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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 552
sawman Offline OP
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 552
These are kinds of fix I can live with, just about within my engineering limitations!

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 47
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 47
I just whipped the old one out of my brake line and replaced with a shiny new Intermotor 51610 in less than half an hour. Job done, big smiley face grin2

It's a 2004 4/4 btw


Julia
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Originally Posted By JuliaM
I just whipped the old one out of my brake line and replaced with a shiny new Intermotor 51610 in less than half an hour. Job done, big smiley face grin2

It's a 2004 4/4 btw


Have you bled the brakes?


Richard
1976 4/4 4 Seater
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 47
Just Getting Started
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Just Getting Started
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 47
Um, no. innocent

Yes, I know I perhaps should but in my defence I had read up on the change and once the old one was out I lay there with my finger over the hole until my BF had removed the washer from old and put it to the new, then I popped it back in.

I guess less than 2cc of fluid lost, possibly only one, and no sponginess in the system after 200 miles or so. thumbs


Julia
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Joined: Dec 2013
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Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Dec 2013
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The problem lies with the hydraulic switch in the brake pipe. They often burn out as they carry too much current. I confirmed this by sawing one in half and the contacts were knackered.

I fixed it by putting a relay in the electrical circuit. Ideally the relay should have a diode in it and a small capacitor fitted across the hydraulic switch to eliminate internal sparking.

These are the details:

http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Electrical/General/Brake_Light_Relay.pdf

More recently it has occurred to me that a more elegant way of dealing with the problem would be to fit LED brake light bulbs as these take much less current.

John


John

Silver 2005 S1 Roadster V6 - Henrietta
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