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#155187 14/09/13 06:04 AM
Joined: Feb 2013
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This may sound a bit daft but I am having a lot of trouble removing the wheels from my +4. I have the octagonal wheel nuts and have tried using the spanner and hammer supplied with the car but to no avail.
I presume that the nuts are loosened before jacking the car, although the handbook says to jack the car before attempting to undo the nuts.
Currently I have soaked the threads in WD40 and have ordered a very big spanner from Peter Mulberry in the hope that this may help.
Any suggestions would be very gratefully received.


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John. it's just technique. I find the anti clockwise undo harder because I'm right handed. With the clockwise undo, set the toolhandle just above 3 o clock, use your left hand to hold the tool firmly on the nut. If it's a loose fit. a bit of masking tape will tighten it up. Put an old blanket on the wheel rim if you want to be safe then hit it hard, and you should see it go slightly, then keep going. You will need the weight of the car on the ground to get it started.


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You're correct in loosening before jacking the car John and you do need to give the wheel spanner a hefty clout. Are you able to remove any of them and have you taken them off before?

Last edited by paulmog; 14/09/13 09:06 AM.

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I have that piece of kit from Phil Ledgerwood ( I think Dave has too) which works very well but sometimes needs a couple of sharp knocks with a hammer on the nut to get started. Don't forget to grease the splines when refitting. Good luck.

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Just a thought and no apology if I am stating the obvious; it is obvious if you have been around wirewheels before.
Look at the arrow on the face of the octagonal nut on each side of the motor, note that they undo in the direction as the wheel travels forward.
The right side is different to the left side.
For RHD motor:-
Nearside undo - ANTI clockwise
Off side undo - Clockwise



Ian
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I have a tool from Miller Commercial motors but still need the hammer to get them moving.

The splines are razor sharp so please don't touch them or you will cut yourself.


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Originally Posted By meabh
I have that piece of kit from Phil Ledgerwood ( I think Dave has too) which works very well but sometimes needs a couple of sharp knocks with a hammer on the nut to get started. Don't forget to grease the splines when refitting. Good luck.


I have this piece of kit too, although pricey is well made and with care means no wheel or bodywork damage. I use a 900mm breaker bar to remove the nuts and I use a 600mm breaker bar to tighten the nuts.


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As a wire wheel virgin that is all great advice for which I thank you all. This is the first time I have tried to remove the wheels myself and I'm beginning to suspect that Jeff Capes is employed part time in the wheel tightening department of my local dealer.
When my big spanner comes I'll keep you advised of progress, meanwhile I'll have another bash with my trusty club hammer.




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Originally Posted By Wirewheel
Just a thought and no apology if I am stating the obvious; it is obvious if you have been around wirewheels before.
Look at the arrow on the face of the octagonal nut on each side of the motor, note that they undo in the direction as the wheel travels forward.
The right side is different to the left side.
For RHD motor:-
Nearside undo - ANTI clockwise
Off side undo - Clockwise

I had to point this out to a local tyre dealer who was trying to get the wheels of a Jag. He didn't see or understand the English on the nuts and was going the wrong way.


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Originally Posted By Wirewheel
Just a thought and no apology if I am stating the obvious; it is obvious if you have been around wirewheels before.
Look at the arrow on the face of the octagonal nut on each side of the motor, note that they undo in the direction as the wheel travels forward.
The right side is different to the left side.
For RHD motor:-
Nearside undo - ANTI clockwise
Off side undo - Clockwise



+1 - MOCA have a great tool too - basically has a longer handle (that is kinked) than the normally spanner...


Richard
1976 4/4 4 Seater
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