Taròz

Even today every area of Italy has its own distinct dialect and foods. In the cities this is perhaps only partially true but as many no longer speak the local dialect but in the country dialect can change from one valley to the next. Bergamasco, which is spoken only 30 kilometers from Mandello, is really a different language. In that sense most Italians from country regions have grown up speaking a dialect at home and Italian at school. Most cities retain the principal food traditions of the region but many are slowly being lost. Taròz is one such recipe that is perhaps in danger of being lost but is still used in many different variations by people in the Valtellina, a valley that runs parallel to the Swiss border north of Lake Como. It is important to this dish to have the correct type of cheese. Latteria is literally “dairy” cheese and as such it also varies enormously from region to region. I would recommend two variations of the same type of cheese but one is ok. The first is a mature cheese a little like a Parmesan cheese but not so hard or sharp tasting. The second is a younger softer cheese that has a milder taste. The equivalents in cheddar would be tasty and mild but somehow cheddar does not have the right flavour and you need to seek something a little more Italian in style and not too fatty. One important item is that whatever cheese you choose needs to melt well to a creamy consistency and not turn into a chewy lump. A word of warning however: this is not a low cholesterol dish. Taròz can be a vegetarian main course in itself or can be served as an accompaniment to a main course.

Taròz (the basic version)
Serves 4
500 gm potatoes
500 gm green beans
200 gm slightly mature cheese or 150 gm each of a mild and a mature cheese
1 onion
150 gm butter
salt and pepper to taste

Boil the peeled potatoes and the green beans together in a pot. When cooked drain most the water and roughly mash the beans and potatoes together to form a coarse puree. This should be somewhat coarser than the normal mashed potatoes. In the mean time chop the cheese into 1 cm cubes (or fine slices) and slice the onion and slowly soften it in the butter over a low heat until golden.

Add a layer of the hot mash to the bottom of a deep buttered dish and place some of the cheese on top. Continue to add layers of potato and cheese until the last layer which should be potato only. Pour the butter and onions over the dish. If necessary reheat and bring to the table.

Variations include; substituting some of the cheese with the stronger tasting Parmesan cheese, substituting some of the potato with, or adding, a can of Borlotti beans (large white Italian beans), substituting the onion with, or adding, some cloves of garlic to the butter whilst it is melting (garlic is removed before the butter is added to the dish), adding chopped bacon to the mash or cooking chopped bacon together with the onions, substituting some or all of the butter with olive oil.

Our favourite variation is to make the basic recipe of potato beans and two types of local cheese. We then add the potato and cheese layers to an oven dish. We pour some butter in which has been gently fried some garlic (so that the flavour has been taken up by the butter). Over the top is sprinkled a generous amount grated Parmesan. The dish is then placed under in the oven to re-heat and gently brown the top.

Taròz is served hot.

Peter

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