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As Max Boyce would say.....'I was there"

By far the best match I have been to.

Eddie said the Australian team had been in training and would win. The reality was they played like they had just met in the car park 5 mins before kick off and decided to play as individuals.

Can't imagine the Japanese showing much interest in Eddie after this shambles

Arwyn

Montegue what a great result for your first exercise drive.

I can't wait to read how things and times go on....

Just in case I was not clear by "Raad this story - Then buy it" I mean buy the Connaught Green Morgan +4, that MGB will not be for sale for a few decades.

I feel guilty because my son loved my Silvia Convertible and at the time the hail storm rote it off I didn't get a lot from the insurance company but I was not feeling like spending a lot of money to fix it and the only way to keep it was to not take any money from the Insurance company. With hindsight I should have just kept the wreck and fixed it for him, we have photos of him in the car at 4 years of age, not something he can ever repeat with another car.

Noted thanks.

I find taking the laptop to access my Excel spreadsheets for filling up a touch inconvenient as with the slide rule, the finger in the air and I've driven for a while so better fill up resistance method has worked well for the last 10 years.

We bought a second hand Renault 5 in the late 70s. I had to flush the heater box with a garden hose. It was full of muck. Just thought.

In the end it is sin tax and the grin is worth it.

The widow makers or "Death Flight" as they are referred too. I was recently part of a guard of honour at the funeral for a local US Marine Major who was killed in an Osprey crash in Australia a month ago, he was the Squadron Commander. Many years ago when 45 Commando RM were on exercise with the US Marines they were scheduled to be deployed from ship in Osprey's, the CO refused to have his men go near the things and famously declared "they will go by landing craft and foot as they have always done".

The lights are from a "New" Beetle of the 2002 origin (without electric levelling i.e. basic ones), no modifications needed although you may need to file down a few plastic edges to make them fit flush to the wings, this varies car to car.

The problem is sourcing them, VW have discontinued them - and its incredibly hard to find OE quality lamps from suppliers in the UK (Morgan had nothing when I rang and when they had previously the price was 5/6 times higher than elsewhere).

The originals on the car can vary in labelling, mine were from Bosch but the Magnetti Marelli/VW branded variants are identical with some of the numbers printed on them overlapping or corresponding to each other. I suspect they all originate from the same factory/moulds.
They all seem to look the same and be are good quality, the alternative aftermarket ones I tried were not very well built and I wasn't happy with them so spent months searching for the OE parts.

Part numbers below:
VW Code
NS 1c2941029d
OS 1c2941030d

BOSCH
NS 0 301 163 603
OS 0 301 163 604

Marelli
NS 710301163603 MHL2155 - this is OS Aero
OS 471441480 - this is NS Aero
Product Code: 471441470 LH Lamp assy
Product Code: 471441480 RH Lamp Assy"

The lamps are mounted on opposite sides, so NS is OS and vice-versa. I think my notes above are the Beetle sides, so the opposite applies to the Aero. Doesn't matter if you need a pair though.

Try searching on eBay for VW specialists, or try big multi-national car motor parts factors - some used to stock Magnetti Marelli ones for very good prices, but when I was searching no one had anything.

Hope that helps.

A great day out, some more pics from Diss.

I know ... I'm imagining a chav in corduroy and leather elbow patches 🙂


Gordon .... not been to the museum in ages, so probably worth a return visit as exhibits do change .... would have popped in but had another committment at lunchtime ... good collection last time I was there .... also liked the Moray Museum in Nairn some unusual and interesting cars.

Your run over the lecht looked good!

K

I enjoyed reading Gonze's list of improvements, and the idea of having a car that you can potter with in this way is quite attractive. Some of the improvements were ingenious. But as a non Morgan owner I have to question having to do some of the "improvem,ents" at all on a car that costs as much as a Plus Four. For that matter, arent alarms standard even on the meanest Renault?

Where is the dividing line between character and fault?

As was mentioned earlier, the first one Richard posted was a Dutton Surf, based on a Suzuki Jimny.

JB62's photo is of the later incarnation, the Dutton Reef, based on the Ford Fiesta - so lacking the 4WD of the Surf.

Tim Dutton is no longer making them but the company is up for sale if anyone fancies their on amphicar business.

