Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Rear leaf spring lubrication

What does the panel think? I have recently lubricated the leaf spring and spring hanger bushes with AC50 followed up with few brush loads of EP90.i'm sure the ride is smoother, What experience do you have on frequency of lubrication of these bits of kit. My pals 20hp 1924 Rolls (ex Mr Bird of Birds Custard Powder) has leather fitted covers over its springs c/w grease nipples which might infer regular attention was needed.

I do mine annually with white aerosol grease and it quietens them down, some people have been known to lubricate them then wrap them in Denso tape.
Quite a few use motor bike chain grease as long as you use something it will be fine they are only cart springs after all .

I'm sure DaveW and others will be along to advise but I've had several cars with leaf springs and have always used motorcycle chain lube spray, it's not very sticky.

Oil and some spray lubes can cause road grit and muck to stick causing wear between the leaves. Wrapping is a good idea to prevent this and holds the grease in.

Not sure if AC50 is good for rubber bushes long term?

An annual spray of Motor Cycle chain oil works for me on my 2011 4/4

Ditto.

I’ve used Waxoyl for years. Cheap, works well and has good creeping properties..

Motorcycle chain oil for me.
Take the spare wheel off to get at the rear.

I work in a bikeshop (no motorbikes) and don't like the chainspray.

For both bicycles and motorbikes the spray is a little bit glueing that it doesn't "fly away". This means that it it also glues dirt.

I prefer for both bikes and the MOG a light oil as using in household or a cheap engine oil.

René

I used to use motorbike chain lube (as listed 'safe for o-ring chains') then you know its safe to blast all the rubber bushes too which tend to creak

I'm finding the new 5 Link squeaks and creaks just as bad as dry leaf springs anyway, I suspect its the numerous bushes in the various link arms

Duck Oil Service Spray.

I use it when it starts squeaking.

Just a thought

Lubricating between the leaves can effectively make the spring less stiffness by reducing the sliding friction. Whilst the softer springs may make for a nicer ride and possibly improve the car’s traction on a choppy surface there may be another consideration. If the car is one of those where the suspension has a tendency to bottom or make contact with the body then reducing the frictional damping action may exasperate the situation.

If you want a proper job, the spring needs to come apart and each leaf can then be filed/lapped smooth.

You can also buy modern stick on interleaving. In tbe good old days, interleaving was the norm and resembled a thin nylon strip. Now they don't bother.

On the car its a huge pain to get the lube where it matters anyway, and you stand a better chance using a screwdriver to spread the leaves slightly.

When I replaced the springs on Bumble, I slackened off the throughbolt and left them overnight twice (each side) with chain lube sprayed into the gaps. Then I wrapped them in Denso Tape.

Just for fun I lubricated the rear springs with something a little different this time.

This cheapo stuff from Scewfix is really thin.


I lifted the car on the frame to open the springs as best I could and shot it in between the leaves. The clear pressurized lube easily blasts straight through the spring and out the other side. For the first few seconds the excess ran out deep red, presumably flushing out iron oxide dust. These 2 year old springs have only done 3.5k and were kept lubricated so an eye opener to see what washed out.

Still weeping after the first run out and the black spring stained red.


I noticed something else too. For a while now I have not been able to slip my original 32mm setting block between the assists and top spring surfaces without forcing it, both gaps had closed by a few mm. However after the run the block slipped in again with ease so something had an effect on the static height. Was it just the benefit of the lubrication? Or could the accumulation of this red debris ‘clog up’ the spring, gradually zapping its strength over time if not removed?

Something I will be watching with interest but for now the old cart springs feel really tip-top and the car a delight to drive.

I've previously used Chain Grease, however on recommendation I've swapped to Wurth HSW100. Seems to be pretty similar.

That does surprise me Jon. Mine is so quiet I can hear all the other creaks and groans from the body/sidescreens/tools moving etc.

I think that post was a long time ago, all's settled down now with some o ring safe lube and alternative SSL coilovers to sort the overly stiff factory version

IIRC you have the more compliant full SSL conversion Andy