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#258705 10/03/15 07:48 PM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 184
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L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Apr 2012
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Purchased a brand new +4 in January this year with what must be one of the last Duratec engines before they introduced the GDI (did not like the dashboard on the new one). One thing I keep noticing is that the electric cooling fan seems to be working overtime compared to the 4/4 1600 Sigma I had previously The +4 reaches operating temperature of 98 and is OK while moving on flat roads. Show it a half decent incline and the temperature goes up to 100 and the fan cuts in. Likewise, sitting in traffic for a short period produces the same effect. The fan does its job, reduces temperature back to 98, fan goes off - just as you would expect really. Is this normal? Bear in mind we are in March with temperatures of +5 to +8 Celsius at the moment in our region, hardly heatwave stuff! The only reason I ask is that I honestly don’t think I recall ever hearing the fan on the 4/4, the temperature gauge never moving once it had reached operating temperature of 95.

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Black Rat
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Black Rat
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I trust you have checked the coolant level. Perhaps the engine is still tight. I have a 2013 and I can't say the fan comes on that often but I do have nearly 14 k on the clock now. It does come on if I reverse up the drive and wait for he garage door to open.


Keith
2013 narrow bodied + 4 Ruby.
Joined: Aug 2013
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I have an 08 +4 Duratec, I had a 4 seat version of the same car before that and both run around an indicated 80 degrees (I say that as I don't trust the gauges but the engine feels normal to the touch, and yes I have touched a few ;-)). Last week I had a lift in another TM members 07 +4 and noted his temperature was exactly the same as mine, different gauges but the same indicated temperature so I think the Duratec runs a tad cooler that in its OE Ford installation. I would suspect a sticky thermostat, the fan is ECU controlled, the signal comes from an engine temperature sensor so always a chance the sensor is a tad sensitive but the thermostat is a good starting place. Testing one is simple if you have a thermometer. Remove it and before placing in a pan of water with the thermometer push open the bellows carefully with a thumb, insert the end of a length of cotton and start heating the water on the hob. Observe the thermometer and suspending the thermostat in the water it should drop off the cotton at the temperature indicated and normally stamped on the bottom. Continue to heat the water and at 100 degrees the bellows must be fully open. The temperature stamped is the 'crack open' temperature and it's difficult to spot as the initial opening is just a few throu. Hope that helps, please let us know what you find as its all a learning curve ;-).

Last edited by Spanner Juggler; 10/03/15 08:32 PM.

BR Colin
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Brand new Duratec Plus 4 in 2015.....or did you mean 2014? Before messing with the thermostat, I'd have a word with your dealer as its under warranty.


Jays
Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
Joined: Feb 2010
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Got a nagging feeling that the 'stat on the duratec is ECU controlled as well...

Simon at Mulfab


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Jays #258761 10/03/15 10:39 PM
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Jays
The car was registered in January 2015, built to Morgan specification which dealer bought because he was low on stock in Autumn 2014, told it was one of the last two Duratec cars built.

I do intend to consult the dealer, just wondered if it was normal for these cars. It is not actually overheating, just thought the fan seemed rather busy.

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I know of one car that was overheating due to a kinked hose...it is worth checking.


Jays
Former Morgan owner. Gone but hopefully not forgotten!
Joined: Jul 2011
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I have a 2011 Duratec Plus 4.
In stop start traffic, the cooling fan does come on at about 100c, I can watch the temperature gauge drop below 98c and the cooling fan will switch off.
I do not recall the cooling fan coming on whilst driving along.


Ian
2011 Plus 4
Wild Mogs Reims 2019, Goodwood 2018, Isle of Man 2017, Carried on to Caramulo" 2016

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