stop the fuel tanks vacuuming as the fuel pump sucks the petrol out.

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Replaced first version of sprocket with new one. Belt is now aligned but i fear it helps in producing the high pitched noise with bevel box above 3500 rpm

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Thanks for the replies guys

I sent the pictures to my dealer and spoke to him on the phone: the explanation is that the first 500 cars have rear wheels that are slightly off centre, and for those cars the rear belt is "always like that".

I'm not convinced... but seems like there is not much that can be done

On the positive side, he's doing comfort pack upgrades and I can get one done in 2 weeks time :-)

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VSpec - the belts on early cars do often look like that. scared IMHO its not right!Plus the belt will try to spin off to that position even if you centre it on the Drive sprocket. We spent all one afternoon centering the tyre/sprocket/belt only to have to put it all back again - as the belt fouled the chassis when the wheel was central:(( shocked2
There is a fix - its a new double sided drive belt assembly which holds the belt in place and stops this spinning off issue. laugh2
The 3W will be ok like it is IMHO - and is a problem with some Harleys I am told.
BUT best to get the fix. Hope this helps:)) cheers

Last edited by m3boy; 18/03/14 11:30 AM.

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VSpecs - i have a very early model and the factory recommended to change the sprocket + hub and bearing which i did.

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Nadvys - was that at your expense? Is it costly?

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Vspec - my expense , 1500 eur incl VAT , 4 manhours..
i can give you details of parts

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Just received my 280mm sender from eurospares, fuel gauge has gone from 12% upto 63%, that the best part of £50 spent just to get the correct fuel reading on a £30k+ car, if i tried telling anyone outside of the Morgan world i'm sure they wouldn't believe me!!!!
Just need an empire kit, rear sprocket, and a steering wheel that doesn't bend !!


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hugo,
can you provide me the part and website where to order it....I also want to get a gauge who is more reliable than the factory one.

many thanks in advance crazy2



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Sticky thread please forum admin - 'Must Have Parts' ?

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The website is www.europaspares.com and it is a VDO part, p/n 224011000280G. It's an easy job to replace it. Although the accuracy is better than the original 240mm sender, in that it doesn't show 0% with half a tank or more of fuel, it is not "normal car" accurate. I still reset the trip distance when I fill up and look for fuel at 200 miles or so.


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Originally Posted By hugo
Just received my 280mm sender from eurospares, fuel gauge has gone from 12% upto 63%, that the best part of £50 spent just to get the correct fuel reading on a £30k+ car, if i tried telling anyone outside of the Morgan world i'm sure they wouldn't believe me!!!!
Just need an empire kit, rear sprocket, and a steering wheel that doesn't bend !!


Have you already got the centa drive, cooling kit, new rectifier position and upgraded bobbins then? wink

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Vspec....yes all the thing you have mentioned plus a 2014 chassis, can you believe the gearknob was held on by wrapping tape around the top of gear stick !


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"can you believe the gearknob was held on by wrapping tape around the top of gear stick"

Yes, I can, it's a Morgan and it depends on who made it. I'm not saying that is the way it should be of course, and if they were proper car makers it wouldn't be like that, but ......... ooo


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Thank you planenut thumbs


Cheers,
Georges

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Got mine from Demon Tweaks £50.46 delivered with neoprene gasket, fitted 3 weeks ago.
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport...-for-vdo-gauge.
Its better than before but still erratic, at 200 miles got 35 litres in when showing about 10%. At 235 miles 29 litres showing 4%. I still zero the trip on filling.

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Ordered mine today...


Cheers,
Georges

M3W, Super Dry edition, sep. 2013 ...called 'DogNose'
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