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Wales
by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Most Online1,063 Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 141
L - Learner Plates On
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OP
L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 141 |
I have read that just placing nipples on the top of the kingpins is next to useless as the oilway down through the kingpin is so small that grease cannot get through in sufficient quantity to do any good.
Ideally this oilway should be drilled out. Or replace with new kingpins that are now already drilled with a larger bore for this reason.
I think I'll continue to grease as normal...with the occasional prod of the oiler for good measure.
rgds Nick....just waiting for the sunshine...
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851 |
Mate, Don't bother with the oiler, it is crap from the 30's. Please dont prod that bloody oiler, it will deliver old contaminated engine oil straight to your kingpins and eventually your disk brake rotor (no brakes when you need it) it is obsolete engineering from the 30's. I have just fitted new kingpins and bushes and at the top of the new kingpin is a hole. Into this hole screws the top bolt, mine had been pre drilled with a hole for the old oiler! my dealer advised me to screw in a grease nipple, ( to seal up the said hole) and NOT to apply grease. It apparently just oozes out of the old oiler hole and congeals on the top area of the kingpin and just collects grit and debris form the road.
I am happy with just greasing the bushes at the lower end only and forgetting the top end.
If you are doing nothing, how do you know when you are finished?
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 141
L - Learner Plates On
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OP
L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 141 |
G'day Mate..is that a self portrait?? warm attire for your part of the world!! unless you're at 10,000 feet. Having considered both sides of this debate, I have eventually come to a conclusive decision...'don't prod that bloody oiler' wins the day. Sounds like the sort of sound advice my dad used to give me. Many thanks to all who contributed...I enjoyed it.
rgds Nick....just waiting for the sunshine...
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851 |
Gday NJR yes that's what I have to wear when driving the Morgan. In summer one only needs a wide brimmed hat with a drawstring. glad that the oiler thing is now going to rust out and fade away. H.F.S.M copied that Idea from Rolls Royce and they gave up using it over 50 yrs ago in favour of the good old grease gun system.using old engine oil was not the most brilliant idea. Peter
If you are doing nothing, how do you know when you are finished?
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851 |
Thank you all for your useful reply to my questions a la oiler system on front suspension. To update you, the complete system was renewed and new kingpins and bushes, shockers installed. To my amazement, the care still shimmy's violently side to side at about 40 mph? I did the conversion in the hope that the shimmy problem would be cured, but alas it is still there? The only part that was not renewed are the S/S blades and shims. When the shimmy starts each side of the front of the car jumps up and down from side to side and I have to brake quickly and it then stops. I am wondering if fitting a pair of brake reaction bars to the front crossheads may help in taming the wobble. They seem to be a fitting that one uses to eliminate the effects of harsh braking, which I never do anyway. The car is a 1973 4/4 2 seater, and I would be most interested if others with the same model have experienced the same problem? regards Peter
If you are doing nothing, how do you know when you are finished?
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 28,912 Likes: 354
Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
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Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 28,912 Likes: 354 |
First check the play in S/S blades and shims. Assuming that's OK, have a good look around the chassis where the triangular gusset plates are weled in place, just ahead of the bulkhead. My '76 suffered as yours - eventually traced to rust building between gusset plates and chassis pushing them apart, plus a crack in chassis (which may have stemmed from the St. Morgans Dance). Car now has the later, longer plates welded in. I also have brake reaction bars, don't know that they make a great deal of difference off the racetrack.
Good luck!
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly '11 MINI Countryman Cooper D All4 '90 LR 90 SW
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,290 Likes: 9
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,290 Likes: 9 |
Graham, I think that the brake reaction bars have made a big difference to my front end - but what about a steering damper, have you or anyone else fitted this and what difference does/would it make? Meabh
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,558 Likes: 5
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,558 Likes: 5 |
there was an article in April's Miscellany about the ideal set-up to avoid St.Morgans Dance, I would be tempted to point the finger at the damper blades as prime suspects, Mulfab do a thrust bearing conversion that is similar to set-up on current Mogs
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 28,912 Likes: 354
Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
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Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 28,912 Likes: 354 |
Yup, said check the blades first.
However, if the blades/shims are OK the age of the vehicle suggests potential chassis weakening... Mine's not the only one! At last year's Mallory track day I spoke to an owner of a '73 whose car had suffered in exactly the same way as mine. OK, UK weather and road treatment not renowned for cars being long lived (at least in those days) - Ozzie climate much better for that! 18 to 20 years since I passed through Taree - think the sun was shining...
Meabh, you may well be right. At the time my bars were fitted we were still trying to eliminate the source of the shakes! Best to that before modifying, methinks...
Cheers,
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly '11 MINI Countryman Cooper D All4 '90 LR 90 SW
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 851 |
Yup, said check the blades first.
However, if the blades/shims are OK the age of the vehicle suggests potential chassis weakening... Mine's not the only one! At last year's Mallory track day I spoke to an owner of a '73 whose car had suffered in exactly the same way as mine. OK, UK weather and road treatment not renowned for cars being long lived (at least in those days) - Ozzie climate much better for that! 18 to 20 years since I passed through Taree - think the sun was shining...
Meabh, you may well be right. At the time my bars were fitted we were still trying to eliminate the source of the shakes! Best to that before modifying, methinks...
Cheers,
thank Graham I have ordered new blades,shims and plates. Also reaction bars. I will put the car over my inspection pit and have a good look underneath for any cracks etc as well. If I find anything I will weld up and strengthen anything that is needed Peter PS the sun always shines in Taree, even today ....I was there shopping for food
If you are doing nothing, how do you know when you are finished?
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