Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Electrical Problem

Disconnect your battery first before attempting to check the cables on the starter chances are you could short the terminals

Check your battery with a multimeter set to 20 on the DC scale (left hand side) and if its okay you should get a reading of around 12 -13. Then do as has been suggested. Report back please.

Many thanks guys. Simple and easy checks which I will carry out. Regarding the advice on using jump leads. Isn't using a booster pack the same thing? Phil

Booster pack replaces a suspect or low battery to give you enough oomph to try starting.
If you have a bad earth then that is what forms a poor circuit either causing high resistance and low power or a complete dead circuit.
A booster may help starting but he bad earth will remain and the problem recur and your battery on its own not be able to crank the engine enough.
Bad contacts/poor earth is a common electrical gremlin.
Long term, clean your battery terminals, earth points, protect with petroleum jelly.
Make sure securing bolts and earth cables are in good nick, clean everything or replace with new.
I used stainless bolts when changing my earth straps, petroleum jelly as well.
I HATE a non- starter and have always kept the ignition, battery,starter circuits in good nick. These are the more common causes of non-start.
Any problems were then usually fuel related.
That was for older cars without a multitude of sensors!!!

In my experience it's generally either the earth strap (as previously mentioned) or a failed cell in a battery. A failed cell or a dying battery (same thing really) can give enough juice for lights and things, but lacks the CCA (cranking amps or 'woof') to turn over the engine.

A booster pack is a handy and inexpensive thing to have knocking about, if you connect one and the car starts, then you know you've got a duff battery.

This is at the outer edge of my technical expertise.

sospan has covered what I would have replied well so won't repeat his great advice, the point about a jump lead from the battery to engine of course is you are bypassing the earths totally and if that fixes it you pretty much know that the issue is an earth one.

This is why (if ever I get around to it) when I change my dash a Volt meter will be one of the additions.

A voltmeter was standard 'approximately' 2000 to 2006 with the four small gauges in a row dash. I have one on my Roadster but I'm not entirely convinced it's accurate.

Depends where it's connected into the loom Dave!
I have one on the '93, standard fit.
Preferred the ammeter as was on the '76

Phil, all good advice above. I had problems with slow turnover on my '76. Cured with additional earth lead...

The voltmeter in my S1 Roadster barely moves whatever current is being drawn or put back. I'm having a new one fitted at my next service. A new one from MMC is only £29.95 including VAT and matches the original one in appearance.