Compensator Update!!
Had a big run out around the Lake District on Sunday and all is good....or dare I say great!!
You wanted a bit more information and photos, about how I did the compensator repair - so here you go....
I generally followed Phil Bleazeys excellent engine removal instructions, with the following variations/points to note:
1. I raised the car up onto wheel ramps - I used two good trolley jacks to first lift the rear, and then the front onto the ramps
2. The front wheel could swivel ok to remove the steering rack while on the ramp
3. The car was stable when the rack was removed - the front wheels didn't rotate or move unless I swivelled them deliberately
4. I didn't find it necessary to cut holes in the footwells to access the bell housing bolts. Unbolting the rubber engine mounts from the chassis enabled the engine to be moved (slightly) to give a bit more room to get at the bolts with a 5/16" Whitworth socket, on a knuckle joint and a long extension
5. The bell housing bolt on the passenger side of the tunnel is a bugger to get at and the drivers side (RHD) is even worse as you've got the petrol and brake line to contend with
6. There are 2 bell housing bolts on the drivers side in the tunnel. The upper one is accessible from above, but you'll need to clear the wiring, etc. out of the way
7. I found the compensator bolts impossible to undo at first. They are secured with Loctite 243. I needed to buy a quality set of allen key sockets and a heat gun. Both were needed to remove the bolts - all 8 of them!!
An engine crane purchased from Machine Mart made engine removal and working on the compensator a lot easier than it could have been. However, a real godsend was the S&S engine lifting bracket I was given by a friend. Apparently every engine arrives at Morgan with one...so speak to your dealer or the factory to see if can get one as they must have loads knocking around.....
I very strongly recommend getting the new bolts for the Compensator and also the difficult to access bell housing bolts. Maybe also new clutch bolts - or a new clutch if required..... not cheap though
The spigot bearing should really be replaced. Its tiny and costs over £30. I found a cool method of removing the old bearing on YouTube. It involves pushing some wet kitchen towel into the bearing hole with your finger and then whacking a suitably sized pin into the hole with a hammer. It worked very well for me!!
Remember to put the new spigot bearing in the correct way round, with the seal on the outer face!!
The flywheel bolts can be re-used (they are expensive to replace) - I ordered a set, but the wrong ones were delivered so re-used the old ones and got a refund
I was kindly given some exploded diagrams of the transmission system and also instructions on re-assembling the compensator - all below for your future reference
