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Joined: Aug 2011
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JMc Offline OP
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My 2011 plus 4 has a very good heater but I can't get it to blow cool air.

When the heater switch is off and I turn the air on it comes out really hot.
What is the best way to bypass the water from the water pump straight back to the block bypassing the heater?

I noticed when they toured NZ that some v8 engined Morgan's had a fancy valve that did this.
As hot weather approaches in NZ I have a need for cool air around my legs. Thanks guys.


Johnny Mac.

2011 Ivory plus 4


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Is the bowden cable actually operating the business end I wonder?


Mark - No Longer driving
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Exactly my thoughts, look down in the near side footwell at the heater unit where the cable meets, the outer cable is held by a simple clip. I would first try and set your dash knob on full left (cold) and then with the outer cable retainer unclipped move the control and see if you can loose the heat, if you can pull out the slack and refasten the clip. You should get 5 clicks from one end position to the other as there are 6 holes in the mechanism for the sector to align with. Somewhere in the galleries is a photo I posted of the business end of the heater. Mine would not go on max heat until I adjusted it, not a hard job to do.


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Don't know how to copy photos but the picture I refer to is on page 10 of the galleries if you want to have a look, you can see the clip and the segment or if someone can help add the photo?


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What exactly is the Bowden cable Mark.
Is it the connection between the knob and the water cut off?
How do I access the heater on off control then?


Johnny Mac.

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It is a rigid wire that operates off a cam driven by the heater temperature knob.

This will operate a flap that feeds the fresh air either full fresh air or steers the air partially or fully through the heater matrix.

I don't think it alters a water valve? (but this is a Morgan)


Back of the instrument cluster the grey articulation on the left is the rear of the knob



Mark - No Longer driving
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Love
Originally Posted By milligoon
It is a rigid wire that operates off a cam driven by the heater temperature knob.

This will operate a flap that feeds the fresh air either full fresh air or steers the air partially or fully through the heater matrix.

I don't think it alters a water valve? (but this is a Morgan)


Back of the instrument cluster the grey articulation on the left is the rear of the knob



Mark, as you know how to do this could you please copy my photo from page 10 of the gallery of the heater end as that shows the cable and 'other' end, cheers. Sorry Mark, decided to have a play and seem to have managed it, not sure how though ;-)

Last edited by Spanner Juggler; 24/10/15 09:10 PM.

BR Colin
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Not sure if this will work as I am just guessing how to do it?


[img:left]http://[/img]


Last edited by Spanner Juggler; 24/10/15 09:09 PM.

BR Colin
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beat me to it I was looking in wrong gallery DOH!


Mark - No Longer driving
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Formerly known as Aldermog
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Originally Posted By JMc
My 2011 plus 4 has a very good heater but I can't get it to blow cool air. .....
I noticed when they toured NZ that some v8 engined Morgan's had a fancy valve that did this.


Indeed they do, a modern electronically controlled valve that allows the hot water flow to be properly adjusted...Tarka has A/C as well, so it is almost like a modern car in that hot air and A/C demists the car hood up very effectively.

On Aldermog I had the opposite problem, it never got properly hot. Removing the dash showed that the bowden cable outer incorrectly fitted so the inner couldn't move correctly. A simple adjustment gave two more "clicks" on the control and lots of hot air!


Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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