There is only one slightly dodgy area on my Roadster and that's on the offside front wing but almost under the bonnet edge, so it doesn't really show. It's a patch which shows sub surface scratching, so cutting back won't reduce it without risking taking the paint off. The rest of the paint is very good, but with a few polish induced scratches (not by me I hasten to add). Every time the paint is detailed by a pro, a layer comes off, so eventually the paint will thin, until it goes through. I remember a concours event at Brands Hatch many years ago. I was next to an immaculate black MGBGT. The paint was cut and polished to perfection. The owner was polishing hard on the rear wing, when he saw a small grey speck which wouldn't come off....... Out came the abrasive polish, and before you knew it, he had cut a long strip of paint back to the primer.
Polishing is an art, and the pro's do it every day. We amateurs need to find a style which suits us, but if you have swirls, your technique isn't right. It's all about the colour, the brand of polish, and especially the applicator and the polishing cloth. Then it's about the level of pressure applied, and the direction of effort.
In respect of paint rubbing off - yes it does. The chassis flexes, so where paint is in contact with something it will rub away over time. On a trad, the sidescreens will rub the B posts, and the bonnet will rub the bulkhead and the cowl. There are steps that you can take. The B post can be protected with clear plastic, and the corners of the bonnet can be protected with neoprene pads (what else!).
I've seen the paint shop at the factory and as far as I have seen, the results are excellent.
I don't know whether MMC use lacquer or not, but I imagine they do on metallics. Normal non metallic paint doesn't really need it. I may be cynical, but I think big players use it so that poor polishing doesn't show swirling. On black for example, swirls show very quickly, whereas with a lacquer over the top, there's an element of protection.
