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Tricky Dicky
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Originally Posted By DaveW
Thin rubber gloves Thomas - whip them off for the photos - but I've gone through half a box so far in three days.

Liquid nitrogen is a bit thin on the ground hereabouts Martin innocent

To update the story on the brake pad springs and pins - the lead provided by Caparo has led nowhere so I've re-contacted Caparo. The 'Agent' wasn't interested and was unlikely to stock the springs and pins anytime soon.

Having done a bit more research, the unavailability of these items is typical across the classic car scene. The design is AP but commonly used across the BL/Rover range in different sizes. All is not lost because I've just taken delivery of a set of classic Land Rover (RR) rears. These are the right shape, but just 4.4mm too wide. At least I can file them down if necessary.

But I'm now on the case so watch this space. There was a problem with the MGRV8 a while ago when these springs were not available. Despite the weight of MG specialists it took a lot of effort to get these remade. There are also stories on Land Rover forums where the spring clips have rotted away and the pads have dislodged. Peter is absolutely right that the springs should be renewed with the pads. But with Morgans, how many get pad changes? That's clearly why dealers don't stock the parts and don't seem interested. You would also hope that the springs and pins would come with new pads, but it seems that this is not the case.

Anyway........
To finish off, a reminder of some spanner sizes:(Not thread sizes!)
Caliper bolts: 3/4"AF
Hub Nut: 1&1/4"AF
Track Rod End: 9/16"AF
Dmper top & bottom: 9/16"AF (Top also requires Allen Key if nut sticks).
Lower reaction bar - all 1/2"AF (Three on chassis & 1 on lower tube).
Bottom of kingpin: 3/4"AF
Lower damper mount to stub axle: 1&3/16"AF
Top (kingpin) lube bolt: 1&3/16"AF

That's it for now!


I have a spare set of springs should you like them give us a pm with details.

I used bolts and locking nuts on my Sport when I replaced the pads due to a delamination - I also have a spare set of those you are welcome to.

Morgan Part No:- MBS0675 gets you the springs and split pins which are too short for the Caparo caliper but not the Lockheed as fitted to earlier models such as my Plus 8.
This set was in stock at my (ex) dealer Berrybrook.

The Ferodo Premier range Part FDB832 includes the pads, springs and split pins that are suitable for my Plus 8, but again the split pins will be redundant for yours.



Last edited by 4/4sportsfun; 15/10/14 09:44 PM.

2009 4/4 Henrietta
1999 Indigo Blue +8
2009 4/4 Sport Green prev
1993 Connaught Green +8 prev





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Drive on the Wild Side
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Great write up Dave, very tidy. thumbs if you sources one of the pad retaining clips please let me know and I will order some spares, just in case. cheers


Adrian

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DaveW Offline OP
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I'll repeat this from the other thread - Brake Component Part Numbers: A bit more information now:

Caparo spring & pin part number: HCK215

Morgan "genuine parts" number for spring clips MBS 0675 (Thanks Richard)

Now here's the best bit. Spring clips are available from Rimmer Bros:
QP2740 is 1 spring clip - Rover SD1 - 2 piston caliper. £1.60 each (incl VAT) and you need four.
Or STC8574P, which is Retaining kit, rear brake pads (aftermarket). Includes 4 clips and 4 split pins (you don't need the split pins). £3.90 incl VAT
So the set is cheaper than buying four clips seperately.

The special retaining pins are Caparo only so it looks like that will be a factory order unless you replace with bolts.



DaveW
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Yesterday and today I continued - first assembling the offside and the moving on to the nearside. I've decided to replace the pads with Greenstuff, which I'm happy with on the Roadster.

So - first I greased up the Mulfab bearing. It slots over the top and is a perfect fit.


Next the dust cover and bump stop was assembled and slotted over the top of the spring. I used the dust covers from the Roadster - I replaced them with new ones when I did the kingpins, then cleaned & repainted the old ones for the next job. The bump stop is a simple length of rubber hose which is a tight fit in the top of the dust cover.


Next I sprayed rust inhibiting wax into the cross tubes:


Note here the flimsier looking lower mount which was modified to accommodate the adjustable camber plates.


I also dribble a small amount of oil into the track rod end.
At this point it's coming on nicely and is ready for the disc. All nuts and bolts are checked twice. It's very easy when you are familiar with a job to forget something important!


And here we are back together apart from the pads........


More to follow.......


DaveW
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Once again, excellent reporting and photos. Well done Dave.


Best Regards
Lang may yer lum reek
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DaveW Offline OP
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There are different ways of pulling the stub axle into position. Using a long top bolt is a very good way, but I've settled on my two threaded rod method. It doesn't need spring compressors and the only tricky part is locating the lower nut on the kingpin - because I prefer to get the top lube bolt started early. The only thing to watch is when the top of the stub meets the dust cover on the way up. It may need a bit of persuasion to slot inside, but on this occasion it went in easily.


So today I started on the nearside:
First those pesky pad retaining clips......I found a suitable sized drift, but because the pads had pushed out slightly the pins were stiff to get out.



Here you can see the lips over the edge of the disc:





I thought I could get away with retracting the pads without taking some fluid out of the M/Cyl.
But Bumble peed on the floor! Or rather on the rubber mat........



Ready for lowering:



Here's the disc and you can see that it doesn't have the extra bolts on this side because there is no sensor on this side.


The kingpin was worse on this side than the other:





Again, the first bush was a challenge to get out, even though I hacksawed four slots in it this time, but not quite far enough!
But the Mulfab tool made short work of the second bush.



Then the new bushes went in easily. First the lower:


Then the upper:



This photo shows how the lower valance and tray seals off the front of the car from road dirt:



And finally, I painted the stub axle, ready for reaming tomorrow.



The sideways photos will rotate by tomorrow - a quirk of photobucket. thumbs


DaveW
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tbh - I'd rather have pads that over hang the disc than pads that don't meet the edge of the disc, that way you do not get a rusty crusty ridge on the end of the disc.

But that said it may be that the pads are not fully located down and held down by the retaining springs in the first place.

It'll be interesting to see what you find when reassembling with new springs and pads.


Mark - No Longer driving
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Superb information and read as ever. Thanks.


Richard
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Talk Morgan Guru
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Originally Posted By Richard - Aus
Superb information and read as ever. Thanks.

+1
Excellent write up Dave. Thank you


A Morgan Identified Fastidious Owner...
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+2


JohnV6
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