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Joined: Jun 2014
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Wave & smile... It's a Morgan
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Great post as ever DaveW

You've just highlighted my next job


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I like my tread rubbers - one per side - I find generally it reminds people to lift feet a bit higher when getting in or out of the car - also takes the first knock of those who forget!.


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Originally Posted By PhilRoyle
I like my tread rubbers - one per side - I find generally it reminds people to lift feet a bit higher when getting in or out of the car - also takes the first knock of those who forget!.


Same as mine.
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Colin - absolutely right about the screwdriver approach, but at least it was an old one with rounded off corners! I've done a few MGBGT screens in my time and my weapon of choice for that job was a stainless steel dental tooth lifter!

Jon has now finished the job, so here are the follow up photos:

The strips have been gently countersunk to take the stainless cross-head setscrews.



This shows the original screw, the stainless replacement, and
a domestic socket screw - nickel plated brass which could be used if shortened.



Finally, Jon used a credit card to refit the rubber strip, a much better idea than a screwdriver. I'm really annoyed that I didn't think of this because I keep a couple of old RAC cards in the garage for just such a job! Grrrr.



Finally in Jon's words:
When re-fitting I coated the back of the channel with Waxoil & bolted it all in place then ran some more Waxoil into the channel & used this as corrosion protection & a lube to help refit the rubber insert – the tip with this is to tuck the shaped end in, hold the back edge of the rubber strip tightly down, then just run the edge if an old credit card along to ease the lip into place – looks messy but it all cleans up very easily afterwards. Another tip is to coat one face of the ‘penny washers’ with Waxoil a day or two before re-assembly – this helps them stick to the underside of the running boards whilst you fiddle to get the nut threaded, works a treat J


DaveW
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Has anyone tried countersunk Nylon screws, washers and nuts?

Certainly no corrosion issue but are they strong enough?

When that job gets to the top of the list I might give them a try, unless someone has tried them before and knows they are not suitable and why.

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Originally Posted By terryg
Has anyone tried countersunk Nylon screws, washers and nuts?

Certainly no corrosion issue but are they strong enough?

When that job gets to the top of the list I might give them a try, unless someone has tried them before and knows they are not suitable and why.


I was thinking along the same lines..

these people are possibly the best source of such fasteners:

Skiffy

The fibre reinforced nylon screws and nuts are remarkably tough and will never corrode! joy

For the intended application, with multiple screws, they will be more than strong enough. Another plus is that once fitted the surplus bolt length can be clipped off using garden pruning cutters....

Actually there are many applications on the Mog where replacing steel nuts and bolts with plastic would help, the indicator and tail light fixings come to mind. I feel a project comming on.... winky

Last edited by Peter J; 19/02/15 09:41 AM. Reason: Addition.

Peter,
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This is a good thread. Do you think exhaust proximity and heat could be a problem for Nylon fixtures?

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The Skiffy website lists the rated working temperature for all the parts, the more expensive polymers, like PEEK and fibre reinforced nylon are good up to close to 200C. That temperature would damage paint.

A round about way of saying "I very much doubt it"!


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"Reflect-a-cool" from Agriemach can be fitted under the boards if necessary. I have that above the cats on the Roadster, The only problem is that the underwing area has to be cleaned off fastidiously with white spirit so it will stick. Mine has not shifted in several years.
It's a horribly messy job if you tackle it.


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Aaargh, going to have to go look at mine now...luckily I've only got one rubbing strip per side (poverty model)! I like the look of those composite bolts from Skiffy.

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