A Reef was recently auctioned, unsuccessfully on Car & Classic:

https://www.carandclassic.com/make-an-offer/2021-dutton-reef-2wd-nYw9V8

Or Dutton have a nearly new Surf for sale if you need the four wheel drive option

Sometimes I am overcome with something like courage Richard 😇

Had two pals with E Types, that's just what they used to say

Reply on “ Ign Coil Testing “

Hi all
I am not sure if I have a coil problem, the information here and on the internet is a little confusing.
In Ian’s alternative part-list he writes about the type ‘31655-99’

There are several Harley You-tubes about coil testing and most of them state that the primary should be around 3 Ohm.
And the secondary around 12k Ohm.
All single fire HD coils do have a three wire input for the coil.
From the three pins the middle one is the main Voltage and the two side pins are for triggering the front or the aft cylinder.
So measurements are taken from one of the side pins and the middle pin.

VA multi-meters are not correct when they have to measure 3 or less Ohm.
Because of the expected low Ohm on these pins, you can use two VA multi-meters. One as current meter and one parallel to the 12V source.
And calculate the Ohm – R = V/I -- out of the measured current and the measured Voltage.
I used a battery and a short push switch so I cannot damage/heat the coil.

I tested mine and the primary is around 0,75 Ohm and the secondary is 12kOhm.
So I thought mine is wrong and ordered a new one.
I tested the new one too and the primaries are again 0,75 Ohm and the secondary 12 kOhm.

I found a website with some HD coil info
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1780092
There is stated
>> Single fire coil testing for carbed (ICM) rubsters, 2004-2006
Coil 31655-99 has three connectorized primary terminals (- + -), referenced 1 (rear) 2 (12 VDC) 3 (front) and twin coil towers.
Primary resistance is from + to -, both 2 to 1 and 2 to 3 at 0.5 to 0.7 ohms.
Secondary (high voltage) winding resistance is tested from coil tower to coil tower at 5,500 ohms to 7,500 ohms. <<

And
>> Single fire coil testing for Sportster Sport (1998-2003)
Coil 31646-99 has three connectorized primary terminals (- + -), referenced A (front) B (12 VDC) C (rear) and twin coil towers.
Primary resistance is from + to -, both B to A and B to C at 0.4 to 0.6 ohms. For the 1200S (dual plug heads), measure secondary resistance between both front coil towers and then between both rear coil towers at 11,700 to 12,700 ohms. <<

So this creates even more questions.
Q1 : Is this website correct?
Q2 : Do we really have a 31655-99 - it is printed on the new one, but not on the old one - because why then a secondary output of 12k instead of 7k Ohm?
Q3 : In this TM #578649 AncientMariner - I am an ancient Mariner too 😉 - speaks about 3Ohm but both the 31655-99 and the 31646-99 single coils do have 0,75 Ohm or even less.
What is the Ohm-reading we need on the Primary?
Q4 : What in case of a lower Ohm-reading
Q4 : Where to find the correct specs?

Thanks

PS TM Posting editor seems to be really slow at the moment.

Also welcome to TM from northern Germany!

On the way home from Friday’s noggin the speedo, rev counter, fuel, temp gauges all cut out. No power so dark and needles all at the zero point.The LED screen was still working. Engine working fine and no warning lights came on. After a couple of miles the gauges came back ok but soon failed again. No other symptoms from the engine/ no warning lights/ engine running smoothly.
Fuses checked ok. Disconnected the battery to try a reboot. Still no gauges. Car starts as normal and sounds ok running.
Looks like a lost connection, module failure, behind the dash somewhere.
Car has done 4k+ miles since new a few weeks ago. The only glitch was the hood tenax stud fastener just behind the door snapped inside on the screw thread part.( mrs sospan replaced it unknown to me when I was raising the hood rear to put stuff onto the shelf) so replaced with a different one with two screw fixing holes. The originals are plated brass and seem to have a weakness for snapping and need drilling out. I think the newer version with stainless screws might be better, albeit two holes drilled to fit. I have done the broken side only so far to see how it goes before doing the other one.The procedure for the hood raising/ lowering now includes a verbal check on tenax release!
It’s going in to Williams for a handbrake check in just over a week so the gauges is another job for them!

Some more pictures from the trip.





















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I nearly do!

I have just been looking at the JLM cleaner and was wondering about using it.

You think that's bad ? Have a look at this "fully restored" car currently for sale near here by a reputable classic dealer. Bonnet fit ? It's so bad I had to photograph it.

^ blimey the queue for the toilets will be huge

What the DB5 should of always been.