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Formerly known as Aldermog
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Originally Posted By NeilM
Peter,

New Elms will be replacing the TPS in couple of weeks time as my 2009 Roadster has the same problem. Its not expensive, and I am sure that this is the cause of the erratic idle. I vigorously exercised mine and it cures the problem for a few days. I suspect the end resistive segments are either worn or dirty.

Neil


Neil,

tempted to get Tim to order a second one. Fitting isn't difficult... once the original putty cross head screws have been replaced with cap head set screws.

Peter


Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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Originally Posted By Frank 4x4
Originally Posted By DaveW
Perhaps Frank can oblige us with a photo.


Hello Dave,

I have come to this topic very late but following up on John V6's 'Missing Filter Cartridge' Topic I decided to take a look in my Series 2 2009 Filter Box.

I am sorry about the photo orientation but Photobucket insist on turning the photo between the Library and here.




Easier said than done. I have no idea how to get into the Series 2 Filter Box.

What I did find during that look see was that the Sunken Brass Nuts have pulled out of the base.

They obviously screw in but they can only be accessed by taking off the lid which I failed to find out how to do?



I can see that there is a Filter in the Box but I have no idea what has caused the Sunken Knuts to Pull Out of the base?

I lifted out one of the Domed Grommets buy there only seems to be Orange Filter showing inside.

At that point I gave up the search.

If anyone can help with this dilemma I would appreciate it.

Frank


On the series 2 roadster air filter box take out the two rubber plugs on the top. Take a long screw driver and undo the screws down inside. Undo the two screws that hold the hose across the top then lift of the box top. The Air filter is inside there and just lifts out to clean or replace. If you want to clean the top of the engine buy removing the base of the air filter box remove air intake pipes etc. and lift off. The engine top looks like this when air box removed. ( not the air induction filter ).

Regards Jim

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Last edited by jcmog; 09/10/14 07:15 PM.
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Originally Posted By jcmog
On the series 2 roadster air filter box take out the two rubber plugs on the top. Take a long screw driver and undo the screws down inside. Undo the two screws that hold the hose across the top then lift of the box top. The Air filter is inside there and just lifts out to clean or replace. If you want to clean the top of the engine buy removing the base of the air filter box remove air intake pipes etc. and lift off. The engine top looks like this when air box removed. ( not the air induction filter ).

Regards Jim


Thanks for the info and the Photo Jim. I will now have a 'Deeper Look into the Box.

Does anyone know the Name of the Sunken Nuts and where I could buy some slightly larger ones as I suspect that the plastic has stripped allowing the existing ones to pull out ?

Frank
thumbs


http://franks4x4-solograndetour.blogspot.co.uk/
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DaveW Offline OP
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Post Photobucket Reboot from March 2010:

The Series1 Roadster has a large trumpet air box on the nearside. The lower trumpet part, which channels air from the inverted louvres on the side of the bonnet is held in place by two hex headed sleeve bolts, which are quite obvious. These two bolts also fix the whole filter box to a bracket on the cam cover. So first remove the two bolts and slide the trumpet downwards and remove.

The two halves of the air box are held together by four cross head set screws. Two are visible above the hex bolts, but two are behind the filter box, and can only be accessed when the box is taken off the engine. Once the two hex headed sleeve bolts are out, all that remains is to slacken off the jubilee clip on the air trunking, and remove the electric plug on the airflow meter. This has a typical plastic wedge safety clip.

Once all this has been done, here's the back of the box, as removed. You can now see the two crosshead set screws which are normally hidden from view - about 2/3 down the photo.



I have a K&N filter (fitted by a PO) and the filter oil had migrated onto the back of the air box, so it was very scruffy round the back.
The next photo shows the K&N, which is an excellent fit. I've also cleaned up this half and removed the white manufacturer's sticker which was coming unstuck anyway. On the bottom lip is a small grey patch. This is where the gell coat had cracked. I repaired this with a blob of JB Weld, and blew it over with a spot of black paint (sparingly).



Inside the upper/outer half of the box, it's very, um, home made looking. Note the secondary gauze filter which is bonded into this half, at the exit to the air flow meter, and the use of a thin neoprene strip which acts as a seal. Unusually this is not my doing!!!!



I couldn't leave it like this, so out came the paint.....satin finish. The rudimentary neoprene seal is clearly visible.



And out came the K&N............



Now with the K&N back in place. The lower trumpet is close to the exhaust manifold, so I applied some insulation, and also fixed two washers with double sided tape, as the holes were getting 'chavelled' by the studs. One washer is visible, but the other is concealed behind one of the box fixing mouldings.



Here's the upper/outer part of the air box. The hot water tube from the top hose passes right under this in a contoured groove. So there will be significant heat sink into the air box. In order to reduce this, I've applied more reflective insulation along this channel.



And finally re-assembled:




The two halves fit together without a flange, and it's the neoprene seal which fits against the air filter element to provide the seal. The four setscrew fixings hold it square.

As a final note, this is how the engine looks with the filter out of the way:



You can see that the grey HT lead covers are a bit on the short side, so that's another job for the future. The screwdriver is just visible in the airflow trunking Jubilee clip, and the airbox fixing bracket is the gold oblong bracket with two studs.



More to follow >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


DaveW
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'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Post Photobucket Reboot from March 2010:

I should have started this post with a picture of the installation, so better late than never!!!
The sticker is the K&N 'leave alone' warning.
The two hex mounting sleeve bolts are obvious.
The two crosshead screws on the outside are just visible as bright dots at the top of the photo.



I'm pondering the gauze mesh in the neck of the filter housing just before the airflow meter. This must restrict flow slightly, but getting it out would be very difficult, and would leave a rough edged hole which might just be worse, so I'll leave it alone for now.

More to follow >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


DaveW
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Post Photobucket Reboot from March 2010:

A brief update. The K&N has a reference number on the side: 33-2210.

See:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2210
It fits Mondeo & London Taxi.

I looked again at the gauze filter, but it's a sort of honeycombe mesh, so I've drawn a line under further interference.

I did though, sand the inside surface smooth after the airflow meter where it joins the rubber hose. Then having masked the airflow meter, I painted the inside surface. The airflow meter has a neoprene gasket by the way which looks like 3mm standard density.............

But having thought more about the trumpet, I decided to add some more Reflect-a-Cool, because the trumpet is close to the exhaust manifiold. The green fibreglass is visible here as I hadn't painted this last time. I had to remove the part sticker so here it is for reference.





So out came the paint again........
Looks much better.



thumbs


DaveW
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Does the K&N filter make any difference to performance or noise?

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On mine it is quieter as MMC missed putting in an air filter.
My runs lean at times & I know DaveW uses the standard filter for the MOT.


JohnV6
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There has always been lots of debate over K&N filters, I've seen some tests where with normal contamination they actually reduced airflow, and over oiling has been suspected to contaminate the MAF sensor

But, you 'pays your money & it buys your own personal piece of snake oil'


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I'm using the standard filter all the time now, because I'm not happy running with a lambda on the weak threshold.

I did also have to clean the MAF when air changed filters. It was very oily/grimy.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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