Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Trolley Jack for 2009 Plus 4

I do not disagree with you tmg513.
I would prefer not to use the diff. The other option is to jack up the cross member on either side. In my view using the diff is then the 'better' option.

You still can lift from the rear crossmember with a newer car....the rear valance fits over it but as long as you lift precisely where the crossmember is and use a protective pad, you will not damage the valance.

I agree with front jacking point, but not the rear as the Modern Morgan has a plastic rear valance. I use the Axle centre (diff) and then axle stands on the axles.

As first post Aluminium Racing Jack. and these for my axle stands.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161599166526?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and for my short axle stands

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281856320494?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And height blocks if needed for the Jack.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272043232687?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This rear jacking point confuses me too. Looking under my car I have three nuts and bolts holding the rear valance. Then I have a metal cross member in front of the screws about 2 inches wide across the car. Where do you put the jack? On the metal bit or on the plastic where the three screws go through to fix the valance?
A pic would be good if someone who knows can clarify where the jack should go and locate the exact point of the cross member.

Build yourself a jacking beam. The centre section in black is raised & rubber lined. The red & white stripes are the centre point. The nuts & bolts hold L shaped aluminium profiles to strengthen it. The two extra little black rectangles are locators - on the Roadster there are a couple of pegs underneath, but these are not strictly necessary.



The pad here is the centre point for the jack.



Even with the strengthening, the beam still bends slightly. The rear crossmember is wide - so plenty of space. On the Plus 4 the rear valance is deeper, and I just put the beam on it - the compression won't damage it because the beam spreads the load.
The raised section just buts up against three bolts which hold the rear valance in place.



This is my front beam when it was new.......
Note the cradles each end for the cross tube, the three buffers for the cross tube and the cushion for the towing eye.

Great idea - I made myself a front block for jacking up on the found profile cross member and this works a treat.
I'll have to make a rear one as per your pic.
Thanks most useful these pics.

Thanks. All noted

Thanks. All noted

I bought a low level trolley Jack from Halfrauds for about £30.

The one thing you must never do, is jack on a plain Z section. To this end - do not fail to supervise a tyre shop as they are among the worst at just stuffing in and lifting with a trolley jack. You might also need to make this point at MOT time too. I've seen many Morgans with bent and distorted Z sections over the years.

The Gomog article is right, but very lengthy for understanding the various strong and weak bits.