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#374506 02/07/16 12:19 PM
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A silly question - but how on earth do you get the fixed and sliding perspex screens out of their extrusion channel to replace them? I've found a very helpful local perspex company that can make replacements (including replacing the handle pulls in exactly the same way) but i've pulled, bent and heated with a hair dryer and still no luck. I feel any more bending and pulling and they will crack (and i want them intact to use as a template). I have a 2010 4/4 - any advice gratefully accepted!

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could only get them out by breaking them on my 1994 car, but lucking GoMog has a pattern on the website. That will be too small for a long door car like yours.

PS I have two halves of Perspex still if someone wants them


JohnV6
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I would take measurements as best you can with the screen in place and then carefully break them out. It is likely that you won't end up with too many peices which can be glued together to form a template.
(Don't forget eye protection in case it splinters)

Last edited by Clock; 02/07/16 01:43 PM.
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Originally Posted By Clock
I would take measurements as best you can with the screen in place and then carefully break them out. It is likely that you won't end up with too many peices which can be glued together to form a template.
(Don't forget eye protection in case it splinters)


Breaking them is not a good idea and probably will not work, they are polycarbonate and very strong, not Perspex. I believe to remove you have to undone the screws holding the frame together and take apart. I would buy new runners as well. Good old Melvyn Rutter will have the sidesscrren Windows and runners. The polycarbonate can be ordered online on various thicknesses and cut with a special jig saw blade, but tricky to get a straight edge, can be finished off with a file.


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By the look of it just trying on mine the sliding portion push forward then curve none overlapping bit outwards - tease bottom and top out whilst sliding rearwards.

Careful not to chew up felt runner when refitting

My fixed one appears to be siliconed in place. May require a bit of harsh language and something to grip the window firmly with while pulling out, if sacrificing it why not drill a few holes and tie some string through it to act as a pulling handle?


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normally only the sliding one gets scratched.


JohnV6
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And if the problem is mild scratching, ie not too deep, Brasso works wonders.


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Interesting rear...it's on the list of fixes for me to do.

Last edited by Richard - Aus; 02/07/16 11:57 PM.

Richard
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On my 1996 Plus 4 they are acrylic, not polycarbonate.

I have replace a couple of the panels myself - I am fortunate to have a Varga panel saw, like a reduced size version of the things they use to cut sheet materials in B & Q. 15000 rpm and a tungsten carbide blade and stops and scales for an accurate cut.

I think that acrylic has an advantage over polycarbonate (a more recent material than classic Morgans) in that it is practical to polish it. Polycarbonate is stronger and, perhaps, flexes more so it is 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.



Last edited by plus4bassman; 03/07/16 01:18 AM.

Jack
+4 4 Seater T16 1996 Indigo Blue 'Mabel'
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Originally Posted By Richard - Aus
Interesting rear...it's on the list of fixes for me to do.
Originally Posted By Richard - Aus
Interesting rear...it's on the list of fixes for me to do.
To give yourself an interesting rear ???
I believe this thread relates to a different type of plastic surgery Richard, I'd stick to working on the car if I were you or it could get messy smile


Cheers John
2011 4/4 - "Elrond"
2007 Elfin C3 Clubman - “Gimli”
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