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Joined: Jan 2014
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Originally Posted By Gambalunga
I don't know if this still applies but I had heard that Morgan used the brake master cylinder from an early Mini that had front disks and rear drum brakes. On the Mini they developed a system with a valve that maintained a light pressure on (if I recall correctly) the drum brake cylinders to stop them retracting completely. This was intended to limit corrosion on the exposed cylinder when the piston retracted. On the Morgan they had apparently reversed the connections so that the rear brakes were actuated by the circuit originally intended for the front brakes on the Mini.

As I said I have no idea if this still applies to the 4 wheeler let alone the 3 wheeler.


The valves your referring to are called residual valves.

They are usually used in applications where the master cylinders are about on the same plane as the wheel cylinders.

As you said, they keep the pressure from bleeding off at the wheel cylinders. This keeps both the disc pads and drum shoes in closer proximity to the rotors/drums so a double pedal pump is not needed.

For disc fronts, they use a 2# residual valve and on rear drums they use a 10# residual valve.

In my street Willys street rod, I had Wilwood 4-piston calipers all around and I had to use 2# valves in both front and rear lines.

Last edited by Dan_Lockwood; 28/09/16 04:35 PM.

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Timothy, Abt 4,500, not a lot or enough to get rust and gook to freeze pistons.

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Really.
My first car was a 1958 Morris Minor and had been in the family for years. Doubt if it ever had more than a couple of fluid changes in its whole life. I really dont recall many problems with drum brake cylinders back in the day.

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I haven't used my m3w much in over a year but it was stored without the hand brake being engaged & moved every month a few inches forward & back.this past November i drained some of the brake fluid & topped it off with some new oil. Just now I noticed its heavy to push around, I did bleed out all the old oil & all is fine now.

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Originally Posted By Q8morgan
I haven't used my m3w much in over a year but it was stored without the hand brake being engaged & moved every month a few inches forward & back.this past November i drained some of the brake fluid & topped it off with some new oil. Just now I noticed its heavy to push around, I did bleed out all the old oil & all is fine now.


Q8, I hope you're just using the word "oil" as a generic term for the correct DOT spec'd brake fluid. OIL of course would be a BIG no no...

Last edited by Dan_Lockwood; 27/02/17 12:21 PM.

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If you have to get into the brake system, any reason not to flush and replace with DOT 5 silicone-based brake fluid? Unlike glycol-based fluids, Dot 5 doesn't absorb moisture (it's hydrophobic).

I run DOT 5 in my collector cars and no longer worry about corrosion and stuck brakes. I've never had any issues with it.

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M3w uses dot 4. I flushed it well with DOT 3... i use dot 3 with my hot rods & i never had an issue

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I would put in the recommended fluid. usually the rubber in the seals is formulated to work with a specific fluid. I know when silicone fluid first came out a lot of us in the Street Rod community used it, and it did not always work well.


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I certainly wouldn't use DOT5 unless I was absolutely sure that all the seals and hose linings were both compatible with it and untouched by any other fluids. I too have suffered from it in the past when it first became generally available.

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Agreed, and unless brake corrosion is a frequent issue, I'd stay with DOT4 LMA (Low Moisture Absorption) fluid.

I've only used DOT5 with a brake re-build when I could be sure all was clean and fresh. Where I've used it, I have not experienced any issues at all.

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