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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 306
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Slow response from companies is one of the main reasons I have a twitter account at all. Start spamming them with pictures of the broken stuff if you're not getting satisfactory results.

I get that they're not massive like GM or Honda, but the same issue identified across a bunch of frames, that's what a recall is for not a limited time contact us and hope for a fix sometime.

I had a company just not return my calls or emails at all, but as soon as I lit up their twitter, I got someone calling me real quick. It's a shame that's what it comes to in some situations but you have to do what the situation demands.

That said, I have gotten replies on twitter from Morgan and have had emails go entirely unanswered (until I tweeted, can someone check the email please.)

Either way good luck, and anyone doing DIY fixes on stuff like this, please post photos or youtube or something. I hope to never be in that situation as it would be heartbreaking I'm sure.

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Sorry to hear your new woe.

Dont take no for an answer!!!!

I did think that the triangulation would just push the stresses back towards the main chassis This is a very widespread problem, I personally checked every early 3W at the meets I went too. At each event we found cracks and in one case double shears on at least 30% of the 3W' attending. I am really not exagerating this. Its one of the reasons I gave up and sold mine. I am not convinced the chassis is at all fit for purpose. Apparantly it is just bog standard mild steel.
I am convinced there are a lot of 3W's out there with cracks that the owners are blissfully unaware of. Unless your on Talk Morgan how are you going to find out?
Well apart from the hard way. Someone could get killed and Morgan appear not to give a damm.

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Makes me wonder what it would cost to have a frame made in Reynolds 531 Manganese/Molybdenum alloy steel. It is light and very strong.


Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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I recall my mom or dad having a Peugeot bicycle frame made from that stuff. I wonder what grade they're using here.

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Originally Posted By Matty
Sorry to hear your new woe.

Dont take no for an answer!!!!

I did think that the triangulation would just push the stresses back towards the main chassis This is a very widespread problem, I personally checked every early 3W at the meets I went too. At each event we found cracks and in one case double shears on at least 30% of the 3W' attending. I am really not exagerating this. Its one of the reasons I gave up and sold mine. I am not convinced the chassis is at all fit for purpose. Apparantly it is just bog standard mild steel.
I am convinced there are a lot of 3W's out there with cracks that the owners are blissfully unaware of. Unless your on Talk Morgan how are you going to find out?
Well apart from the hard way. Someone could get killed and Morgan appear not to give a damm.



Matty,
Can you advice us on the best way how to check the chassis?


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Originally Posted By Peter J
Makes me wonder what it would cost to have a frame made in Reynolds 531 Manganese/Molybdenum alloy steel. It is light and very strong.


Add double butting where the wall thickness increases at stress junctions at each end and you further increase strength. This was the material of choice in custom bike frame manufacture in my youth.


Richard

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Originally Posted By Peter J
Makes me wonder what it would cost to have a frame made in Reynolds 531 Manganese/Molybdenum alloy steel. It is light and very strong.


True, but Reynolds 531 is not intrinsically that much lighter than other grades of steel - its superiority comes from the fact that it is ductile and suitable for double-butted and triple-butted designs. Car tubular chassis' typically use straight-gauge tubing - but no reason why a butted design couldn't be used. Caterham built a proof of concept - at not inconsiderable cost!

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1550657


Stuart
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Yes of course. Mark1 fingers and eyeball I am afraid.
Run your fingers around the upper( this is where all the cracks I found were) and lower wishbone mounting points. Now also do the same futher back near the main chassis.
When I found mine it just looked like a small sratch. However running a fingernail across the mark I relaised it was raised one one side!!!!
Get a big led torch in there also.
Good luck
Matt

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Thanks Guys. I appreciate your support and suggestions. I'll keep you posted. Have any of you had cracks repaired with welding and gusseting or? Just wondering if it works or if the cracks come back?

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