Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Aero 8, 2012< Plus 8, SuperSports, Coupe & Aeromax Telegraph article

Not sure if this is else ware on the site but thought some of you may like a read
Telegraph newspaper

Hi Neil, it was linked in another thread but it never had one unique to this article - so thanks for starting one.

I found that an interesting read - thanks Neil.

BtG

BTW Hows that aero of yours? Do you ever get down to Mole Valley?

Another good read. Morgan really have had some good press of recent.

Boshly

Have just got the car back from RTCC had new pipes and sports gear linkage fitted. Was a little put off by mole valley giving me the wrong info on the hard top so tried a different dealer. I live in N London so it made very little difference between the 2 for location. Still trying to talk to some one who can help make the car more waterproof! may start a new thread to see if any one has good ideas.

Fair enough, not overly impressed with Mole Valley but Charles seems a nice guy.

Car sounds nice nice now I bet with new pipes

As for waterproofing, my series II is not exactly faultless but no leaks on the move and only if stationary in heavy rain. Sorry I have no pearls of wisdom but I'm sure Cereal or Mr_Tony will/can help. As may Aeroman seeing as he has had every iteration of Aero 8 to date

Good luck

BtG

Congratulations on your Exhaust and Quickshift... it makes such a difference... BTW what gear knob have you chosen? Using the standard gearknob on the shortened shifter still leaves you 1 inch taller than an aftermarket knob. The only downside is that if you have the original you'll need to get the adaptor for standard screw-on type gearknobs as the BMW is push-on. I found the original gear knob on shortened shift does not suit the leather well....

Also... what's up with your roof...??

My father has a MK1 roof with the wooden cross brace that attaches to the top of the windscreen. I have a later type easy up roof that mates to the rear of the chrome/stainless steel strop across the top of the windscreen.

Dad has some techniques to best seal the roof if it's a roof joint problem and general sealing around side windows (assuming the side windows are aligned properly).

He has just re-aligned my door window brackets to bring the quarterlights into correct allignment with the "A" pillar in order to better seal over the door. (a common problem, easily fixed!!)

Neither I or father have particular problems with our roofs anymore.

Best bet is to pop up to the GT3 racing at Silverstone and we can have a look at it.

We have had previous friends and customers with Aero's. Some of whom have manged to get upgrades from the factory depending on what model roof they have. It really depends on the lines/design of the roof you prefer and how waterproof you really want it to be. ;-)

Do tell me - I need to do this as mine are leaning out far enough that I can almost see daylight!

My main tip for avoiding leaks is to put a 'shower cap' on the car. I've used normal sheets, plastic wrap etc.

The main areas water comes into mine (original roof with ash bar at front) is around the point where the windows meet the roof and the rubber trim at the front by the a pillar.

covering this aea with a sheet is pretty effective. Certainly saved any wet inside whilst parked out in frankly tropical storm conditions in the south of france last summer..

On the move, I just ignore the odd drip, though I'm sure that maybe re-waterproofing the hood might help water roll off rather than soak through perhaps?

:-) can sort out both those issues... dad's Mk1 roof it fine and rareley needs to have the storm cover on. Sounds like this is sovlveable.. the water beeding on the roof can be sorted without additional waterproofing, just correct cleaning and conditioning. Dad had a similar problem on his 4/4 he uses daily.

As for your quarter light problems.. it depends on what series door inner you have, I expect you have similar to dad's. The general problem (on either) is that Morgan did not fit (but made suitable preparatory holes for) the lower window mechanism/frame bracing. Esentially over time the upper screws allow slight movement and the lower part of the mechanism ends up only bieng held straight by the inner door trim (however don't try to push the top of the "A" pillar back by hand as you won't move it).

In reality this is slightly more difficult than it sounds. :-)