Agree with all the methods described. One thing I learned on TR engined +4s: the engine petcock drain does not necessarily mean ALL coolant is drained. I pulled the head on "lismore" last summer after draining on the level, and then jacking up the front so I could get "better" leverage lifting it off. Surprise! There was still coolant left in the block, enough to wet no. 4 cylinder. Fortunately, the piston was down so I quickly stuffed the bore with a clean rag, soaked it up, and dried it out with compressed air. No apparent harm done, installed the rebuilt head (no. 3 cylinder had a broken valve spring, sucked a valve). These engines have wet liners, of course, so at the ready one must have some hold downs set to fit the studs on adjoining cylinders to keep the liners in place and sealed. Once the hold downs are in place, then the crank can be turned, etc.
But after filling with fresh coolant, I find it takes a couple of ten mile or so runs to move the air trapped in block. I have a pressurized overflow system with a 8 lb double sealed cap going to a recovery bottle. It gets a workout during this period, but finally tops off. hth, cheers gordon "lismore"
