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Joined: Jul 2013
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Originally Posted By R1NGA

Maybe it just needs to be driven for 4 days solid in biblical-level rain storms and it will be sorted....!


Hopefully we won't have to go through that again...

Re the burning rubber, did this go away on it's own or was it after you had the drivebelt tightened?


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Originally Posted By Chris99
Originally Posted By R1NGA

Maybe it just needs to be driven for 4 days solid in biblical-level rain storms and it will be sorted....!


Hopefully we won't have to go through that again...

Re the burning rubber, did this go away on it's own or was it after you had the drivebelt tightened?



Interesting question, as I suspect the rain helped keep the smell suppressed somewhat, so difficult to say. But it might easily have been the belt tighten, as it also cured some very odd clonks when going over some nasty bumps.

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Also had the "burning" smell go away,about four hundred miles after the new compensator fitted.

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The clonks, or the curing of them, was one of the reassuring things which the dealer did to make my purchase seem more worthwhile. He didn't say that the clonks would return as soon as the belt went slack or that continuing to run the belt tight enough to stop them would wreck the rear wheel sprocket.
What the clonks are, in reality, caused by is the winding up of the NVH kit which, when you go over a bump, unwinds suddenly to bring the bevel box down with a clonk against the chassis. Tightening the belt pulls the bevel box back and up at the front and so relieves the problem but only temporarily.


2013 M3W 1960 Velocette Venom and the Landrovardo!
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Originally Posted By Phil Bleazey
What the clonks are, in reality, caused by is the winding up of the NVH kit which, when you go over a bump, unwinds suddenly to bring the bevel box down with a clonk against the chassis. Tightening the belt pulls the bevel box back and up at the front and so relieves the problem but only temporarily.


Mine is pre NVH but tightening the drive belt seems to have cured the recent clonks smile

They only occurred at 3,000 rpm and felt "lighter" than the bevel box knocking which still occurs very occasionally when going on/off power.


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3000 rpm is the speed at which the front of the bevel box starts to oscillate up and down at a frequency dictated by which gear you are in. Maybe something to do with that?


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Phil how are your eliplical compensator cush rubbers holding out - any news on if you're going into production?

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Some setbacks with poor quality material from suppliers. All this has to be road tested and in real time so it is easy to waste time on the wrong stuff. I am sure that I have it on the run now and should have news of kits available in the next few weeks. Watch this space, as they say.


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Thanks for the update - appreciated

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I have been talking to Morgan about replacement as I have a loud knocking noise when at idle. They are confirming that the compensator should be replaced and are sorting a quote, what have people been asked to pay as I feel a bit agreived to be paying full costs for this work!
Also seeing that the replacements are breaking up what on earth do you do?

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