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Peter J #216926 17/08/14 06:50 PM
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For rear lighting issues and fuel pump they are all off rear harness drwg 3100114 this connects to main harness.
Via 13 pin connector dash board is connected via another subpar Ness so I'd still suspect a common return line

Last edited by milligoon; 17/08/14 06:57 PM.

Mark - No Longer driving
Archie the Old English Sheep Mog...........
2010 Roadster 3.0 V6 (S3) wink
Peter J #216928 17/08/14 07:07 PM
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Peter J Offline OP
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I've just removed the dash and checked that all the connectrs are good and nothing I've been fiddling about near has come undone.

Main fuse is good, according to the multimeter.

I'll check the inertia switch. I had the car jacked up yesterday to replace the now repaired wheel/ture. I can't believe that jacking the car might do that, but you never know.

Everything works other than the instruments. And the car.

And before anyone asks I've tried both keys.....


Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

Peter J #216929 17/08/14 07:17 PM
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Peter J Offline OP
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Colin,

there is no power to the inertia switch....very odd.

Peter



Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

Peter J #216931 17/08/14 07:21 PM
Joined: Jul 2011
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I am with jbk check the crash button. On the plus 4 it is on the Uk near side near the bulk head.


Ian
2011 Plus 4
Wild Mogs Reims 2019, Goodwood 2018, Isle of Man 2017, Carried on to Caramulo" 2016
Peter J #216932 17/08/14 07:22 PM
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Cannot help you Peter but wish you luck!


Ruut Bianchi
Morgan PlusFour 2023 Bentley Midnight Emerald
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Peter J #216934 17/08/14 07:38 PM
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Just been out and checked my car, on my own so no one to flick keys etc. Also it's a +4 but even so this circuit should be the same. OK there is no feed to the inertia switch with the ignition turned on either in mine, it is live on the purple wire when the engine is running but what I can't do is see if it's live during cranking (arms not that long). That suggests it's ECU controlled as a switched ECU output so yours may be perfectly OK. Please check if you have feed to the fuel pump direct at the pump block connector behind the spar wheel, I would suspect the answer is no. Step by step buddy, we will find it ;-)

Last edited by Spanner Juggler; 17/08/14 07:40 PM.

BR Colin
Who used to be a Spanner Juggler
Peter J #216935 17/08/14 07:39 PM
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My Roadster failed to start shortly after getting it. Turned out to be the clutch pressure switch not working ( on the 3.7 Roadster, you have to depress the clutch before you can start ), but if I remember rightly, the instruments still worked, although being a Morgan, things may have changed...
Bypassing the clutch switch got me going again, although checking with a meter indicated that the switch was working. Strange..
Ian


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Peter J Offline OP
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Originally Posted By Spanner Juggler
Just been out and checked my car, on my own so no one to flick keys etc. Also it's a +4 but even so this circuit should be the same. OK there is no feed to the inertia switch with the ignition turned on either in mine, it is live on the purple wire when the engine is running but what I can't do is see if it's live during cranking (arms not that long). That suggests it's ECU controlled as a switched ECU output so yours may be perfectly OK. Please check if you have feed to the fuel pump direct at the pump block connector behind the spar wheel, I would suspect the answer is no. Step by step buddy, we will find it ;-)


The fuel pump doesn't run.
One of the solenoid valves opens, but the pump doesn't run.
If the instruments worked as normal I'd suspect the pump or relay. It is the lack of activity on any of the gauges or warning lights that is very odd.

Just realised none of the warning lights come on with the ignition.

Hmm.


Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

Peter J #216938 17/08/14 08:01 PM
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Sorry Peter, I suspect it's a back to Williams job for their auto electrician to set to with his test kit, the advantage with a dealer is they can swap parts with a runner to try and move the fault (really good practice to move the fault rather than just get a car going then your 100% certain you have nailed the problem).

This is one of those that will be very simple open circuit, failed common earth point or something more serious like an ECU I am fearing, hope it's the former.

Please keep us in the loop if it's not too painful, all learning is good.


BR Colin
Who used to be a Spanner Juggler
Peter J #216965 17/08/14 10:54 PM
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Peter, I had a similar issue when an indicator bulb fitting on Rosie came loose and blew a fuse, this screwed the charging circuit and the fuel gauge and voltmeter did not work, if ignition light is dim then it's related to this I suspect. You may have a bad connection on the low tension side of the ignition circuit or failed circuitry in the alternator. Suggest you take the connecting block off the alternator and ensure all are clean and good connections, and try again. Then check other connections on this circuit. It's worth a try.


Adrian

Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
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