Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing tire wear patern, camber and toe-out

One of the key advantages of adding new camber plates is that you can make the two sides the same, regardless of you setting preference.

In the factory, the LHS is usually fitted by Bob, and the RHS by Jim - at least that's the impression measurement gives.

I believe Dave Rutherford's standard preference was 1 degree of -ve, and a fraction of toe (that's 'in'), which works for me.

cheers, Colin

What does Mark do?

Maybe Mark did my car? ;-)

Just confirmed my measurements;
Tou-out was half a degree, changed it to a fraction toe-in (12sec). I did make a difference to the driving. In tight corners the steering used to feel a bit un-linear. I thought it was the steering rack. At higher speeds (80mph plus) it was a bit nervous. Now everything feels more planted and steering is slightly heavier.

Camber is negative 1,8 degrees left side and 1,25 right-side
Cross-head and tubes look in top condition, I am the first owner, never hit a kerb or anything else.
Tbh, I am sure the car was like this from day one. I have always noticed the negative camber and the steering has not changed until today.

So question is; how did I end up with this camber. Is it possible that parts from different width card were used? Are there different front axels with a different KPI?

Maybe worth noting that my car started in the factory as a normal roadster, but I specified the wheels from the roadster sport (15" black spokes) Initially Morgan said "no problem" but later they came back with a "width related" issue and wanted more money for the conversion. I believe these wheels were later standard on a roadster, but maybe need a different configuration?

Anyone any ideas how this could have happened?

In the mean time I still enjoy driving the Morgan even with 1+ degrees neg-camber. Today even more than before because of the changed toe-in set-up. Hoping the Toe-in will also (to some degree) take care of the tire wear pattern issue.
My advice, get the spirit-levels and callipers out, you might be surprised.
Cheers J

J,

It sounds as if you have approached the resolution pragmatically.

The crossframes used to be made up on a jig and that should have prevented the variance in the camber; however handmade and blacksmiths' techniques prevail!

The camber variance could come from a pair of poorly made and/or mismatched bottom camber plates (the plate that attaches the kingpin to the crossframe. It is remotely possible that these are mismatched. A visual check with a torch and ruler might reveal something or confirm that it's not the source of your problem.