Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Traditionals - Trolley jack go between.

To lift the rear across the rearmost crossmember I've used what is basically a length of strong floor boaring with a smaller piece of wood glued on top. This has worked well enough but I wanted to stiffen it up. So I had a look at Wickes aluminium channels and selected two lengths of L section. I've bolted these channels along each side to provide extra stiffness. On the top I've added a rubber anti-slip strip, and a small steady block to keep the wood level. To locate it I've screwed two hood male lift the dots into a couple of spare holes in the chassis, and added two extra blocks of wood which locate over these metal nipples so that accurate location is now very easy.
These pictures show the locating nipples, nearside & offside.




Underside showing L sections bolted on, and rubber pad for the jack.


Topside.




This has made a big improvement, and made me think about the front.............

You may remember my first version of this - for the front lift, knocked up from my offcuts box. Not pretty but it worked well enough. The two lower strips of wood stop the jack slipping, and the cross tube is held on the moulding by the block of wood behind it and sits on the neoprene cushion, so no damage.




When I fitted the undertray, access to the cross tube became very tight. I left just enough room for my second version, but it can be fiddly. This is a similar idea but has a metal channel with cushion, and a long throughbolt so that the jack can't slip.




I wanted something like my rear attachment, so that it would both spread the load, and be safe.

The starting point was two aluminium offcuts, which I shaped to fit around the cross tube at the outer ends near the wheels. The plan was then to mount these on blocks, and insert other blocks to spread the load where possible, but the location would be at each end in the U shaped aluminium.
This is how it started to take shape.




This shows the load bearing blocks, and the angled piece which supports the towing eye. The aluminium L sections are also in place.






One tiny detail remains. This old trolley jack needs 120mm clearance and the wooden frame does not provide that, it's about 100mm. So my next job is to source a nice shiny new trolley jack, and I know just where to look.............

Nice work Dave, I have had "trolley jack clearance " problems with my bits of wood as well. The Halfords off the shelf model clearly did not have Classic Morgan in mind.

Very highTec, Dave. On the back I jack up under the rear axle and on the front I use an U-iron channel - very lowTec.

Have you seen the aluminium trolley jack from Michelin? It is a beauty and should fit your demands.

Frank

Frank

Yes I quite fancy an aluminium trolley jack, so It's on my list. If I manage to get another Mog when I retire, access to number two garage door is tight, so I need a way of swinging the tail round. Initially I was contemplating some wheel jacks, but they are pricey, so current thinking is a lightweight trolley jack at the rear.

Dave

A very smooth floor would be a plus - and a trolley jack with as big wheels as possible. There are special trolley jacks for this purpose but I don't know their english name. If it is a struggle to manoeuvre the car one tends to use it sparingly (for a time I used the 4/4 only very seldom because the folding roof on the Triumph was much more practical).

Frank

I'll let you know how I get on, but it won't be yet.
The drive is quite smooth but not billiard table smooth, so some improvisation may be in order when and if the time comes.

I have made a similar front wooden jacking piece as you Dave. I also get some jack clearance issues but planed the wood to allow enough clearance.I used a double thickness of wood with 2 x 1 strips on the top for location. One layer of wood id ply - cut from some offcuts kept for just such a use - always handy to keep.
I put 4 small strips of wood under it to locate it on the jack's round swivel.
Your second version for the rear looks a good one too.....
I am also looking to make something to raise the jack so that the car can be raised higher. Use on floor and put stands in - slide a raised base under jack and raise further... or similar.
This is to get the car raised higher to give more room underneath. If the car gets to too steep an angle then intermediate raising of the rear should solve that.
But then.... would it be easier to buy a pro system that raises the car in one go.
Expensive but easier.

I must dig my woodworking tools out of the loft...

I have had a quick look under my '92 4/4 and tried rolling a trolleyjack underneath to get a feel for clearance etc.
Its a tight fit and unsuitable for full rear end use
I think if i use a single jack with a support as above then its got to be run from the side. I think this will mean the jack MUST move inwards on its wheels as the car raises otherwise the car could rotate and chocks on the front would have to prevent this. Also,as I would want axlestands at the point wgere the crossmember meets the chassis I would need a wooden cross support that allowed this. I am not too keen on just raising the car on the cross member so further investigation is needed.
Any opinions on p[ositioning axlestands a short distance away from the crossmember mating point?