Yep I'm with you there Pauly,
I'm pretty good on the tools and don't mind LR suspension bushes etc but these hubs cost a packet and they look shed made too! But the tube size is small gauge in construction and one nick might cause a fracture when in use so the bushes have to be wound out as you say using the socket clearance method. Of course top and bottom bush mounts will not be in line and that is why a line reamer has to be used when reaming to fit the pins so that both are being reamed on the same axis, Ie. you can't ream one side then turn it around and ream the other as that will follow the tube orientation and they will definitely not be in line! I have seen a couple of hubs that were very out of alignment and one of the bushes when reamed was only just within the body of the bush. At first I thought it had a wear pattern but no, it was a reamer alignment correction! However I'm sure that chap will suffer a lot of lower bushes wearing out!
One tip here If you need to saw the bush for a relief cut. Mount the bush socket in the vice and make sure the hub body is below the jaws both sides then you can saw down through the bush and you won't contact the bush socket of the hub, might mark the vice jaws though! Often if you have a bush that is stubborn to shift this relief cut usually lets things move! Oh, and you don't need a lubricant when machining brass or bronze but for a smooth finish its best if the reamer has 10 cutting splines.
