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Rog G #142765 02/07/13 01:02 PM
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So 1000 miles on and the drivetrain clatter first heard at 100 miles is more pronounced. It could even be heard with the car stationary by depressing and releasing the clutch, the drivetrain drag being sufficient to create the noise.

The car is back at the factory having a new compensator fited.


2021 M3W
2013 M3W - Sold
1971 4/4 2 Seater
1934 Sports
Rog G #142780 02/07/13 01:58 PM
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mmmm try lubricating the drive belt with Silicone lube - it might work - and if not no harm done!

Failing that it could be the dreaded bevel drive - which version have u got ? The factory would be able to tell u. coffee


Neil

Rog G #142819 02/07/13 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted By Rog G
I collected my new toy on Saturday, pictures to follow. I have done 100 miles today and there is a worrying rattle developing from somewhere in the drivetrain. The bevel box is quite quiet the noise is further forward than that, it manifests itself when revs drop below 2000 most noticeably in 4th and 5th.


I assume I should be able to drive around at 30 mph in 4th gear which equates to about 1800 rpm. I have driven a couple of demonstrators but do not remember what the typical speeds in gears were. Could some one tell me what gear you normally use around town at 30 mph. I will call the dealer tomorrow in any case.

Apart from that the car is great, been assaulting the senses all day.


Mine is just shy of 4,000 miles in after only a few months. I have learned to treat the entire drive train like it is diesel powered. The tachometer is your friend. What the mph is becomes irrelevant. I might let the engine go as low as 2500rpm but the real sweet spot is between 3000rpm to 4500rpm. Everything smoothes out. I've hit 5k rpm a number of times but it is stressful to the engine and unnecessary as well. If this thing had wings it would be a different story...

30mph is second gear. Period.
35 to 55mph is third.
50 to 65mph is fourth.
60 to whatever is fifth.

These ranges are flexible due to terrain and all but the biggest thing is keeping the engine from lugging and causing the entire drivetrain to not make nice. Yes, one can drive it at a far lower rpm but then the vibration will not be readily absorbed by the cush block and then the tranny will be under stress.


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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You've explained it perfectly Michael ,I've adopted exactly the same technique :-)


Hugh
HJP #142823 02/07/13 06:02 PM
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If you read the S&S break in procedure, they recommend that you keep it above 2700 rpm.

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/97876/S_S_Motor_Break_In_Recommendat#Post97876


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NeilL #142885 03/07/13 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted By m3boy
mmmm try lubricating the drive belt with Silicone lube - it might work - and if not no harm done!

Failing that it could be the dreaded bevel drive - which version have u got ? The factory would be able to tell u. coffee

The car is only 8 weeks old so has the latest bevel box. The bevel box is actually very quiet,the problem lies within the compensator assembly (cush drive) this is what is being replaced.


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2013 M3W - Sold
1971 4/4 2 Seater
1934 Sports
Rog G #142923 03/07/13 10:40 AM
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I think my cush drive is rather rattly now, but it hasn't got to the point (2000 miles) that it sounds terminal. I could be completely wrong as I found the number plate was loose last night and that could be rattling... Off for a drive to find out!

Can't resist the little thing, noises and all.

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Originally Posted By wiscos
Can't resist the little thing, noises and all.


yup


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Had a great drive, and think the little wonder-trike was on best behaviour. Makes middle age bearable.

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Exactly! Everyone needs one :-)


Hugh
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