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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,363 Likes: 11
Has a lot to Say!
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OP
Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,363 Likes: 11 |
H-D Poly Oil$3.95 US for 2oz. at a dealer. This is the number one hit. Bikes have the same problem, too. Their rear sprockets are chromed steel as well. Tried the W-D 40 and it did work. I do remember about the water displacement aspect. I'm good with that as my first 100 yards are on a dirt road with water filled holes I have to drive through to get to asphalt. The poly oil is a dealer only product so online shopping is a bit of a pain. At least I think this is going in the right direction! A further note from the bike forums: The belts will last 100,000 miles with minimal grief. The people who are breaking them are racing with high hp motors pushing 200hp at the rear. Ours are seeing 85-100 depending on the literature, just like most big bikes. The belt is far tougher than the rear sprocket.
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,075
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,075 |
A good quality 530 O-ring chain will handle upwards of 200hp to the rear wheel.
My old '76 FHL is chain and when I restored it I went with a good quality O-ring chain.
The O-ring chain has rubber o-rings on each pin and each side. They are greased when made and have a long wear life. You only wipe them down occasionally with light oil and that's it.
I've got about 10k miles on my rebuild and I only adjusted the chain after about a 1k miles and no future adjustments have been needed.
I wouldn't swap to a chain on the M3W unless there were multiple belt failures and this were the only option. Regardless of the type of chain, they're noisy.
I still feel that getting the belt centered would be the first thing to do and forgo any sprays just to keep the belt dry and free of clingy debris.
Dan
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 190
L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 190 |
I wouldn't swap to a chain on the M3W unless there were multiple belt failures and this were the only option. Regardless of the type of chain, they're noisy.
I still feel that getting the belt centered would be the first thing to do and forgo any sprays just to keep the belt dry and free of clingy debris. Dan, I agree with your thoughts and comments on this topic. Sprays, greases, oils, etc. are not necessary for this belt drive system. If the belt is centered on the sprockets there should be no need for any lubrication; these belts are very tough and are designed to run dry. One of my cars, which is of a rear engine design, runs a supercharger belt that sits less than a foot behind my right ear [although there is a glass window between the belt and my ear] without any lube and without a sound much more than a whisper. Keep the belt clean, tensioned correctly, and centered on sprockets; one should have no noise that is heard above the Bevel Box whine.
Past The City Limits
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,363 Likes: 11
Has a lot to Say!
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OP
Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,363 Likes: 11 |
A good quality 530 O-ring chain will handle upwards of 200hp to the rear wheel.
My old '76 FHL is chain and when I restored it I went with a good quality O-ring chain.
The O-ring chain has rubber o-rings on each pin and each side. They are greased when made and have a long wear life. You only wipe them down occasionally with light oil and that's it.
I've got about 10k miles on my rebuild and I only adjusted the chain after about a 1k miles and no future adjustments have been needed.
I wouldn't swap to a chain on the M3W unless there were multiple belt failures and this were the only option. Regardless of the type of chain, they're noisy.
I still feel that getting the belt centered would be the first thing to do and forgo any sprays just to keep the belt dry and free of clingy debris. I'd go with all of what you said. but. There is less than an 1/8" of play available for the belt to just ride on the recesses and avoid the flange. It's going to move more than that just accelerating and decelerating. I think that the materials used in the construction of the rear sprocket is the main culprit. I was nosing around after a 40 mile test drive to see how well the WD-40 did. It held up well but I could see that it could be better. More importantly I noticed the beginnings of the sprocket slowly being eaten by the belt. It has definitely started and what that tells me is that, like the last sprocket, it is chewing at it and the debris created hastens the process. That is for the rear. The front is a different material and shows zero wear and no displays of noise when I'm under the car and spinning things around to just see what the hell is going on. It looks beautiful and is well behaved. Aluminum was a bad choice. H-D's use chrome plated steel. Bearings may go but I've not heard of anyone losing a sprocket!
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 655 Likes: 1
WW11 MOG Talk Morgan Regular
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WW11 MOG Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 655 Likes: 1 |
Mr Sheen along the edge of the belt has been great for me...well over 1000 miles and still quiet
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,514 Likes: 8
Talk Morgan Addict
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Talk Morgan Addict
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,514 Likes: 8 |
Funny you say that WB, I was thinking only today that a silicone furniture polish might do the trick.
Paul [At last, I have a car I can polish]
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 582
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 582 |
Well I too have been having belt problems. It's frustrating because when I got the car the belt ran about 1/8 inch off the nearside of the sprocket. I've been trying to adjust the belt to the middle of the sprocket but then it seems to rub on the tire. I'm wondering if any of you have the same problem, (have I missed a share?). Could it be that I have some other problem such as alignment somewhere? The tension is factory spec and I see no loose parts. Any ideas? I'm thinking that at some point I will shim the sprocket slightly to the nearside, maybe when I have to change the rear tire.
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,959 Likes: 15
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,959 Likes: 15 |
Mr Sheen along the edge of the belt has been great for me...well over 1000 miles and still quiet I tried this and it did work in eliminating the squeak however I now have a jet engine noise. Which is fine by me.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,514 Likes: 8
Talk Morgan Addict
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Talk Morgan Addict
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,514 Likes: 8 |
"I now have a jet engine noise."
It must be a huge jet, to drown out your lack of silencers Peter?
Paul [At last, I have a car I can polish]
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 756 Likes: 9
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 756 Likes: 9 |
I sui informed me with my vendor hd parts and S & S if he could find me a rear pulley pressed steel 66 teeth meme kind buel some bikes had, he answered me that it does not exist, it would morgan do that made ​​for its longer than the aluminum pan, I'm looking to possibly replace the rear transmission 32 with 66 tooth sprocket chain 23/48.   to do well should produce a protective waterproof housing chain.
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