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Paul,
How about putting a dab of white Tippex (typewriter correction fluid) on the side of one of the sprocket teeth and another dab on the belt. Then run the car until you hear/feel the skipping. Then look to see whether the two white dabs of Tippex are still in line or have moved. That will prove whether the belt is skipping teeth or whether the issue has another cause.
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As you say Dan, a skipping sensation is what it must be, not actual jumping of teeth or coupling rubbers. I suspect some sort of winding up and release suddenly when traction is lost momentarily. Can you tell me which type of coupling Centa used and where to find the picture? I would be most grateful.
I think that my chain drive conversion has just proved what everyone seems to think - that it was not the belt. The best outcomes are reduced noise and low cost future replacements without the need to take the swinging arm out.
Thanks for your comments, Phil.
2013 M3W 1960 Velocette Venom and the Landrovardo!
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As you say Dan, a skipping sensation is what it must be, not actual jumping of teeth or coupling rubbers. I suspect some sort of winding up and release suddenly when traction is lost momentarily. Can you tell me which type of coupling Centa used and where to find the picture? I would be most grateful.
Pictures in this thread http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/191653/3/New_Centra_Compensator
2021 M3W 2013 M3W - Sold 1971 4/4 2 Seater 1934 Sports
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Thanks Dan, interesting to see what is in there without stripping it all out,although I feel that coming on anyway! I suspect that the Centa unit winds up and the energy thus stored is released with a bang when traction is lost at the back wheel. Reading your comment about rear wheel cushioning I wonder if something might be gained from replacing the hardy spicer joints in the prop shaft ( there is not much misalignment to cope with ) with rubber doughnuts as are used on some cars with differentials fixed to the chassis? Why, I wonder are just a few people plagued with this and not everybody? It would be good to get some other drivers opinions of my vehicle and maybe get a drive of some other vehicles myself. Warbirds day of fun at Curborough may give me a chance - hope so.
2013 M3W 1960 Velocette Venom and the Landrovardo!
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Phil, Rog posted the link to JVS's Centa conversion thread.
I was on it, but he beat me to it.
I'm very familiar with the old Harley type compensator, but not with the Centa. I'm not sure, but the way the pockets are shaped in the Centa, it may allow more wind up from loaded to un-loaded torque. If the wind up is more that 10 to 15 degrees, it "may" cause that sensation of slipping.
I think that it's anyone's guess at this point. Not everyone is experiencing the "slipping" sensation either.
Dan
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Hi Dan, i read somewhere here that you have to grease it. Is there are grease point for this?
It seemed to make a lot of difference to the way it behaved.
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Hi Dan, i read somewhere here that you have to grease it. Is there are grease point for this?
It seemed to make a lot of difference to the way it behaved. I know some will not agree with my use of the coupling being called a compensator, but I think we all know the part we're talking about. The early M3W HD style compensator did not have a grease fitting. (To re-lube you had to take it apart, pulling the motor to do so) The late M3W HD style compensators did have a grease fitting and that's what the hole in the bell housing is for. The new Centa compensator does not require any maintenance lube. I see that upon installation of the new Centa compensator, JVS did use assembly lube. Probably more to keep the rubber rods in place while he assembled the inner and outer housing of the Centa assembly.
Last edited by Dan_Lockwood; 16/08/16 06:53 PM.
Dan
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Sorry Rog, thanks to you.
Grease? Maybe for the original metal on metal face cam type?
If the " wind up" is in the order of 12 degrees then, in 1st. gear, only one degree of lost traction at the back wheel would be enough to allow the compensator to whip back causing the shock when it comes to the end of it's travel. All difficult to prove for the amateur and expensive to prove for those who have the facilities. I think I will start a new post asking how many people experience what they believe to be the belt jumping over the sprocket teeth.
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Paul,
How about putting a dab of white Tippex (typewriter correction fluid) on the side of one of the sprocket teeth and another dab on the belt. Then run the car until you hear/feel the skipping. Then look to see whether the two white dabs of Tippex are still in line or have moved. That will prove whether the belt is skipping teeth or whether the issue has another cause. Thanks Tony - nice idea... but I'm not aware that the belt circumference is an exact multiple of the sprocket circumference. Is the no of belt teeth an exact multiple of the no of socket teeth? If so it will work, otherwise it will not align...
M3W5sp 2015, MSCC, MTWC, Oxon UK
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Hello Paul
Yes, of course you are quite right. My test is useless unless the maths work out that the number of teeth on the bevel box sprocket divide exactly into the number of teeth on the rear wheel sprocket, eg 18:36. Back to school for me!
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